45º elbow offset

[Rdtcmtt]

Hello folks, I have a question . I have a us 2000e stove that I have set up in a corner.
I have set up my stove to specifications as far as the stove and pipe should be.
im using single wall pipe.
my stove is 12“ from wall on both sides and the flute opening from the stove is 22”.
I was sold two 45 degree angle pipe in case that their was a cross beam in the way. And of course there was.
when running the stove pipe straight up I’m still within 22” distance from wall.
Here is the question.
First I install the long stem pipe to the base of stove, then I install the two 45s to bypass the beam, can I turn the 45s closer the wall.
i turned the 45s closer to the back wall, giving me a clearance of 16“ from back wall.
the stem pipe is within clearance, it’s just the 45s towards the ceiling that will connect to the ceiling support now has given me 16” instead of 22.
Or do I need to go the opposite direction away from wall to get my clearance.
Also, if I Decide to use two 45 double wall pipe ,will that make a difference in clearance.
thanks.......Robert C

Is it a ceiling joist or an exposed beam? If the beam is exposed and wood, then it also needs 18" minimum clearance from the single-wall stove pipe.

Double-wall stove pipe is best, but another option might be to shield the section above the top 45. A picture can help us see what you are up against.

Here are some pics of my install.
I Have already cut an opening, not thinking about that. In fact I thought of it believe it of not in my sleep .
repairing the hole no problem, so should I move the 45s to the other side of cross supports.
thanks......RobertC



You can either switch to double-wall stovepipe of the same brand as the chimney support box or shield the single-wall pipe. Shielding can be done with a metal shield on 1" standoffs on the wall, or attached to the stove pipe on 1" standoffs, or attached to the support box and hanging down like a curtain past the upper section of the 45.

Here are some more pics.
im not for sure I follow you on 1 inch shielding .
here are two possible positions of pics of elbows.
the one under the cut square has a 16 inch clearance .
the other position has a 26 inch clearance by 22 inch clearance.
mind you that it will attach to the support box ,which will attaché to chimney.
thx.......RobertC

Also can I use double wall elbows attached to the single wall pipe at the top

 

[begreen]

No need to cut a new hole. Single-wall is not mixed with double-wall typically.
What don't you understand about shielding?

Here are the three options for shielding the single wall elbow as described.

 

[begreen]

Just to clarify, there is a big difference between double-wall stovepipe and the shiny double-wall chimney pipe. When I say double-wall stovepipe I am not referring to chimney pipe. The shiny stainless chimney pipe is only used from the support box up through the roof. It does not get used in the room. There is double-wall black stovepipe for that if clearance reduction is desired. That has a clearance of 6". The chimney pipe has a clearance of 2" because it has an insulation layer in between the inner and outer walls.

What brand is this system?

 

[begreen]

Also, is that a masonry fireplace to the right?

 

[Rdtcmtt]

Thank you for your reply, now I understand from your diagram.
in fact you made my day with that illustration.
As for that fireplace to the right, it’s as phony as a 8 dollar bill.
it was built to give the living room the look.
I bought the home last year. And that is why I’m adding a wood stove to the living room.
The stove is a Us2000e, the stove piping is duravent.
All brand new.

I understand clearly now, what you mean my friend.
im a industrial maintenance tech, I just have never installed a chimney in my own home.
So I really appreciate your expertise.
I will indeed use the 1 inch shielding.
Thanks ...............RobertC

 

[begreen]

Shielding works and can be painted to make it less obvious. Duravent's double-wall stove pipe is branded DVL. It's what we have in our house.

Duravent has good installation instructions. If they didn't come with the parts, they are online.

Resources | Duravent

Consistently the first to market with new innovations in venting systems, DuraVent has captured a leadership position in emerging markets.

duravent.com

 

[begreen]

Rdtcmtt There is one red flag with this installation - the return grille behind the stove. That is against code and dangerous. You do not want suction near the intake of the stove. It could reverse draft and pull deadly CO into the house when the fire is dying down. Code dictates that the return air must be at least 10 feet away from the stove.

 

[Rdtcmtt]

So exactly what does that mean 10 ft, and how does that work

 

[Rdtcmtt]

After reading the instructions I will be fine.
My home was built in the fifties , and it is not airtight as your new modern homes are.
Also I have gas furnace in my home and the intake is plenty.
Also, I understand the problems of negative air.
When I was young , and lived at home we never burned our fireplace without a window cracked open in the house or near the fireplace , just for that reason.
As long as heat rises , and the doors remain closed it must follow physics.
But thank you for that heads up.
its homes like mobile homes that must really be careful.
once I get it installed, there is ways to test for negative air.
one way is to put a small piece of wood into the stove and light it and see how the air flows.
RobertC

 

[begreen]

This is a serious issue. Near negative draft can occur when not expected. The return must be relocated or the furnace turned off.

 

[Rdtcmtt]

My friend I do understand, And in no way would I run the furnace at the same time as using the stove. One would pull from the other.
in fact I would shut the furnace down to make sure of that.
having the furnace running at the same time would indeed cause a conflict.
my home is a modest 1600 square foot home.
also for safety , I’m adding a device onto the opening of the stove. Connected to the flue pipe
So that when the fire dies down it will keep the flu pipe hot enough to keep heat rising.
it will be automatic.
As I said my home was built in the fifties.
In the winter time, The heat from the stove will keep my home plenty warm.
And don’t worry, if I have to make another spot for negative air return, I will.
I have done my homework.
And my friend you have no idea how that I not take what you say for granted.
I will make it work no matter what.
RobertC

 

[Rdtcmtt]

Hello begreen, I hope all is well.
l must apologize to you because I did not understand until now what you meant by the intak air being to close.
And now I understand.
You saw the the vent directly behind the stove, which caused you alarm.
That vent I have no idea why it’s there.
The only reason I believe it’s there is at one time it allowed vented heat to past from the kitchen.
The living room has only floor board heaters and the kitchen has forced air ,so that heat can pass through from the kitchen to aid in heating the living room.
inside the walls the vent is completely surrounded by 2 by 4s.
It has long been covered up by new wall from the kitchen.
As from my photos ,the intake vent is right next to the furnace which is about twenty feet from stove.
Thank you for pointing that out.
That vent pulls no air what so ever behind the stove.
But I will cover it up and seal it anyway.
Thank you .......RobertC

 

[MR. GLO]

This is a serious issue. Near negative draft can occur when not expected. The return must be relocated or the furnace turned off.

Shutting off the furnace might not be enough that other chimney could compete. When ?? when he fire dies down on a cold day? who knows. But I would do double wall pipe and get an ultra low (sensitive) co meter/alarm. One for basement and one for the bedrooms. kidde or a defender or similar brands.

Then eventually look into getting the gas unit its own fresh outside air.

Its hard to get a 100 percent test for negative pressure....A perfect storm or change of wind can happen. I like the draw collar idea but wonder what that costs to run per month. But even if the hole was not behind the stove and 10 feet away anyone's furnace could potentially pull co into the home on a perfect storm day. Bath vent on, door open upstairs, stove fan running, and a dryer running....I had to train the kids and wife about wood stove 101. The real only line of defense is ultra low co meter. Only way to tell its happening sometimes. A standard CO might not pick it up depending on the level and duration of co.

Is there another roof above your stove pipe roof line? or another chimney?

 

[begreen]

Shutting off the furnace might not be enough that other chimney could compete. When ?? when he fire dies down on a cold day? who knows.

That would be a completely separate factor and much less likely. At that point a kitchen exhaust fan could be equal competition.
Hooking up the wood stove to an outside air kit (OAK) would be a better solution.

 

[begreen]

Hello begreen, I hope all is well.
l must apologize to you because I did not understand until now what you meant by the intak air being to close.
And now I understand.
You saw the the vent directly behind the stove, which caused you alarm.
That vent I have no idea why it’s there.
The only reason I believe it’s there is at one time it allowed vented heat to past from the kitchen.
The living room has only floor board heaters and the kitchen has forced air ,so that heat can pass through from the kitchen to aid in heating the living room.
inside the walls the vent is completely surrounded by 2 by 4s.
It has long been covered up by new wall from the kitchen.
As from my photos ,the intake vent is right next to the furnace which is about twenty feet from stove.
Thank you for pointing that out.
That vent pulls no air what so ever behind the stove.
But I will cover it up and seal it anyway.
Thank you .......RobertC

So the grille behind the stove just passes through the wall to the other size and has no ducting connected to it, right? If so, might be safer. wonder why they did that? Is the stove room closed off by a door from where the furnace is? If so, then they may have turned the entire kitchen into a plenum, which would act as a duct. If there is a connecting hallway and no door closing off the stove room then just remove the grille behind the stove and patch over the opening.

 

[FishNChips]

Hello all - I have a question about using two 45 degree connectors, together, to create a jog in an otherwise straight up chimney installation. The question is - is it allowed? I'm in Canada which I believe has the same code requirements as the US.

I'm looking at the original poster's photos, and it looks like this is what he planned - a straight vertical run, then two 45 degree bends to create an offset, then up through the roof. My install is similar - a new Jotul 602 using Security brand "DL" (the double walled stuff), straight up and into the cathedral ceiling box, where it will join the shiny exterior (double walled, insulated Security brand) pipe that goes through the box and the ceiling and out.

My installer has cut the hole and installed the exterior components too far into the room - I would like to move it back a few inches (while maintaining all clearances to combustibles) and it occurred to me that adding two 45's could do this - if it is allowable by code. The install instructions on the Security website doesn't appear to address this. Given that no one raised this with the original poster, I figured I'd check opinions here.

Many thanks in advance.

 

[bholler]

Hello all - I have a question about using two 45 degree connectors, together, to create a jog in an otherwise straight up chimney installation. The question is - is it allowed? I'm in Canada which I believe has the same code requirements as the US.

I'm looking at the original poster's photos, and it looks like this is what he planned - a straight vertical run, then two 45 degree bends to create an offset, then up through the roof. My install is similar - a new Jotul 602 using Security brand "DL" (the double walled stuff), straight up and into the cathedral ceiling box, where it will join the shiny exterior (double walled, insulated Security brand) pipe that goes through the box and the ceiling and out.

My installer has cut the hole and installed the exterior components too far into the room - I would like to move it back a few inches (while maintaining all clearances to combustibles) and it occurred to me that adding two 45's could do this - if it is allowable by code. The install instructions on the Security website doesn't appear to address this. Given that no one raised this with the original poster, I figured I'd check opinions here.

Many thanks in advance.

45s are not allowed in chimney pipe for solid fuel. But 15s and 30s are so you can accomplish the same thing

 

[kennyp2339]

My installer has cut the hole and installed the exterior components too far into the room - I would like to move it back a few inches (while maintaining all clearances to combustibles)

Just make sure your accounting for the finished walls and not the studded out framing in your measurements, personally I'd rather have a solid straight up flue pipe and sacrifice a few inches then add elbows and stuff, makes cleaning / maintenance much easier in the long run of things.

 

[FishNChips]

Just make sure your accounting for the finished walls and not the studded out framing in your measurements, personally I'd rather have a solid straight up flue pipe and sacrifice a few inches then add elbows and stuff, makes cleaning / maintenance much easier in the long run of things.

Yeah, I generally agree. However, I installed floor tiling to create the required non-combustible floor surface, but then when my builder installed the chimney, it ended up further out into the room than I had intended, and now, if I keep the stove where the straight pipe to the chimney would have it, I'll have to tear up the tiles (they've been attached with tile adhesive) and move them and the plywood riser under them. Otherwise, I won't have the required non-combustible coverage in front of the stove... This is at my cabin, a 2.5 hr drive from my house, so it's been tricky to coordinate with my builder, leading to stuff like this.

 

[begreen]

We have an offset due to swapping out the Jotul for the PE. The sooteater slides right through it.

 

[CanFireman]

Important to acknowledge different countries have different standards. A quick check in Security Chimney installation instructions will show a 45 degree elbow is permitted within chimney.

As to double-wall stovepipe, two 45’s back to back to create offset (allows you to move your stove back) can be done. The elbows are adjustable. If you do it with 30 or 15 degrees, certainly better.

What is your overall height for stovepipe?

 

[bholler]

Important to acknowledge different countries have different standards. A quick check in Security Chimney installation instructions will show a 45 degree elbow is permitted within chimney.

As to double-wall stovepipe, two 45’s back to back to create offset (allows you to move your stove back) can be done. The elbows are adjustable. If you do it with 30 or 15 degrees, certainly better.

What is your overall height for stovepipe?

I believe 45s are not permitted on solid fuel chimneys in Canada either. But they are for liquid fuels. None are permitted in the US

 

[CanFireman]

No offence, but opinions are like belly-buttons. Everyone has one. Is informed opinion that should be sought.

What is listed/approved takes precedence over what an individual might think.

If in doubt, always call tech support for product you are working with.

 

[bholler]

No offence, but opinions are like belly-buttons. Everyone has one. Is informed opinion that should be sought.

What is listed/approved takes precedence over what an individual might think.

If in doubt, always call tech support for product you are working with.

Excuse me. The last time I checked that is what Canadian code said. I said I believe because honestly I don't check Canadian code often because I don't work in Canada and don't need to know it the way I do US code. But what I said is not an opinion it is based upon reading actual codes. I doubt they changed but can't say for sure because I don't have a copy of current Canadian code.

 

[bholler]

If I am.wrong I will gladly admit that. But I don't have the time currently to research it.