5 questions about stovepipe

[Charles2]

1. Are all black double-wall stove pipes stainless steel on the inner pipe?

2. At https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/choosing_and_using_wstove it says, "Install a stack thermometer on the stove flue. This will help you monitor the temperature of the gases as they leave the stove. Optimum range for most efficiency and least pollution: about 300 to 400 F." Does this recommendation assume single-wall or double-wall stovepipe?

3. At https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/installing_a_woodstove#chimney it says, "No Stovepipe can pass through Walls, Ceilings, Floors or Windows—Use only UL Approved Chimney". Why is that? And why not connect 103HT class A chimney directly to the stove collar and omit the stovepipe entirely?

4. Do creosote fires ever happen in stove pipe? If not, why not?

5. At https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/installing_a_woodstove#chimney it says, "When assembling your stove pipe use black furnace cement to seal between each piece. In addition, use three sheet metal screws at each joint in the pipe." Is this advice intended just for single-wall pipe or for double-wall also? Are there twist-lock double wall stove pipes, and do they need cement and screws as well?

 

[bholler]

1 most are but not all
2 the stack temp should be the same regardless of the type of pipe but to read temps on double wall you need a probe thermometer a magnet is fine for single wall
3 Stove pipe can not pass thru walls because it is not rated to do so. you could put class a right on the stove but it would be a real pain to take it apart to service it when you need to.
4 Yes a chimney fire can happen in the stove pipe and they usually start there.
5 I never use cement on any of the stove pipe i assemble just the 3 screws And no there is not twist lock stove pipe to my knowledge

 

[mol1jb]

3. To add to bholler, it would also be a lot more expensive to run that much class A stove pipe.

 

[jeff_t]

Class A pipe is also heavy and needs to be supported. A stove isn't made for that.

 

[bholler]

Yes both good points as well

 

[Charles2]

to read temps on double wall you need a probe thermometer...

...Yes a chimney fire can happen in the stove pipe and they usually start there...

...I never use cement on any of the stove pipe i assemble just the 3 screws

How are probe thermometers installed?

If chimney fires usually start in the stovepipe, shouldn't the stovepipe be rated UL 103HT like the chimney pipe?

Do you use typical HVAC zip screws, or something painted black to match the stovepipe?

 

[bholler]

A probe thermometer is installed by drilling a hole in the pipe and sliding the probe in. It does not need to be rated to ul 103ht because it does not pass thru walls or floors. It needs to be exposed in the open. And yes we usually use black 1/4" head zip screws.

 

[Charles2]

How do you decide between sealed and vented double-wall stovepipe? Does the vented type require more clearance? If not, why not?

 

[bholler]

It requires the clearance that the instructions say it requires

 

[Charles2]

And does that tend to be more than sealed? Or do you not really have any experience with the vented type?

 

[bholler]

The clearance is usually 6" regardless of the type but again what ever pipe you pick will tell you exactly what is needed. Vented is good for reducing clearance non vented reduces clearance and help keep the internal temp up a little more. So it will depend on what stove you choose and how long you connector pipe is. In many cases single wall is perfectly fine as well