2018-19 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 2 (Everything BK)

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How much should I expect to pay for a new cat when I need one?
I’m new to a catalytic stove
While actual combustor/catalytic coated elements have remained relatively stable in pricing, the two precious metal (palladium and platinum) have both seen dramatic price increases. Depending upon model of stove, size or cell per square inch etc, you can pay as little as $88 to $300.

Try www.firecatcombustors.com to see actual pricing by model. There are other on line resellers as well.
 
How much should I expect to pay for a new cat when I need one?
I’m new to a catalytic stove

For a practical datapoint, my replacement cat from firecat (the OEM cat manufacturer) for my princess stove, was 186$ shipped from their amazon outlet. Very easy to change out.
 
depends on which model you have, my ashford's cat I just ordered is 259.99 from firecat.
edit; posted to late.
 
How much should I expect to pay for a new cat when I need one?
I’m new to a catalytic stove
If its a new BK stove your cat is pro rated warrantied for 10years, after that you'll have to order one online, I just did an order this weekend - paid 292.00 with shipping, it will be here by the end of the week.
 
If its a new BK stove your cat is pro rated warrantied for 10years, after that you'll have to order one online, I just did an order this weekend - paid 292.00 with shipping, it will be here by the end of the week.
Did you order yours right off of the firecat website Kenny?
 
While actual combustor/catalytic coated elements have remained relatively stable in pricing, the two precious metal (palladium and platinum) have both seen dramatic price increases.

Palladium, yeah. But if you find somebody that’s paying more for platinum than they have in the last five years though, let me know!;)
 
So to burn off the black deposits on the glass... do logs need to be placed close to the glass? It won’t for the life of me come off by burning.


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So to burn off the black deposits on the glass... do logs need to be placed close to the glass? It won’t for the life of me come off by burning.


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In my experience with the princess, you’ll never burn it off. Razor blade to scrape off the bark is best.
 
So to burn off the black deposits on the glass... do logs need to be placed close to the glass? It won’t for the life of me come off by burning.


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If I do a real hot burn, not just char the wood, and burn the rest of the load around 3 o'clock on the dial I can clean the glass with just a little tiny creosote on the corners.
Thing is that sometimes all that heat is not desired.
 
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If I do a real hot burn, not just char the wood, and burn the rest of the load around 3 o'clock on the dial I can clean the glass with just a little tiny creosote on the corners.
Thing is that sometimes all that heat is not desired.

I must have partially wet wood. My glass large black patches on it. I had to manually get it off.


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Do people really wake up in the night to reload there stoves?

Never, never did with my 2.2 cubic foot Lopi either. I just loaded that stove later. I loaded my stove for tonight around 8:30.
 
Do people really wake up in the night to reload there stoves?

Didn't always used to even when we had short-burning smoke dragons. The goals were to stop the pipes freezing and have banked coals left over for the morning fire, not to keep it 70 in the house all the time. Having coals meant you had to bank them instead of burning the stove if you weren't going to be back before the stove's max burn time rolled around.

Technology has made life a lot more comfortable, and a lot more silly. It wasn't always a crisis if you woke up and it was 40 in the house.

I remember always setting the faucets to drip before bed. :)
 
Didn't always used to even when we had short-burning smoke dragons. The goals were to stop the pipes freezing and have banked coals left over for the morning fire, not to keep it 70 in the house all the time. Having coals meant you had to bank them instead of burning the stove if you weren't going to be back before the stove's max burn time rolled around.

Technology has made life a lot more comfortable, and a lot more silly. It wasn't always a crisis if you woke up and it was 40 in the house.

I remember always setting the faucets to drip before bed. :)

You're lucky you had faucets to drip! (Begin Monty Python skit here...) We used a galvanized pail to smash the ice in the well to get a bucket of water to wash with!
 
Anybody know how to keep the door latch on the ashford 30 from getting too tight. A couple weeks ago it got so tight it was hard to open and I loosened the nut a little. It helped but it worked back tight again. I have a load in it so won’t be able to open it until tomorrow. Last time I looked at it it seemed the bolt was turning with the handle is that correct? Thanks
 
So to burn off the black deposits on the glass... do logs need to be placed close to the glass? It won’t for the life of me come off by burning.
I'm burning Ashfords, so maybe different than your Princess, but the only time I get black on the glass is when I stack the logs too close to the glass. My stoves do great with 18" splits loaded N/S, when I load them with a 20" split I get a big black splotch right where that split sat.
 
I'm burning Ashfords, so maybe different than your Princess, but the only time I get black on the glass is when I stack the logs too close to the glass. My stoves do great with 18" splits loaded N/S, when I load them with a 20" split I get a big black splotch right where that split sat.
You are running your Ashfords at a steady strong pace and a 12hr cycle which helps keep the glass clean. Many are running their stoves on longer refill cycles. When run low and slow the glass gets black. Tis the nature of the beast. When the firebox is full of smoke that the cat is slowly chewing through the glass is going to get sooted up.
 
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You are running your Ashfords at a steady strong pace and a 12hr cycle which helps keep the glass clean. Many are running their stoves on longer refill cycles. When run low and slow the glass gets black.
I run ONE of the Ashfords on steady 12hr reloads, in the main part of the house. But the other in the newer wing has always run 24 hour reloads in winter, and 36 hours in shoulder. The one running the longer cycles does usually have glaze in the lower corners of the window, the one running 12 hour loads stays totally clean, unless I load too close to the glass.

Point being, if he is trying to burn it clean, run a hot load or two with nothing within 2" of the glass.
 
The gases coming out of the ends of splits aimed at the glass on a N/S load is a major source of crunked up glass. Gases hitting the cooler glass. Before they can turn up and ignite.
 
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The gases coming out of the ends of splits aimed at the glass on a N/S load is a major source of crunked up glass. Gases hitting the cooler glass. before they can turn up and ignite.
Hah... never thought of that! I just figured it was splits being too close to the glass are interrupting the air wash.

Somehow, I just uncovered a stack of six cords that's all cut to 20" length. Must have been cut for my Jotul, which probably means it's close to 4 years old. When loaded into the Ashford, a lot of those splits are 1/8" to 1/2" from the glass, makes for a lot of very careful door closures.
 
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