2021-2022 BK everything thread

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That’s exactly what I thought….. Please make a video when you attempt it, that’ll be fun..
Had I done a video, and had it edited for TV, you woulda thaught I was Tony Beets having a major issue with something that would’nt cooperate…. Lol
At the very least, I’ll take a picture of it removed if I can get it out.
 
Beautiful looking home but so so tall that piping is connected to the stove...I can see it burning better in the winter time with that long way to go up and getting a nice draft as well..I bet you have a pretty stove too..Why in the world would they make a part so hard to get out like that--to me they need another shot of thinking about it and how in the world would you clean your piping? Just curious don;t know much here..nice posting..clancey

The bypass plate is thick steel, looks like 1/2”, and is not a wear item and does not need to be removed for stove cleaning. The bypass plate rests on a gasket that can be replaced and it would be desirable to get the bypass plate out of the stove for easier access to do that job.
 
Does anyone know where I can get a cleaning brush with a slightly smaller diameter for the double wall black pipe? I used a very stiff bristle brush that seemed fine for the Class-A but it was very difficult to maneuver inside the double wall eight inch. I had to push and pull way harder than I expected, to the point that the brush felt stuck a number of times.
 
Does anyone know where I can get a cleaning brush with a slightly smaller diameter for the double wall black pipe? I used a very stiff bristle brush that seemed fine for the Class-A but it was very difficult to maneuver inside the double wall eight inch. I had to push and pull way harder than I expected, to the point that the brush felt stuck a number of times.
Get yourself a Sooteater and never look back..
Clean from the inside, no more roof trips..
 
+1 for the sooteater. Easy peasy cleaning from bottom to top in just minutes.
 
It must not be my day today. Here is a stupid question:
I want to tighten the door latch on my Bk. Watched a utube vid. (Some guy from Alaska). All he did was loosen the outside nut turned the latch clockwise couple of times and tighten the nut. Done. Well, when I loosen that nut….the latch becomes very loose and wobbly I can turn it all I want but when I tighten the nut again the latch comes to the same position as when I started the process! Do I need to loosen the nut in the firebox too?
 
It must not be my day today. Here is a stupid question:
I want to tighten the door latch on my Bk. Watched a utube vid. (Some guy from Alaska). All he did was loosen the outside nut turned the latch clockwise couple of times and tighten the nut. Done. Well, when I loosen that nut….the latch becomes very loose and wobbly I can turn it all I want but when I tighten the nut again the latch comes to the same position as when I started the process! Do I need to loosen the nut in the firebox too?

There’s a funny trick. “ Old”princesses like mine at almost 10 years old had the inner nut welded to the inside of the firebox. That sucks because you need to adjust the latch in full turns only. I can’t just tighten it a little. Also, if those threads get buggered then I’m screwed.

Newer princesses have the inner nut loose so it’s harder to adjust but infinitely adjustable plus you can replace all of the nuts.

Sounds like you have the newer loose nuts and the guy on the video had the welded nut. Grab another wrench. I actually like loose nuts better but both work.
 
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The manual says how to do it. Page 43 for the princess.
 
There’s a funny trick. “ Old”princesses like mine at almost 10 years old had the inner nut welded to the inside of the firebox. That sucks because you need to adjust the latch in full turns only. I can’t just tighten it a little. Also, if those threads get buggered then I’m screwed.

Newer princesses have the inner nut loose so it’s harder to adjust but infinitely adjustable plus you can replace all of the nuts.

Sounds like you have the newer loose nuts and the guy on the video had the welded nut. Grab another wrench. I actually like loose nuts better but both work.
That’s nuts
 
Thanks
It was mid 50s this morning so I lit her up. It will be in low 70s for the next 4 days. Will adjust the latch tomorrow afternoon and report. The manual says to loosen the outside retaining nut slightly and then turn the inside nut accordingly.
 
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Highbeam, if you figure it out let us know. maybe the higher ups at BK will shed some light
 
Highbeam, if you figure it out let us know. maybe the higher ups at BK will shed some light
How to get the bypass plate out? I think the secret lies with getting the operating rod out of the loop first and then trying to rotate it just right. I’m sure bkvp knows the answer and I know he changed the bypass gasket on his king before upgrading to the new king.
 
Help! My Ashford 30.1 is stuck on high. When turning the thermostat shut the damper does not clack so I figure it is stuck open.

I tried tapping on the rear covers, cycling/wiggling the thermostat knob and tapping on it as hard as I dare. Francisco at Blaze King said it would just be running on high until the wood burns out so it should not over heat.

Any suggestions?????????
 
Help! My Ashford 30.1 is stuck on high. When turning the thermostat shut the damper does not clack so I figure it is stuck open.

I tried tapping on the rear covers, cycling/wiggling the thermostat knob and tapping on it as hard as I dare. Francisco at Blaze King said it would just be running on high until the wood burns out so it should not over heat.

Any suggestions?????????
yes, take
the back cover off and check it, two outer screws, nit the center one. I take mine off to lube the system, no big deal. one more thing, make sure its turned down on low before reinstalling
 
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Help! My Ashford 30.1 is stuck on high. When turning the thermostat shut the damper does not clack so I figure it is stuck open.

I tried tapping on the rear covers, cycling/wiggling the thermostat knob and tapping on it as hard as I dare. Francisco at Blaze King said it would just be running on high until the wood burns out so it should not over heat.

Any suggestions?????????
Is it stuck open or did it not hit temp yet?
 
Stuck open. Full fire for 3 hours. Not overheating but mighty hot.
I will disassemble it tomorrow but for now it is extremely hot.
 
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Get yourself a Sooteater and never look back..
Clean from the inside, no more roof trips.
Ok. I just bought the Sooteater. Only used it to come from the top down through the Class A (6 ft) to get the two 45's and short section at the top. I'm assuming you take your pipe off the stove and clean up from the bottom? How do you keep that from pouring mess all over? I had quite a mess with the brush and had to use the shop vac every few minutes. I tried the bag trick but was working so hard to get the oversized brush unstuck and to move up and down that the bags tore. $24 for a two pack of Sooteater rods here at Menards. Hy-C brand.
 
Help! My Ashford 30.1 is stuck on high. When turning the thermostat shut the damper does not clack so I figure it is stuck open.

I tried tapping on the rear covers, cycling/wiggling the thermostat knob and tapping on it as hard as I dare. Francisco at Blaze King said it would just be running on high until the wood burns out so it should not over heat.

Any suggestions?????????
Francisco is really smart but a flapper pinned open on max high is not the same thing as setting the thermostat to max. When the stat is set to max it will automatically close the intake valve to prevent over fire and damage. That won’t happen if the intake valve is actually pinned.
 
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Ok. I just bought the Sooteater. Only used it to come from the top down through the Class A (6 ft) to get the two 45's and short section at the top. I'm assuming you take your pipe off the stove and clean up from the bottom? How do you keep that from pouring mess all over? I had quite a mess with the brush and had to use the shop vac every few minutes. I tried the bag trick but was working so hard to get the oversized brush unstuck and to move up and down that the bags tore. $24 for a two pack of Sooteater rods here at Menards. Hy-C brand.

Don’t take pipe off until you’re done sweeping. Shove the sooteater right up through the bypass opening and up the stack.
 
Stuck open. Full fire for 3 hours. Not overheating but mighty hot.
I will disassemble it tomorrow but for now it is extremely hot.
Sounds like my January. Stove is probably fine. Once it has cooled down you will need to take the cover with the "can't touch this" markings on it to get at the thermostat and air valve innards.

I don't remember the exact fitting on the screw heads, on mine it is one of the star drives. One of my kids got me a 64 bit set of all the usual suspects that aren't torx for Christmas one year and it is in that set. I had mine open once about 3-4 years ago and may open it up again this spring. You don't need a $50 ratchet attachment from snap-on, you won't be in there that often, sleazy Italian scrap tin is fine for the driver bit. Some folks here open theirs every year to lube the thermostat mechanism, more power to them.

While you are fooling with this, find the correct allen wrench to adjust the knob on the Tstat as well, that setting is one and done for the life of the stove if you don't have the overtightening disease.

Once you have it open the fix will be either self evident or something Francisco can walk you through easily, recall he is in the Pacific time zone.
 
Stuck open. Full fire for 3 hours. Not overheating but mighty hot.
I will disassemble it tomorrow but for now it is extremely hot.
Before messing with the actual T-stat, turn the knob you should range of motion from 7am to 6pm on the knob and with a flash light see of the rod is also turning that the knob is attached to, this makes sure that the knob isnt floating, if it is then call BK again and get the fix, more then likely the actual T stat shouldnt be stuck, but the knob attached to the rod that turns the butterfly is off the notch and needs to be reset
 
Don’t take pipe off until you’re done sweeping. Shove the sooteater right up through the bypass opening and up the stack.
That weedwacker head really does as well of a job as the traditional top down nylon brushes? I’d be interested in not scaling the roof each season.
 
Well, it is 0500 and the stove is cool so I will disassemble when it is light. This little episode proved something very valuable to know. Even though the thermostat is pegged wide open -not the same as turning the thermostat fully CW- the stove did not go into runaway mode where an ever increasing flue draft causes an ever increasing stove temperature resulting in "red topping". This is the historic problem with old wood stoves. With a full load of very dry small splits the stove became quite hot but did not overheat. It failed safely.
 
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