25 pdvc shuts down

[jackbean53]

replaced the bad combustion motor was shorted out, with a rotom hb rbm120, the problem i now the stove lights fine, runs like a champ and 2 hrs later dies . i mean like the stove took a 48 degree room to 65 in an a hour no e codes btw now after a total shutdown its humming / buzzing nothing is moving though

 

[ken372]

What is buzzing? The motor?

 

[Dgopetactical]

When it "dies" does it go into shutdown mode? I find it strange you don't get an e-code.

 

[Don2222]

Hello

That Rotom RBM 120 is only 0.6 amps!
That spec is very low! If the blades collect some ash it could just buzz! The OEM blower is approx 1.0 amp.

I recommend a good "Low Drafter" that has a strong 1.75 amps to keep running on the low heat levels

Rotom RBM 120
http://www.amazon.com/Pellet-3000RPM-Rotom-Replacement-HB-RBM120/dp/B000W3Q4QO

 

[jackbean53]

it was the combustion motor buzzing for maybe 20 seconds on and off, with the stove off, but still powered when stove goes off room air blower goes first, but it continues to feed pellets till the pot overflows finally the combustion shuts down after a short time. was kinda stuck getting the motor didn"t notice the amp i was looking at rpm, not a lot of places around to get motors on short notice here in pa.as it was this was 70 miles rt.

 

[jackbean53]

the thing with the motor means somehow power somehow a small amout of voltage is being passed through the control board
btw thank you in advance for any help

 

[Don2222]

I would also suspect the Triac on the control board that switches AC current to the combustion blower (They are so sensative!) , so you may need a new control board. :-(

 

[jackbean53]

well that what started this, was blowing fuses , narrowed it down to the combustion motor, anyway i emptied the hopper out the stuff in there was a year old put some new in maybe ll get lucky thank you btw i did notice the board lights flickering a wee bit

 

[jackbean53]

old pellets evidently, running 5 hours not a hiccup. Don can you suggest a better room blower something a little less noisy. thank you again

 

[smwilliamson]

It could be all of what you folks are saying but honestly I'd check the vac line hose behind or on top of the combustion motor housing. Two hours is enough time for the exhaust manifold to get nice and hot and I suspect the hose going from there to the switch is getting hot and you are losing your seal cause the hose end is dry and cracked. If so, just snip an inch off the bottom of the hose and reconnect it, provided you have enough length. In a pinch, or if you want to trouble shoot this, somewhere on your control board, taped to the side of it with foil tape there is a little itty bitty black jumper. You can trace the wires back from the exhaust vac switch back to the control board (later model stoves these wire will be blue), right beneath where they connect to the board you'll see two bare metal pins, they will be labeled with a number that starts with a "J", j think it's J14 but I'm not entirely sure, put the jumper across those pins and you can bypass the switch. The Vac line could be ok and this could still be the issue, it's not uncommon for switches to have a leaky diaphragm and give the same result.

you don't need upgrades to your stove. Use the stock parts when possible. Englander control boards are also a very hearty bunch and in all my years doing this, I think I've had to replace like 3 boards. It's not too common.

 

[smwilliamson]

This "low drafter kit" is essentially an exhaust blower that Don sells on his website EastCoastHearth. ***SPAM*** and isn't a room blower at all, it's a combustion blower.

Caution: switch out parts, especially convection blowers, with non-OEM, can give very adverse effects without realizing it. The room blower serves two functions, 1. Circulate room air and blower heat and , 2. Cool the stove down so it doesn't overheat. Anything that changes the air flow up or down can cause the stove to become unsafe, pollute, run like crap and so on.

Modifying your stove by installing replacements parts such as this blower, which is not OEM, isn't going to to make your stove "perform" any better. Though I will concede, the low drafter combustion motor does have a bearing which is better supported in a fixed frame of the motor chassis. The Englander OEM combustion motors, if they run too hot, can expand the motor casing and weaken the crimps that hold the casing in place. When the casing gets loose, it makes a sound like this "va va va va va va va va va". A quick solution, and much cheaper, is to remove the motor and look around the black casing where it meets the cast aluminum chassis, there are four areas where the metal dips down to bite on the chassis. Using a flat head screwdriver and a soft mallet, whack the crimps down lightly. I'm talking about the weight of a 4lb mallet dropping about a foot. Reinstall the motor and the sound goes away.

The low drafter kit is essentially a Harman combustion blower with some other parts added to it. Whatever that motor is, is not made for the Englander, it's not made for Don exclusively, Don has not tested this motor in any stove to any known standard and its $70 more than a stock a Englander blower, plus shipping.