6" stove with 8" single wall pipe.

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rubantin

Member
Hearth Supporter
Jan 27, 2007
28
I have an old big steel stove with a big front door that is impossible to load without smoke infiltration. I want to replace it with a more efficient stove. The present configuration is a 8" single wall pipe with a magic heat heat exchanger in line. The single wall pipe goes into a brick chimney. The newer stoves I am looking at ony have a 6" out..... What are my options?
 
A modern stove will need the chimney matched to it. This may require installing a stainless liner in the chimney. Tell us a bit more about the chimney. What is the height and what are the inner dimensions of the tile liner? Also, location can cause problems if there is negative pressure there. Is this stove in a basement?
 
Talked to the builder and was informed that the brick is just veneer and that it is a single wall 8" that goes into a 8" triple wall chimney pipe. It is a 2 story house and the stove is on the first floor.. no basement.
 
Ok is it triple wall or insulated double wall and how high is the chimney?
 
Tjernlund stove pipe fan might work for you, if you're fond of that old stove.
 
Tjernlund stove pipe fan might work for you, if you're fond of that old stove.

I am sory but those are nothing but a bandaid for a larger problem and in my experience cause more problems than they fix. I stronly recomend against using one to anyone who is considering it
 
Two story and 16 ft of 8" may work ok with a 6" EPA stove if it is a pretty easy breathing stove. It's worth a try if the chimney is up to snuff. If so, you would connect the stove to the chimney with 6" connector and a 6 to 8" increaser at the thimble. Double-wall connector would be the best here.

What stoves are you looking at?
 
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NA I just thought it would prevent the smoke during reloading is all.

Bholler knows more about this stuff than me.
 
If so, you would connect the stove to the chimney with 6" connector and a 6 to 8" increaser at the thimble. Double-wall connector would be the best here.
Could I put the 6 - 8 increaser between the new stove and the heat exchanger (Magic Heat)?

What stove you looking at?
Hearthstone heritage was what we had at our previous home and would like to have one here...
 
no do not use the heat exchanger at all
 
Agreed. Lose the Magic-Heat. You want the higher efficiency stove to do the heating, not the flue. An EPA stove needs good draft to perform correctly and you want the flue gases to stay above 250F at exit from the chimney cap to avoid creosote buildup.

How large an area will the stove be heating? Will you be burning 24/7 or nights and weekends?
 
Agreed. Lose the Magic-Heat. You want the higher efficiency stove to do the heating, not the flue. An EPA stove needs good draft to perform correctly and you want the flue gases to stay above 250F at exit from the chimney cap to avoid creosote buildup.

How large an area will the stove be heating? Will you be burning 24/7 or nights and weekends?
1400 ft2 Northern MN ;)
 
In your area I'd be tempted to put in a Mansfield.
 
Well, after some discussion in our household it looks like we are not going to have another stove... We are renting and the landlord said no to buying another stove. So, I am actually considering the Tjernlund stove pipe fan
 
that is a very strange looking setup i thik it should be inspected by a sweep. That being said i would try pulling out that heat exchanger before putting in a draft inducer i would bet that will improve your draft considerably
 
I cleaned the chimney 2 times in the last 6 months... almost nothing in there....Strange thing is the smoke problem existed before the exchanger was put in... Its like unless I have a rip roaring fire going there is insufficient draft... And even then sometime I still get smoke... The door is so close to the top, it's ridiculous.
 
Here is some pictures of the inside the second picture shows some piece of aluminum looks like a shield at the inside top, covering the stove pipe hole... does that look normal or should I try taking that out

(broken image removed)(broken image removed)
 
get a sweep out to look at it do not put one of those draft inducers in
 
I dont know that stove but that does not look origonal what ever it is it is warped badly and looks like it could be restricting flow
 
Looks like someone may have attempted to add a stainless baffle. (hopefully not aluminum). That old dog of a stove is part of the issue. The front is wider at the bottom thus sloping the door slightly. This allows smoke to roll out the top when the door is open. The Magic Heat is a bandaid for poor performance and it is exacerbating the situation by reducing draft.

Who would pay for the new stove? If it is you, explain to the landlord that the new stove will burn cleaner and safer. However, a new stove like an Englander 30NC will not be as forgiving if the wood is poorly seasoned. EPA stoves want dry wood only.
 
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