2020-21 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)
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The cat thermo are NOT scientific instruments. In fact, if someone (all you engineers) designed an accurate thermometer, you can own the market. Within a couple of days, the activity will reduce. The thermostat control peak temps.
I wolda agreed with you for the last couple of years..
But my Auber went whacky, so I ordered a new probe from them, new one was about 300 deg. Different from the other new one I had..
Several calls to their # that rings in some 3rd world country left me pretty pissed off..
So I went back to the BK probe for the King, and the Princess..
I believe the actual meter reads ok, the probes are the problem (china made). I have burnt through few of them on my VC yet never went over 1800*F. The probe is supposed to be good to 2000. All three went wonky in terms of temps and i knew the tips were no longer good.
if your meter with a new probe read 300 off then maybe it was not set or calibrated right.
First overnight burn in the new Princess. Started the stove around 4:00pm, had a nice bed of coals by 6:30, loaded it to about 3/4 capacity with dry oak slab wood. About 10-12 minutes to a very good burning fire and started turning thermo down to find low and slow burn setting. By 8pm, no visible flame, lots of cat glow, cat indicator just past the end of active zone. It stayed that way all night( had to get up and check on it a few times). 5:00 am, same thing. Opened the bypass and thermo, gave it a few minutes, stirred up the coals, repeat procedure. This could be the beginning of a great relationship. LOL
So not just overnight but 13 hours on 3/4 load of slab wood. Wait until you pack it full with actual firewood! The thicker splits slow down the release of smoke for more control and a lower possible burn rate. My splits have gotten bigger every year until we’re up near 6” now.
If you have those big dogs you’ll need more little guys to fill around him to get maximum fuel charge. Much bigger than 6” and I have a hard time getting two rows in. A variety of sizes helps but on average, bigger dry splits win.
Bullyboy
Burning Hunk
I have some huge knotty pieces of maple that have been seasoning for 3 yrs now. they split in all different shapes and sizes twisting and turning. I have quite a few that I know are going to be one log loads on hot coals. I'm very anxious to see how it goes.
Bullyboy
Burning Hunk
I have a question about the door glass gasket on the Ashford 30. Is there just a rope type gasket or is there some sort of epoxy as well? The glass seems very solid. No play at all. The reason I'm asking is because I'm afraid I might of gotten carried away cleaning the glass edges and I can feel a slight groove or lip along the bottom edge between the glass and what I assume is a U shape holder. Its possible that it should be like that all the way around and it's just caked with creosote. Something I should be worried about?
Thats how you test the window gasket, you see if you can wiggle it, if you have no play in it then you should be good to go.
My splits have been getting bigger too. This will be my seventh winter with an Ashford 30. I was burning some 8x8 timber scraps of Doug Fir and Spruce last winter and they were really nice on nights that weren't too cold.
When I see big ugly splits coming off the delivery truck now I just smile, stack them where they fall the first year, leave them, and then when restacking try to set them up for November or March burning after two years of seasoning. They are just wonderful at the deep ends of shoulder seasons.
Agree with @kennyp2339 , if the glass is tight in an Ashford 30 you should be good to go.
When I see big ugly splits coming off the delivery truck now I just smile, stack them where they fall the first year, leave them, and then when restacking try to set them up for November or March burning after two years of seasoning. They are just wonderful at the deep ends of shoulder seasons.
Agree with @kennyp2339 , if the glass is tight in an Ashford 30 you should be good to go.
How are you measuring these? In the past I’ve always split to “palm size” Er.. 4 inches? Basically I can grab it by the end with one hand and handle it.
help me out with the proper measure technique? I’m not worried my splits are gonna be too small for the king this year.
secondly, question for you and the class, what moisture content does the BK like? I just went through my stacks. I’m testing between 14 and 22 percent on a fresh split face depending on where it is in the pile and how big the split is
Pretty sure we all measure the same way, the average dimension on the butt end. My splits have grown until they’re pretty square and 6” across. The little 4” stuff dries faster and starts faster but also off gasses faster due to all of the extra surface area per charge.
Fresh Splits at 70 degrees under 20% is what you’re aiming for. There’s still some time left but 22% is not too far off. I’d burn it.
@Dustin I find that my princess really likes wood in the 16-18% range, but maybe my meter is off to (cheapo big box store) The idea of getting the wood down the driest as possible is because I tend to heat with the cat vs flames in the fire box, only on the coldest day do I adjust the air to get candle like flickering flames in the stove box, the rest of the time the stove box is black and essentially smoldering (of course I do the whole establish a fire with the air on high for 20-30min before closing the t-stat control down to my lowest before stall setting)
As far as big splits. I've increased my split size over the years to, I just have to watch wood species, oak in my part of the world takes forever and a day to dry out well (3 years for me) so I'm mindful about not going over the 4-5" diameter size, but maple and ash, are generally bigger now, and since this year I'm sourcing all my firewood wood for the 23-24 season - the majority will be green & white ash, so those splits are going to huge, 6+" where I can.
As far as big splits. I've increased my split size over the years to, I just have to watch wood species, oak in my part of the world takes forever and a day to dry out well (3 years for me) so I'm mindful about not going over the 4-5" diameter size, but maple and ash, are generally bigger now, and since this year I'm sourcing all my firewood wood for the 23-24 season - the majority will be green & white ash, so those splits are going to huge, 6+" where I can.
Thanks dudes.
The stove goes in today! Installer will be here shortly. I’ll post some pics in the hearth build thread I made awhile back.
Now, I’m chomping at the bit to burn. Just looked at the forecast. Won’t be firing up for some time. Still going to be around 70-75 here in NW Oregon
The stove goes in today! Installer will be here shortly. I’ll post some pics in the hearth build thread I made awhile back.
Now, I’m chomping at the bit to burn. Just looked at the forecast. Won’t be firing up for some time. Still going to be around 70-75 here in NW Oregon
Same here, 80 outside for the next two days but then rain and cool.
With a new stove, I would suggest you burn it right away so that you can open windows and vent out any chemical stink that may occur. Also, verify it’s working right before winter.
Hi. I'm looking for a wood stove to heat a three season room in Canada. It will often be fired up when the room is at or just below freezing. I'm considering the Supreme NOVO 24 but the Blaze King 24.1 has caught my eye. Any reason to go with the BK unit over the Supreme?
That's their new boxer stove.
Boxer 24 - Blaze King
The BX24 Boxer is very clean and efficient. Performance is balanced to deliver a greater amount of radiant heat through the large glass door. The BX24 Pedestal Base is approved for wood storage within the cavity below the appliance.
www.blazeking.com
Vs. a very similar looking noncat
Supreme - NOVO 24 | Freestanding Stove
supremem.com
Since this is a BK thread I can pick the boxer for you but that's mostly since I've never heard of anybody using the supreme brand.
You must really like that look. Have you considered the BK chinook? It is more common and seems to be a great heater.
That's their new boxer stove.
Boxer 24 - Blaze King
The BX24 Boxer is very clean and efficient. Performance is balanced to deliver a greater amount of radiant heat through the large glass door. The BX24 Pedestal Base is approved for wood storage within the cavity below the appliance.
Vs. a very similar looking noncat
Supreme - NOVO 24 | Freestanding Stove
Since this is a BK thread I can pick the boxer for you but that's mostly since I've never heard of anybody using the supreme brand.
You must really like that look. Have you considered the BK chinook? It is more common and seems to be a great heater.
Thanks for the info. I don't even know what the difference is between a cat and noncat stove, so I'm at a loss. Essentially I just want as wide of a viewing area as possible The chinook seems to have a smaller viewing area in that regard. I don't know anything about either brand they just both look sleek and seem efficient.
Canada is a vast track of land! Some parts are relatively warm in the winter and other parts are damn cold.
Indeed! I'm in southern Ontario so I think the sun room will be below freezing sometimes.
Is there some kind of BTU calculator that takes into account starting temperature?
Its this reason why I dont think a BK stove is the right pick here, you want fast blast heat, like 70k btu's per hour stuff with a 2.5 cu ft fire box, since the room will be having some cold starts, I nice drolet would be a good fit here, without breaking the bank.
Oh I see. Cat stoves burn longer and slower so I want a non-cat stove. The supreme NOVO 18/24 aren't cat and have BTU of 60000-75000 which seems potentially appropriate?
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