I've currently got an 8" double wall chimney installed in my house. What will happen if I put in a stove with a 6" pipe outlet? I know I'd have to put on an increaser but will that hurt my draft a lot? Thanks.
6" outlet to 8" pipe?
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If it's straight up in the interior of the house it may be ok depending on the stove and connection. Is this the same 13' flue that is on the Jotul 8? What are you thinking of replacing it with?
CarbonNeutral
Minister of Fire
Cross-section of a 6" = 28.3 sq inches
8"= 50.3 sq inches
a 2" increase gives almost a double cross sectional area. Will it hurt the draft? - it's got to affect it....
8"= 50.3 sq inches
a 2" increase gives almost a double cross sectional area. Will it hurt the draft? - it's got to affect it....
Yes it is the same 13' flue. The neighbor down the road has an older Regency stove that's got the reburn tubes. I want to say its 5 or 6 years old? The Jotul 8 blows us out of the house if we try and keep the pipe temp where it's supposed to be and if we choke it down it builds creosote REAL bad in a short amount of time.
Another thing I didn't mention. Right now my Jotul comes out of the back with a T clean out which seems to kill draft. The Regency will be coming straight out of the top.
It would help to know a bit more about the Regency, but it may work out if sized right and if it's in good condition. Do you know why the Regency owners are looking to sell it?
I'm wondering if the flue collar on the 8 can be flipped to make it top vent, without the tee. If the 8 performs like the modern F400, it wants more flue than it is being provided and the tee isn't helping. Maybe Craig or MSG can help here.
I'm wondering if the flue collar on the 8 can be flipped to make it top vent, without the tee. If the 8 performs like the modern F400, it wants more flue than it is being provided and the tee isn't helping. Maybe Craig or MSG can help here.
I'll need to get more info on the Regency. I did look on the back tag and it wasn't obvious which model it was. I didn't realize there were so many models. I know its a step top and its got the non vented step top. Sort of like the S2400 but its a one piece top rather than the 2 piece like the S2400. They're looking to sell it because they put a 2nd floor on their house and now they need to run the stove wide open to keep it heated so they bought a bigger stove.
If I flip the flue collar to the top then my stove will be to close to the wall. I've already got a heat shield on the wall to get the stove as close as it is. Yes the Tee isn't helping. I had just an elbow back there but creosote kept dropping into it so I went with the Tee clean out. After that it seemed like it killed my draft, it's hard to get fires started and keep them going. And if it's windy out you can sometimes smell smoke in the house with a good gust of wind.
If I flip the flue collar to the top then my stove will be to close to the wall. I've already got a heat shield on the wall to get the stove as close as it is. Yes the Tee isn't helping. I had just an elbow back there but creosote kept dropping into it so I went with the Tee clean out. After that it seemed like it killed my draft, it's hard to get fires started and keep them going. And if it's windy out you can sometimes smell smoke in the house with a good gust of wind.
Les Biancat said:
The pipe sticks over the peak of the roof a little over 2'. It's just a one level ranch so there's nothing else obstructing it.
Well I just went and looked at the stove. It's not a Regency, it's a Century Heating FW300007. It's claimed to heat up to 2000 sq ft.
If I moved my Jotul 8 flue collar from the back to the top would that help my draft issue? Due to clearance issues i'd have to add two 45* elbows and a section of pipe to line my chimney up with the top flue collar. I'm not sure if the pipe "jog" would put me right back in the same boat i'm in now with the Tee coming out the back. I would think that heat and smoke would much rather travel upward rather than out the back around all the Jotul 8 baffling.
If I moved my Jotul 8 flue collar from the back to the top would that help my draft issue? Due to clearance issues i'd have to add two 45* elbows and a section of pipe to line my chimney up with the top flue collar. I'm not sure if the pipe "jog" would put me right back in the same boat i'm in now with the Tee coming out the back. I would think that heat and smoke would much rather travel upward rather than out the back around all the Jotul 8 baffling.
I think i'm going to go out of the top of my Jotul 8 and give that a try. I think i'll lose heat out of the pipe this way which I REALLY need anyway. With the pipe coming out the back my pipe temp was only staying around 175* or so. I had severe creosote build up issues last season. I was literally cleaning the chimney once every two weeks.
It's the old 8 with the draft wheel on the door. I believe it was made in 1986. So it's not an EPA stove.
Todd
Minister of Fire
That was my concern too. The Jotul 8 should be a fairly reliable and consistent heater. But throw enough curves at it, like damp wood and short flue, and it may get hard to run. I would try it with for certain dry wood and see if it doesn't act like a much better stove.
It would do this with even Bio Bricks. On a windy day it would blow smoke back into the house and they wouldn't burn down completely.
Let me also add that when the stove had a 90* elbow coming out of the back it performed much better but the creosote would build up in the elbow and cause issues. But with the stove putting out the heat i'd like I could literally put my hand on the black single wall stove pipe. As soon as I switched from the elbow to the Tee I lost most of my draft and the ability to burn the wood down completely.
Let me also add that when the stove had a 90* elbow coming out of the back it performed much better but the creosote would build up in the elbow and cause issues. But with the stove putting out the heat i'd like I could literally put my hand on the black single wall stove pipe. As soon as I switched from the elbow to the Tee I lost most of my draft and the ability to burn the wood down completely.
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