I've searched the forums and found a few examples, I'm wondering if there are more examples of installation pictures. My 28-3500 is being delivered on Saturday and will be replacing a 30-NCP. Of course I have questions but need to grab a pic of oil furnace to help clarify the question(s).
28-3500 install pictures and install advice request
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Hi, yes the old stove does a good job of heating the basement and the first floor, but does not reach the second floor too well.
Please take a look at the pictures of my existing set up and my furnace and where I propose to install the pipe for the new wood furnace and let me know if I am on the right path or not.
Please take a look at the pictures of my existing set up and my furnace and where I propose to install the pipe for the new wood furnace and let me know if I am on the right path or not.
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Is that picture with the black dot your warm air plenum? If so, I think you have a pretty easy setup. If you put into the plenum there and 90 deg it inside, you shouldn't have any problem with backblow and then it will serve as the heat while your furnace fan push the heat around. FYI: It's against code/installation regulation to put it into the cold air return and it may cause damage to your fan, as well as a-coil, possibly even heat exchanger, worst case scenario. Bottom line is, get it into the warm air plenum, an additional plus is that you can still get heat in a power outage.
- Oct 3, 2007
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I'm sending my permit application for the installation of my 28-3500 and chimney today so I'll be getting started soon. It looks as though I'll have a similar setup to yours so I'll post plenty of pics.
jburner said:
Yes, in the first picture the cold air return is the duct closest to the existing wood stove, with the filter in the bottom of it. The 4th picture shows the front and right side of the warm air plenum with the two insulated warm air ducts coming out of the front and right side (one for first floor, one for second floor). The picture with the black dot is the back of where those two ducts come out. The black dot is where I propose to enter the plenum, with a 90 degree elbow.
Hmm.. There is nothing in the manual about clearances for the duct work at all.
http://englanderstoves.com/manuals/28-3500.pdf
http://englanderstoves.com/manuals/28-3500.pdf
I didn't see it either. So either is doesn't matter, or they didn't get them in the manual. Each furnace has different clearances. Don't know what to tell you there.
laynes69 said:
Clearance called for by code when using solid fuel heating appliances or anything with a 200* high limit is 6" IIRC. For gas or oil fired warm air duct clearance is 1".
heaterman said:
Thanks for that I looked at a few other manuals for add-on furnaces and they all show the 6" you are talking about. Like page 16 here: http://www.usstove.com/Downloads/Owners Manuals/131400MANUAL.pdf Without this info I probably would have run it too close to the beam that is between the stove and the furnace.
Also anyone got a good online source for the 8" backflow damper and other 8" galvanized piping required?
sritter said:
There are methods that allow reduced clearance if you have to.
Check your local hardware store for the damper and pipe. My brothers stock that stuff in theirs.
Hello I am looking into getting a 28-3500 . What are the methods of installation that allow reduced clearance . I will have to run it into my plenum above my AC coil and it will be just about duct height. The current duct clearance is 1". There will be about 4' horizontal run with 6" clearance before it dumps into the plenum .
Although not in the manual. the tag on the back of the stove says that it is a 2" clearance for the ductwork. 6" is plenty.
Mine is all installed now and I will post pics shortly.
I gave it a test run and with 5 splits raised the temp in the house from 63 to 70 in two hours. Wife started complaining it was getting too hot so I let it go.
Was unable to find the damper locally so did not install. Installed with 90 degree elbow facing up slightly lower than the black dot in the picture above. Figured I would take care of it if back blow is an issue, how can I tell?
Mine is all installed now and I will post pics shortly.
I gave it a test run and with 5 splits raised the temp in the house from 63 to 70 in two hours. Wife started complaining it was getting too hot so I let it go.
Was unable to find the damper locally so did not install. Installed with 90 degree elbow facing up slightly lower than the black dot in the picture above. Figured I would take care of it if back blow is an issue, how can I tell?
How can you tell if back blow is an issue? Just run your gas/oil whatever furnace fan, and feel if there is any air coming through your wood furnace fan. That's the simplest way. If nothing, then you are golden. Unless you have it hooked into the cold air plenum, then just stick your hand in where the filter would be. Otherwise, if you for some reason can't feel anything anywhere because you did such a good job with your ductwork, then turn on your wood furnace fan, and have someone turn on your oil/gas furnace fan while you sit by the wood furnace fan and listen for it to slow down, you'll notice a change in the sound of it, like it's getting backblown by the main house furnace fan. If you put a 90* into the plenum in line with the direction of the air your furnace fan blows, you most likely will not get any backblow.
I did put a 90* into the plenum in line with the direction of the air your furnace fan blows but I am getting backblow when the oil furnace fan is on but not the wood furnace, so it looks like I will need to add the damper. I couldn't find it at Home Depot around here. Anyone have an online source?
If you have a Menards around you, I know they carry them. They aren't cheap for what you get, but they have them. The other thing you could do is, fabricate your own manual damper. Don't know if you want to do that or not. Otherwise, extend that 90 farther down the ductwork if that works for you.
When your central furnace runs, it pressurizes the system. This in return makes your 8" duct a supply for the central furnace. The cheapest route is to buy a manual damper for the 8" run. This way if you are running the gas only, then close it. When winter comes around then open it. If not you can purchase a spring loaded butterfly damper for the run. I don't prefer this method in case of an outage. Its nice to open the damper and allow some heat to exit the jacket through the duct.
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