562xp Mods/ Bar length change

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walhondingnashua

Feeling the Heat
Jul 23, 2016
483
ohio
So I watched a video last night by Buckin' Billy. He had a stock 562xp with a 32" bar and chain. He converted it from 3/8 to .325 and his bar was a lighter style bar that isn't made anymore. He was also only cutting really soft wood but it seemed to run fine.

I have no interest in a 32" bar and from anything I read, its way more than what that saw should handle. However, I wouldn't mind a 28". I know it's considered the max my my 562xp, and I have read posts on other forums, but it seems inconclusive on how much this saw will struggle with this change. I do not want to drop to .325 because I don't want to have to change the sprocket to go back to the 20". I really am only considering it so I don't have to bend over so far all the time when bucking smaller logs. Most of what I see are people saying what it should or should not be able to do with 28," but not as many people saying they have actually done it and how it works for them. I do cut mostly hard woods, 4-5 cords a year. Not sure if jumping up to a 24" would be worth the 4" gain but I am open to opinions.

I have also done some looking into muffler mods and there seems to be pretty mixed opinions on that with the 562 as well. Any insight would be appreciated. I am going to cut my cover to allow for more air flow like the newer models have.
 

salecker

Minister of Fire
Aug 22, 2010
1,876
Northern Canada
Go for the long bar to save your back,if it is an issue for your saw get a skip tooth chain,crank the oiler to max and cut away.
 

EbS-P

Minister of Fire
Jan 19, 2019
3,553
SE North Carolina
Buckin’ likes his long bars. “Stand up and buck” He also runs a lot of skip and semi skip. I’d totally get a 28” lightweight bar and a loop of full skip so if I found myself struggling with some big stuff I could swap chains. I’d stay with 3/8”.

That said he has a lot of ported saws. Some he says aren’t are outliers if they aren’t ported.
 

walhondingnashua

Feeling the Heat
Jul 23, 2016
483
ohio
I'm a little worried to mess with anything mechanically the more I read about these auto tune saws. May just leaver the muffler alone and try a 24" bar. I think that 4" would give me a lot and note work the saw too much in any hard woods. Probably run semi chain skip.
 

Hap Shaughnessy

New Member
Nov 30, 2021
25
Vaughn Washington
Port the muffler its easy if you have a dremel not so much if you dont. Newer saws exhausts are pretty restrictive and not only will she have more poop but will run cooler as well. Autotune will adjust to the air flow increase.
 

duramaxman05

Minister of Fire
Aug 17, 2014
678
Perryville, Mo
I modified the muffler on my 550xp. It's autotune and it woke it up. I took the muffler off and did it and then blew it out real good. I made the openings fairly big so it's pretty loud. Overall I'm happy with the performance gains. I do muffler moods on all my saws. My little dolmar 421 had a catalytic converter in it. That would get hot. So it had to go, man what a difference that made.
 
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walhondingnashua

Feeling the Heat
Jul 23, 2016
483
ohio
Well then maybe I will modify the muffler. I do have a dremel but not sure what exactly I should be doing. Are there any good videos that you guys recommend?
 

duramaxman05

Minister of Fire
Aug 17, 2014
678
Perryville, Mo
Well then maybe I will modify the muffler. I do have a dremel but not sure what exactly I should be doing. Are there any good videos that you guys recommend?
Most of the time I take the spark arrestor screen out and make the hole bigger. It depends on how the muffler is made. If it's like my dolmar 421, it was made in a couple pieces so it was easy.
 

Hap Shaughnessy

New Member
Nov 30, 2021
25
Vaughn Washington
Remove the muffler from the saw and if you can get inside the muffler cut any baffle it has inside of it out. Also increase the exit hole to the size of the exhaust port coming out of the saw or maybe a little smaller. Then grind down any burrs and smooth the edges. If you cannot get inside the muffler just grind open the exit hole and that will work. Either way when you make it easier for the exhaust to exit the saw you get cooler running temps and also more power. Make sure you blow it out real good with compressed air when you are done or if no compressor wash it out real good with soap and water. Thats all there is to it.
 
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walhondingnashua

Feeling the Heat
Jul 23, 2016
483
ohio
This is next on my list of projects then once I finish insulating the garage (never enough time lol). I am going to hold off on getting the 24" bar. I lost my hatchet so going to need to spend a little money on one of those, and I don't want to buy a cheap one.

Should I assume its going to get louder after the muffler mod? I already think its ear-hurting loud.
 

walhondingnashua

Feeling the Heat
Jul 23, 2016
483
ohio
Been a bit on this thread, but I'm ready to buy a new bar. I am looking at the WoodlandPRO bars from baileysonline. I currently have a 20" that has been holding up well. Going to up size to a 24" and buy a couple chains.
I currently use full chisel-skip (Oregon chain). I know full chisel can dull a little faster but I'm pretty careful with it so they stay sharp long enough for me. My question is, should I stay with full chisel-skip with the 24" bar or should I make a change?
 

hedge wood

Feeling the Heat
Mar 1, 2009
312
Eastern NE
I run the Woodland pro bars and have had good luck with them. I also run the Woodland pro chains. I only run the Semi chisel never have much luck with full chisel. I mostly cut hedge, locust and mulberry. We try our best to stay out of the dirt also but the full chisel just doesn't seem to hold up the best for us.
 

EbS-P

Minister of Fire
Jan 19, 2019
3,553
SE North Carolina
I would get a light weight bar. And jump right to 28” skip. I have semi chisel on mine and it’s a bit rougher cutting smaller diameter. I guess once you go skip your sharpening time is less. If full chisel works for you why change.

Light weight bar(s) will be my next purchase. My 52” woodland bar has run great on my Alaskan mill.
 

walhondingnashua

Feeling the Heat
Jul 23, 2016
483
ohio
I ordered a 24" woodlandPRO powermax bar and woodlandPRO semi skip loop. Have not used the woodland chain before, have only had oregon and stihl chain, so I am interested to see if its good reviews are true. Probably going to buy a loop of full chisel at some point also.
 

ericm979

Burning Hunk
Nov 2, 2018
208
California
Most of the chains I have are Woodland. It does not stay sharp quite as long as Stihl chain but it's not bad and costs much less. I have some of their bars as well and they are good too.
 

walhondingnashua

Feeling the Heat
Jul 23, 2016
483
ohio
Last night was the first time I had a chance to run it with the new 24" bar and semi skip. Cut down a dead ash. Chain cuts just fine, the saw showed no power difference, but I am amazed at how much 4" helps. I don't notice any weight difference but that 4" I don't have to bend over is very noticeable. Glad I made the change. Going to order some more chain, including some full chisel.
 
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Last night was the first time I had a chance to run it with the new 24" bar and semi skip. Cut down a dead ash. Chain cuts just fine, the saw showed no power difference, but I am amazed at how much 4" helps. I don't notice any weight difference but that 4" I don't have to bend over is very noticeable. Glad I made the change. Going to order some more chain, including some full chisel.
Do you have a 2in1 for that size chain ? ;)
 

EbS-P

Minister of Fire
Jan 19, 2019
3,553
SE North Carolina
I also am a big fan of the 562xp.. I love the saw for larger trees. Iv cut 40 inch stuff and have been happy with my purchase. My daily saw is the 550xp the x-force chain cuts well
I’m waiting for any one of my current saws to give me trouble so I have an excuse for a 550xp
 

walhondingnashua

Feeling the Heat
Jul 23, 2016
483
ohio
So I ran the saw for the third time with the new chain and bar. The first time was cutting up a good size dead ash. Worked great. The second was working some green red oak and black cherry from a storm. Cut great. Zero issues. Last night I cut a smaller (8-10") ash and a 6" cherry. I started noticing some smoke on the bar and realized it was getting very hot. There seemed to be plenty of oil on the bar, to the point where it was oozing down the sides towards the end of the bar where it wasn't in the wood. I also started noticing oil oozing out from the clutch cover. There's definitely saw dust under there, but nothing more than is normal. The chain is not super sharp but not overly dull either (still cutting shaving). The oiling hole on the bar is clear when I check it and I know there is oil making to the end of the bar.
Trouble shooting please
 
Is the groove in the bar clean , so oil can reach the tip ?
Some times I rev/check to see if oil reaches the bar during operating ..
 

EbS-P

Minister of Fire
Jan 19, 2019
3,553
SE North Carolina
Didn’t by chance throw a chain did you?