2016-17 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK) Part 2

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
What is the ID of the current clay liner? Was the option of installing an insulated liner in the chimney discussed? If there is not enough room did you ask the company if the clay liner could be busted out?

I don't know what you mean by ID. Yeah we discuss all the different options and the most cost effective Way is to run the woodstove Is to punch a hole through the roof and run the class a chimney. If any other work like the Clay flu liners and busting them out I would have to run two flex liners insulated, it would not be worth it when I could just run one class a and I have to pay all this extra labor for busting out the Clay flu. I can do the work of punching a hole through my roof and run in the class and the black pipe with a buddy of mine no problem.

The company that inspected my masonry chimney said because of the angle the black pipe is going into the chimney it would be very difficult to get a oval liner in there. A six-inch non-insulated liner would fit in but he stated that I would need to sign off from any liability plus it still does me no good because it's not going to make my flu draft better. if I used a non-insulated liner any poured the mix I still wouldn't have the inch clearance around the actual liner.
 
Last edited:
ID = Inside Dimensions. A straight up install with good quality class A pipe will be superior, so not trying to talk you out of doing that. For best performance use double-wall stove pipe to connect the stove to the ceiling support box.
 
ID = Inside Dimensions. A straight up install with good quality class A pipe will be superior, so not trying to talk you out of doing that. For best performance use double-wall stove pipe to connect the stove to the ceiling support box.


Lol got it. 7x11 are the I.D. Yea this one is gonna go straight up double wall, then class a.
 
I did some checking and found some big number differences:

Ashford 30.1
Sales literature BTUs 11,940-35,821
Manual numbers 6,107-28,636

Ashford 20:
Sales literature BTUs 11,912-29,780
Manual numbers 8,822-27,550

Princess
Sales Literature BTUs 12,528-37,587
Manual numbers 12,000-35,600

Interesting comparisons. I think the "manual" numbers are closer to the truth than the sales as the sales numbers are connected to burn times. I also believe the Manual numbers are attached to keeping within the EPA limits, using EPA fuel loads. This is my guess. Could be wrong here.

The ashford 30.1 has the best "turn down" by far. This is my experience. It also has 3/4 the output of the princess.
The princess has a sizable greater heat output and a slightly bigger firebox but the turndown is double the output of the Ashford 30.1.

For my situation, it is NOT the maximum BTU output that is the more important number (although is is of importance to be sure) but the minimum BTU number. If you live in a colder climate or have a poorly insulated or very large house this might be reversed.

YES, how low/slow a stove can go is dependent on the venting system.

Any comments?


I don't remember if was here in this thread or another thread that the point of the 6,107 btu/h was discussed, and looks like it can be a typo/misprint in the manual. After all it make sense. That figure is less than a pound p/h. If is true, people with hardwood that can load 60 pound in there, will have an average of 70 hrs burn in low? I never heard somebody claiming those burn time not even with the KING.

I think in that thread, BKVP said that he will look into it, cause something was not right with those numbers.
 
Will an oval pipe work?
 
I don't remember if was here in this thread or another thread that the point of the 6,107 btu/h was discussed, and looks like it can be a typo/misprint in the manual. After all it make sense. That figure is less than a pound p/h. If is true, people with hardwood that can load 60 pound in there, will have an average of 70 hrs burn in low? I never heard somebody claiming those burn time not even with the KING.

I think in that thread, BKVP said that he will look into it, cause something was not right with those numbers.

The low number may have been achieved on coniferous wood?
 
The low number may have been achieved on coniferous wood?
I dout it. I think we will have to wait for BKVP and see if is a typo or not. I have been busy but possibly tonight I am going to try to find the thread. Looks like i took it away from my watch list.
 
If it is a typo, it has been there for a long time. You would think it would have been revised by now. I got the numbers from the website.
 
If it is a typo, it has been there for a long time. You would think it would have been revised by now. I got the numbers from the website.

The thread that this was going on is about maybe 2-3 weeks old. The member talking about it downloaded the info straight from BK that day. This is not an old thread, was recently.
 
65.6lbs not counting the two small fillers.::-)
IMG_4835.JPG
 
Last edited by a moderator:
65.6lbs not counting the two small fillers.::-)
View attachment 195542
Very nice! I have began to rethink the way I split wood for this stove.The wood I had on hand prior to getting this stove was split fairly small...all of the new stuff is considerably larger...it sure lasts longer...
 
What is the ID of the current clay liner? Was the option of installing an insulated liner in the chimney discussed? If there is not enough room did you ask the company if the clay liner could be busted out?
Niko did the right thing and started a separate thread I think 2 weeks ago for his 2nd BK. Bhollar gave some great advice and niko had a chimney guy come out and inspect.
 
Good morning. We are not currently BK owners but are giving it some serious consideration (separate thread started), but I had a quick question that I thought I'd post here.

I've been reading the online manual for the Princess Insert but now that I'm looking for information about the power cord I can't seem to locate it. Can it be routed to either side upon installation, or it it fixed?

Thanks.
 
Good morning. We are not currently BK owners but are giving it some serious consideration (separate thread started), but I had a quick question that I thought I'd post here.

I've been reading the online manual for the Princess Insert but now that I'm looking for information about the power cord I can't seem to locate it. Can it be routed to either side upon installation, or it it fixed?

Thanks.

It's on the back of the unit but it's long enough to reach either side.

I drilled a 1/2" hole in a mortar line in my fireplace masonry, and ran a piece of BX 14/2 straight from the box to the fireplace, and put a regular metal handybox with cover on it in the fireplace. It was a lot less masonry than making a hole for a box- and when I sell the house to someone who knows (as everyone around here seems to) that fireplaces are safe and warm but stoves burn your house down- it won't be a project to take the electrical line back out of the fireplace.

(On a related note, remind me to quit splitting and stacking wood before that happens...)

I don't use the fan much anymore anyway, only when it is very cold and I am "catching up".
 
It's on the back of the unit but it's long enough to reach either side.

I drilled a 1/2" hole in a mortar line in my fireplace masonry, and ran a piece of BX 14/2 straight from the box to the fireplace, and put a regular metal handybox with cover on it in the fireplace. It was a lot less masonry than making a hole for a box- and when I sell the house to someone who knows (as everyone around here seems to) that fireplaces are safe and warm but stoves burn your house down- it won't be a project to take the electrical line back out of the fireplace.

(On a related note, remind me to quit splitting and stacking wood before that happens...)

I don't use the fan much anymore anyway, only when it is very cold and I am "catching up".


Thanks for that information. I couldn't find any picture of its location in either manual current or old (we're considering a new old insert). All I found was the warning not to route it under or in front of the stove. Our outlet is on the right.

I think by "talking," so I'll ask more questions of you later if you don't mind.

Thank you.
 
Thanks for that information. I couldn't find any picture of its location in either manual current or old (we're considering a new old insert). All I found was the warning not to route it under or in front of the stove. Our outlet is on the right.

I think by "talking," so I'll ask more questions of you later if you don't mind.

Thank you.

I'll be around. There's a few of us PI owners lurking around this thread.
 
Page 41 in the manual my cord is on the leftside panel.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0151.PNG
    IMG_0151.PNG
    43.8 KB · Views: 156
Getting all set up for the vinegar bath and reading Woodstock's guidance since bk's guidance on this is oddly missing. Woodstock wants you to perform a vinegar wash 2-3 times per season! Holy heck! Woodstock is not dumb, they have made some dang fine stoves. Clean and efficient for many years. Putting together my shopping list for the vinegar bath I'm at 20$ plus my time and including the 6$ gasket. That's over 10% of the cost of a brand new cat for each vinegar cleaning.

I found a nice stainless steel pan to boil the cat in the kitchen. Think I'll use the turkey fryer burner in the shop and take photos for you folks. Hope it works!
 
Page 41 in the manual my cord is on the leftside panel.

Thank you. That diagram was not obvious to me, but after getting on a larger screen and knowing what I was looking it, I could see it. I think in this area I am spoiled by my current insert because we got to choose the routing of the cord. We can make the left work. It's just not our preference (kind of like the door hinges).
 
Getting all set up for the vinegar bath and reading Woodstock's guidance since bk's guidance on this is oddly missing. Woodstock wants you to perform a vinegar wash 2-3 times per season! Holy heck! Woodstock is not dumb, they have made some dang fine stoves. Clean and efficient for many years. Putting together my shopping list for the vinegar bath I'm at 20$ plus my time and including the 6$ gasket. That's over 10% of the cost of a brand new cat for each vinegar cleaning.

I found a nice stainless steel pan to boil the cat in the kitchen. Think I'll use the turkey fryer burner in the shop and take photos for you folks. Hope it works!

I'm still learning how to work this forum, and I'm not so advanced as to do screenshots. I did happen to see a cleaning procedure in an old BK manual. I don't think it's from their current cat manufacturer, though, but I'll try to link to it.

https://www.blazeking.com/PDF/manuals/old/OM-PI1010A E V1.05 REVISED.pdf

It's on page 34 and 35.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Highbeam
If it is a typo, it has been there for a long time. You would think it would have been revised by now. I got the numbers from the website.

BKVP's first thought was that the 6,000 btu/hr low burn rate was a typo by the EPA but he said he would look into it and get back to us with a real explanation. I don't see how it could be an EPA typo considering the low burn 6,000 btu spec is listed in Blaze King's company literature as well. I can only imagine this figure is from a specific test. I don't think it means you can load the stove full of high btu wood and expect to burn from light-off for 40 hours! Obviously, the stove needs to come up to full temp before it can be shut down to 6,000 btu/hr and this number wouldn't be achievable if the firebox was packed to the gills with high btu wood.

What is of interest to me is whether the low btu test results are useful for comparing different Blaze King stove models or whether they are test anomalies. I am in the camp that finds the low burn rate more important that the max burn rate because during typical heating season weather my cabin often only needs around 7000 Btu/hr. to MAINTAIN comfy temps once the structure has been brought up to that temperature. I know this because it will typically maintain comfort with 2000W of electric resistance heat (which is equal to ~7000 Btu). Of course if it's colder or windy I need more Btu's and the max Btu potential is important to bring a cold structure up to comfort quickly.
 
When a load is first burned a lot of easily gassified cat burnable stuff comes out of the wood. About ~5 hours into the burn the Ashford can be turned down to a very very low level then the stove top will slowly cool to 200F, the stove top thermometer just forward of the cat thermometer. The cat thermometer will remain in the active zone down to ~170 stovetop but I don't like to run it lower (below 200) as the top of the flue stack might drop below condensing and get gooked up. Under these conditions, the corner of the stove top can be touched without getting burned. The BTU production is phenomenally low.
 
Getting all set up for the vinegar bath and reading Woodstock's guidance since bk's guidance on this is oddly missing. Woodstock wants you to perform a vinegar wash 2-3 times per season! Holy heck! Woodstock is not dumb, they have made some dang fine stoves. Clean and efficient for many years. Putting together my shopping list for the vinegar bath I'm at 20$ plus my time and including the 6$ gasket. That's over 10% of the cost of a brand new cat for each vinegar cleaning.

I found a nice stainless steel pan to boil the cat in the kitchen. Think I'll use the turkey fryer burner in the shop and take photos for you folks. Hope it works!
Really, there's only a very small number on Woodstock owners on here. Any idea just how well their cats actually hold up over time?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.