372xp or 372xp

[oilstinks]

So a guy at work as a couple of 372 saws for sale. One is a 2000 and the other is a 2014. Both are in good shape but the 2014 is almost new. $500 for the 2000 and $650 for the 14. Both have stickers on the bottom but the 14 is completely legible. The fuel tank on the 2000 is slightly discolored compared to the rest of the saw. I noticed the jugs are slightly different with the decomp valve in different spots and the 14 having a stamped steel plate of some kind bolted to the cylinder on right side towards rear of jug. I'm not real familiar with Husqvarna saws as I have used my ms460 ms210 and father-in-law s ms361 almost always. Looking to add another saw to the line up and thought I'd get opinions on which. The 2000 has a woodland pro bar and the 2014 had a forster platinum bar.
Thanks.

 

[oilstinks]

So after a little reading this may be a xp vs x torq

This bracket has an exhaust port on the 2014 saw. Where this one is solid that one has a rectangle hole and screen in the middle

 

[Newbie78]

It is xp vs xtorq.

the xp is a better saw.

my 2c

 

[oilstinks]

It is xp vs xtorq.

the xp is a better saw.

my 2c

What makes it a better saw?

 

[Newbie78]

It's not a strato, for one. It doesn't have the problematic early plastic-caged main bearings for two.

it's also a wee bit lighter in weight. Oh, and the plastic discoloration is normal in the older saw.

 

[Newbie78]

So a guy at work as a couple of 372 saws for sale. One is a 2000 and the other is a 2014. Both are in good shape but the 2014 is almost new. $500 for the 2000 and $650 for the 14. Both have stickers on the bottom but the 14 is completely legible. The fuel tank on the 2000 is slightly discolored compared to the rest of the saw. I noticed the jugs are slightly different with the decomp valve in different spots and the 14 having a stamped steel plate of some kind bolted to the cylinder on right side towards rear of jug. I'm not real familiar with Husqvarna saws as I have used my ms460 ms210 and father-in-law s ms361 almost always. Looking to add another saw to the line up and thought I'd get opinions on which. The 2000 has a woodland pro bar and the 2014 had a forster platinum bar.
Thanks.

Any progress?

 

[oilstinks]

Any progress?

Not yet. Been trying to deal with him but he won't come off the $500. He'll let me take it and try it. We work different shifts so some times it's hard to get together. I'll probably call him after I get out of the hunting blind and see if he is home. Looking in to stratocharge some say you get intake side wear. Maybe they are ment to run hard then rebuild or throw away for the professional. Asked a logger that prefers Husqvarna and he said get either or, or better yet buy the Stihl 500i.

 

[oilstinks]

I just went ahead and paid him for the older model.

 

[Newbie78]

Ya, it would have been nice to have paid less. Your co-worker likely knew what he had and priced it accordingly. He may even have gotten more in some circles, and if you searched and searched you eventually would have found one cheaper, but very unlikely in that condition. That example looks pristine and is worth every penny. I doubt there are many available in that condition at that price. Good for you! You definitely picked the right saw, imo.

I am assuming that it is all original and never messed with..?

The logger is uninformed. You just bought what many with considerable professional experience (like guys that have been running saws since long before the original 372 even existed and all the way to now) feel is the best 70cc powersaw ever made. And it appears to be a very fine example! The logger you talked to likely only keeps his saws for two , maybe three years and then buys new. That would be typical for a professional saw-hand. The Stihl 500i is very, very expensive and hasn't even been around long enough to gain a reputation...the xtorq 372 does not stand up like the real 372.

congrats! I am jealous.

PS, don't get sucked in to this 50:1 crap (imo). Just run it at 40:1 with any decent oil of your choice and it will last basically forever. If you don't know how to tune it, learn! There's a lot of rubbish information floating around out there...I don't know where you are at in your powersaw/2 stroke knowledge, but Buckin' Billy Ray can teach you facts. So can Steve's Small Engine Saloon and several others.

 

[oilstinks]

Ya, it would have been nice to have paid less. Your co-worker likely knew what he had and priced it accordingly. He may even have gotten more in some circles, and if you searched and searched you eventually would have found one cheaper, but very unlikely in that condition. That example looks pristine and is worth every penny. I doubt there are many available in that condition at that price. Good for you! You definitely picked the right saw, imo.

I am assuming that it is all original and never messed with..?

The logger is uninformed. You just bought what many with considerable professional experience (like guys that have been running saws since long before the original 372 even existed and all the way to now) feel is the best 70cc powersaw ever made. And it appears to be a very fine example! The logger you talked to likely only keeps his saws for two , maybe three years and then buys new. That would be typical for a professional saw-hand. The Stihl 500i is very, very expensive and hasn't even been around long enough to gain a reputation...the xtorq 372 does not stand up like the real 372.

congrats! I am jealous.

PS, don't get sucked in to this 50:1 crap (imo). Just run it at 40:1 with any decent oil of your choice and it will last basically forever. If you don't know how to tune it, learn! There's a lot of rubbish information floating around out there...I don't know where you are at in your powersaw/2 stroke knowledge, but Buckin' Billy Ray can teach you facts. So can Steve's Small Engine Saloon and several others.

Not familiar with those guys. I normally run Stihl HP ultra but it seems to have gotten a bad name lately. Maybe I should start using MC1 or H1R that I use for my TRX250r.

 

[Newbie78]

Well, one's a bona-fide small engine mechanic and the other's a bona-fide logger and tree guy.

 

[Matt93eg]

Very nice buy!! As has been stated I would much rather have the original 372 over the xtorq. I just am not a fan at all of the strato stuff.

As the other guy said, if you dont know how to tune, study it. Learn to know what your listening for rather than relying on a tach that way you can make instant adjustments anytime your out cutting. I keep a screwdriver in my pocket anytime I'm running a saw.

Oil and mix ratio will always be a debate it seems. My opinion is 50:1 is EPA BS. I run a good oil at 32:1-40:1. For the last while I have been using Maxima Formula K2. Can order or buy at a motorcycle shop.

 

[SpaceBus]

Nice buy. Personally, I don't think any of the Youtube "personalities" have 100% accurate information. In fact I think they say a lot of known bad stuff just to get views, comments, etc. The best way to learn how to tune a saw is to hear what a well tuned one sounds like when cutting and/or having someone teach you in person. However, it is not difficult to do once you know what to listen for.

This is how I do it. Set up the idle by starting the saw and turning the idle screw up until the chain starts to move on its own without adding any throttle. Then start turning down until it starts to die out, and that's when you turn it back up a bit until it idles steady when warm. Next is the low screw, you turn that up until the saw starts to bog down when bumping the throttle. Once you hit that point turn it back down till it picks up nicely on small throttle inputs. The throttle response should be snappy at low RPM. Finally we come to the high screw, which goes a lot like the low screw, but at high RPM. I also like to cut cookies on a decent sized log to get the tune just right. While cutting you should be getting some "four stroking" when under load and high RPM, this is what you want. If the saw just screams all the way through the log at high RPM, this means you are too lean. You will definitely be able to hear the appropriate noises from the saw with your 372, it's much harder with my 25cc Stihl MS-150 TC!

I always turn tuning screws up for a richer mix before turning down. You won't hurt a saw going with a richer mix, but a lean mix can cause damage.

 

[all night moe]

The Stihl 500i is very, very expensive and hasn't even been around long enough to gain a reputation

It has gained a huge reputation. Many loggers are now humping this saw out into the woods.

You just bought what many with considerable professional experience (like guys that have been running saws since long before the original 372 even existed and all the way to now) feel is the best 70cc powersaw ever made.

True, but there are many others. For ex. Stihl 044, MS 440, and MS 462.
Not to mention Dolmar and other 70cc saws... with a good rep.

don't get sucked in to this 50:1 crap (imo). Just run it at 40:1 with any decent oil of your choice and it will last basically forever. If you don't know how to tune it, learn!

Well said!

 

[oilstinks]

Just a note I've been running a MS460 for about 15 years. My 2001 55 rancher is just giving me continuous to trouble is why I picked up this saw. As for four stroking in the cut that's the first I've heard of that one. I normally set mine to burbble/gurgle/4stroke wide open no load. Does this mean I've been too lean?

 

[Newbie78]

Most pro saw hands don't keep their saws long enough to wear them out. Once they are in the hands of recreational users they typically don't put on very many more hours.

the 500i has been out for what? 4 years? How many really high hour saws are even out there? Given the problematic record of a slew of saw models in the last 10-15 years it's gonna take more than 4 years to prove anything, imo.

I agree with the 044...the other best 70cc saw.

yup, I shoulda bought a Dolmar 7300

 

[Newbie78]

Just a note I've been running a MS460 for about 15 years. My 2001 55 rancher is just giving me continuous to trouble is why I picked up this saw. As for four stroking in the cut that's the first I've heard of that one. I normally set mine to burbble/gurgle/4stroke wide open no load. Does this mean I've been too lean?

It should wander in and out of 4 stroking in the cut just a little, imo. Just a little. A wee bit...That is the safest place to be.

I don't think that Buckin' or Steve give any bad information. But there's tons and tons of it out there. Know nothings who "teach". 😠

newer saws are a pita to tune. Old ones are simple; they generally just respond to adjustments in a predictable fashion. Newer ones, not so much.

 

[oilstinks]

Guess I need to see if this thing has the limiting coil that fools the ear. After watching Steve I realized I've seen some of his videos before

 

[Newbie78]

Just a note I've been running a MS460 for about 15 years. My 2001 55 rancher is just giving me continuous to trouble is why I picked up this saw. As for four stroking in the cut that's the first I've heard of that one. I normally set mine to burbble/gurgle/4stroke wide open no load. Does this mean I've been too lean?

Not necessarily too lean, but you cannot do it that way with a limited coil cause it will fool you. Pita.
I'm not sure, but your new saw likely has an unlimited coil?? It should react properly to adjustments, no pita.
Once you know your saw, adjustments are easy as you know almost before you start it where you should be. Like the other day when it was -20C and dry after previously running the saw at -5C and a little humid; I just opened up the high screw about an eighth and it was close enough to buck the little stuff I was cutting. I would have been more particular in long cuts.

there's only one proper procedure to tune a saw. Spacebus pretty much nailed it.

the most important tune is the chain (as long as you look after your motor with something slightly on the rich side of close enough). Most people are miserably incompetent at sharpening. ☹️

 

[Newbie78]

Steve knows. So does Buckin.

I guess I should clarify.. first of all your chain should pull through the cut by itself. In some cases you should actually have to hold it back, like when you are nearing the ground if you are bucking deadfall, lets say. When you take the load off the saw, it should immediately burble and then clean up the instant you let it eat again.

you can piss around with tune like crazy or you can just get it close and get to work, cause in 10 minutes the weather will change and it will run a little different anyway..

 

[salecker]

Just a note I've been running a MS460 for about 15 years. My 2001 55 rancher is just giving me continuous to trouble is why I picked up this saw. As for four stroking in the cut that's the first I've heard of that one. I normally set mine to burbble/gurgle/4stroke wide open no load. Does this mean I've been too lean?

I set mine so they 4 stroke wide open, and then clear up when cutting.

 

[Newbie78]

Ya, that's why I clarified. They are too rich if they burble under load.

 

[SpaceBus]

Really as long as you keep your margin of error on the side of too rich, you can't really go wrong tuning anything. I know some people like to keep their stuff on the ragged edge of what is "safe", but these pro saws are too expensive for that kind of nonsense. Even my boat anchor Husky 460 cost too much to replace at the drop of a hat. Although I would love to get something with similar power output with a lot less weight, I don't want to do it unless I have to.

 

[Newbie78]

The edge of rich gives you torque. The edge of lean gives you revs.

 

[all night moe]

The edge of rich gives you torque. The edge of lean gives you revs.

Also in the design of the jug via flow and timing.