6" liner with 5.5" TEE? Huh?

[CenterTree]

So, here is the TEE setup I am installing. It is supposed to be for a 6 inch SS liner system.

Upon further study (and measurement), I find that the hole in the TEE (where the snout will fit) is actually only 5.5 inch diameter.

Is this a common scenario with these TEE's? The snout fits nice and it is 6 inch dia.

Maybe I am overly paranoid about the little difference, but,,,
Wouldn't the reduction at a single point in a system affect the whole systems draw (draft)?

Any ideas?

 

[bholler]

What diameter is the snout? and you are right for a 6" liner it should all be 6"

 

[fire_man]

I miss my old fully welded T. Those 2 piece ones stink in my opinion. Ever tightened one down good and lit a match near the snout or where the flex meets the T? They leak.

I can already guess bholler's next post...

 

[CenterTree]

What diameter is the snout? and you are right for a 6" liner it should all be 6"

The whole system is 6 inch. The snout too. The TEE is already fastened to the liner. (fits good). The snout fits good on the TEE.

Just when I measure the hole in the TEE it comes in at 5.5 inches.

 

[CenterTree]

I miss my old fully welded T. Those 2 piece ones stink in my opinion. Ever tightened one down good and lit a match near the snout or where the flex meets the T? They leak.

I can already guess bholler's next post...

I am planning to use furnace cement at that joint. I agree with you about the fit.

 

[bholler]

I miss my old fully welded T. Those 2 piece ones stink in my opinion. Ever tightened one down good and lit a match near the snout or where the flex meets the T? They leak.
I can already guess bholler's next post..

What is that fireman? just curious? When possible we use welded tees but most of the time we are not installing in a fireplace we are going into a chimney with a crock so for the most part we need the 2 piece tees. And the 2 piece tees from better manufacturers fit much better Generally the liners are about the same but the components on the cheaper stuff usually show the difference

 

[fire_man]

I think furnace cement is too brittle to deal with the expansion/contraction. I used this and it's hold up really well to the high temps.

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81878-Maximum-Temperature-Silicone/dp/B0002UEOPA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1415840494&sr=8-6&keywords=high temperature silicone

 

[fire_man]

What is that fireman? just curious? When possible we use welded tees but most of the time we are not installing in a fireplace we are going into a chimney with a crock so for the most part we need the 2 piece tees. And the 2 piece tees from better manufacturers fit much better Generally the liners are about the same but the components on the cheaper stuff usually show the difference

I thought I remember from an earlier post you thought a two piece was better than the welded. I was nervous about the flimsy spot weld holding on the strap.

 

[bholler]

I thought I remember from an earlier post you thought a two piece was better than the welded.

No not at all if you can use a welded one do it by all means just not possible in lots of situations

 

[fire_man]

I added 2 rivets to each end of the strap so feel better now.I guess I stand corrected on what bholler would say!

When would a welded not work but a 2 piece would??

 

[CenterTree]

I think furnace cement is too brittle to deal with the expansion/contraction. I used this and it's hold up really well to the high temps.

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81878-Maximum-Temperature-Silicone/dp/B0002UEOPA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1415840494&sr=8-6&keywords=high temperature silicone

(broken image removed)
This is not good??

 

[fire_man]

I tried that stuff and it just crumbled off little by little.

It's good for sealing heavy cast iron or thick steel joints, but it does not seem to hold up to the exterior of thin pipes over time.

 

[Sprinter]

I tried that stuff and it just crumbled off little by little.

I've also used it for a small repair and it was very brittle and didn't even stick that well, although your application is different. Here's a Hearth article on hi heat adhesives if it will help.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/adhesives-for-the-hearth/

 

[fossil]

If you have a good flue system with good draft, any leaks from the flue system are going to be leaking air into the flue, rather than flue gases out of the flue. The pressure inside a properly drafting flue is below that of the surrounding space. You can spend all the time and money you want on absolutely sealing up every seam & joint, but if you have a properly installed and well operated system, you'll just be wasting your time & money. Rick

 

[CenterTree]

If you have a good flue system with good draft, any leaks from the flue system are going to be leaking air into the flue, rather than flue gases out of the flue. The pressure inside a properly drafting flue is below that of the surrounding space. You can spend all the time and money you want on absolutely sealing up every seam & joint, but if you have a properly installed and well operated system, you'll just be wasting your time & money. Rick

That is what I figured for the most part about small "leaks". Thanks.

What about the 5.5 inch TEE hole? Any thoughts?

 

[brenndatomu]

What about the 5.5 inch TEE hole? Any thoughts?

It will make no difference. When you make a small restriction like that in a pipe, as long as it is not over a long distance, you will see very little difference, if any at all. Heck, some people are forced to use a 5.5" liner to fit into a small flue, sometimes those almost draft better than a 6". I would even go so far as to say the airflow will be affected a lot more by having to make the 90* bend than by that small restriction.

 

[fire_man]

If you have a good flue system with good draft, any leaks from the flue system are going to be leaking air into the flue, rather than flue gases out of the flue. The pressure inside a properly drafting flue is below that of the surrounding space. You can spend all the time and money you want on absolutely sealing up every seam & joint, but if you have a properly installed and well operated system, you'll just be wasting your time & money. Rick

I disagree. Leaking air cools the flue, reduces draft, and leads to increased creosote.

Just ask someone who forgot to install the bottom of his T cap. Yes that's the worse case, but leaks add up.

For $4.83 I'll seal.

 

[begreen]

Are you sure the tee is for 6" liner and not 5.5"? What is the part number and where did you order it from?

 

[bholler]

When would a welded not work but a 2 piece would??

When you need to drop the tee down a chimney and connect it at the bottom which is exactly what the 2 piece tees are designed for. the only other way to do that is to cut a huge hole in the bottom of the chimney to fit the whole tee in and then enough room to attach it as well

 

[fire_man]

a-ha that makes sense. Wish I went with the welded.

 

[CenterTree]

Are you sure the tee is for 6" liner and not 5.5"? What is the part number and where did you order it from?

I got it all in a "kit" from Fireside Chimney Supply. It is the thicker, SMOOTH WALL kit.
http://www.firesidechimneysupply.co...reflex-smooth-wall-chimney-liner-tee-kit.html

The TEE fits good on the liner. But the hole in the side of the TEE (where the snout goes) is what is measuring 5.5".

The end of the TEE where the cap attaches measures 6".

I do not have a specific part number for the TEE.


I am just gonna try to stop worrying about this as I NEED to get this hooked up so I can run the stove soon.

 

[begreen]

I'd call them up before installing. It's possible they accidentally packaged the wrong sized snout for the tee.

 

[Ashful]

That is what I figured for the most part about small "leaks". Thanks.

What about the 5.5 inch TEE hole? Any thoughts?

How are you measuring 5.5 inches? There is no normal cross section to a potato chip, normal meaning "perpendicular", not "common".

 

[Fsappo]

Its a fish mouth shape, maybe its just squished a little. Also, hold in tee fish mouth is smaller so the "snout" of the tee can fit over it easier, creating a seal around the "lip" of the fishmouth, which is sometimes done inside an 18" deep thimble.

If the end of the snout that will attach to the connector pipe is 6", that is typical and I bless it. in nomine webbie, et Bk, et secondary combustion