7" chimeny for wood stove?

[jconley23]

I am new to the wood stove world. kind of. I grew up in northern michigan, and we all had wood stoves. But our parents and my friends parents always had them installed, and I just knew you put wood in them. and we cut and split wood all summer. I went into the military at 17, and have been in hot places since.

Now I am back home. I bought a Drolet myriad a few weeks ago. Now that we got down to 30ish degrees last night my wife decided it was time to test the wood stove out. BUT, its not hooked up.

Okay, so we have a brick chimney/masonary (in the center of the house) with a 7" steel liner? We bought the house and it had a pellet stove previously. So there was a 4" liner inside the 7 inch liner. I pulled that out this morning.

First question is. Is it ok to use the 7" with the wood stove (6" stove pipe to 7" chimney). that would be my preferred method (for cost reasons). If so where can I find a 6" to 7" adapter?! I have checked all over locally, and it doesnt seem like 7" chimney venting is all that common?

thanks in advance.

 

[brenndatomu]

How tall is the chimney? Is the liner insulated? 6" stove on a 7" chimney likely will be ok, especially if you have a tall chimney, even better chance of working with a tall chimney and an insulated liner.
Yup, 7" is not real common for sure, you probably will hafta order online, like this one...(broken link removed)
You could always switch out to a 6" liner if worse comes to worse, $5-600 if you DIY it.
The real question is, do you have dry wood?

 

[jconley23]

How tall is the chimney? Is the liner insulated? 6" stove on a 7" chimney likely will be ok, especially if you have a tall chimney, even better chance of working with a tall chimney with an insulated liner.
Yup, 7" is not real common for sure, you probably will hafta order online, like this one...(broken link removed)
You could always switch out to a 6" liner if worse comes to worse, $5-600 if you DIY it.
The real question is, do you have dry wood?

height from the roof to where the cap would go is 4-5 ft. 20 ft total probably at best. it appears like it may be insulated. I can only see a small part of the pipe and it looks to be wrapped with some sort if insulation.

as far as dry wood goes... I am working on it. I have almost 2 chords of dead wood split and stacked.

 

[Woody Stover]

I would think 20' insulated should give you enough draft, even with the increaser but I'm not a draft expert. Some stoves breathe easier than others, as well. At 5' or more above the roof, bracing is required.

I have almost 2 chords of dead wood split and stacked.

Good deal! If you can find small, dead standing trees with the bark falling off, those are probably ready to go. And you have a lot of Pine up there. Dead ones may be pretty dry. You can get some longer-burning woods for future years but your main objective now is to have dry fuel. These modern stoves really perform with dry wood.

 

[jconley23]

I would think 20' insulated should give you enough draft, even with the increaser but I'm not a draft expert. Some stoves breathe easier than others, as well. At 5' or more above the roof, bracing is required.Good deal! If you can find small, dead standing trees with the bark falling off, those are probably ready to go. And you have a lot of Pine up there. Dead ones may be pretty dry. You can get some longer-burning woods for future years but your main objective now is to have dry fuel. These modern stoves really perform with dry wood.

so there is about 3 ft of brick above the roof and about 18"s or so of 7" steel pipe coming out above that. I may be a little optimistic on the 20' but its somewhere between 15-20. probably 20 from stove to cap.

I plan to get a brush and some rods to clean it before I put it all together. I need to do some more reading on how the pipes go together and if they need sealant or cement or whatever (stove pipes). ill work on that while the parts are being shipped.

as far as wood. yes, thanks... I just came in from splitting. I am getting closer to having 3 chords ready to go. the tree we took down this weekend was a 22" ash that was dead with all the bark fallen off it... that one shook the ground when it fell! but I have most of that one split and stacked.

OH, I need to go make and introduction, but my house is a 1400 sq ft ranch with a basement. I do not intend to heat the basement right now. I was reading that the myriad should warm up to a 2200 sq ft house? or maybe it was 2000... do you guys thing this will suffice? the location of the stove is located right in the middle of my livingroom/dining room/kitchen... all exposed except the brick chimney going up...

 

[Woody Stover]

That should be plenty of stove for that space. If you know what brand the liner is, get the components to connect to the stove from the same company. That way, you know everything is going to fit together. This sometimes is not the case when mixing brands. How do you plan to set up and connect the stove? That's a top-vented stove, right? Can you meet the required clearances for that model as it stands now? I usually don't seal the connections as long as they fit reasonably well. With 20' I don't think you will have issues.

 

[jconley23]

I do not have a clue what brand the liner is. dont know if the "same company" thing will happen. I see no labeling or anything on either end (I will look one more time before ordering). will probably go with the previous;y supplied link. I will probably buy the rest of the stuff from them as well so I know all that will fit together right.

As far as required clearences. The only thing I read in the instructions was for it to be 18"s from the back wall. Not sure what else you mean? I will try not sealing it. Worst case I will have to seal the adapter to the 7" liner because it will most likely be a different brand and may not fit exactly perfect.

 

[Woody Stover]

One thing you could do is to get exact measurements of the inner and outer diameter of the liner, then contact the maker of the parts you are considering to find out if they will fit well. We had to re-do some connector pipe at my BIL's because a hack installer didn't get the pipe that matched the support box, and there was a big gap that the guy tried to fix with silicone. As far as clearances to combustibles, they should be in the stove manual's installation instructions, along with the required floor protection.

 

[jconley23]

One thing you could do is to get exact measurements of the inner and outer diameter of the liner, then contact the maker of the parts you are considering to find out if they will fit well. We had to re-do some connector pipe at my BIL's because a hack installer didn't get the pipe that matched the support box, and there was a big gap that the guy tried to fix with silicone. As far as clearances to combustibles, they should be in the stove manual's installation instructions, along with the required floor protection.

got it. yeah my clearances and floor protection are good. I will be calling someone at lunch today for some fitment measurements. My liner is exactly 7". Is there a difference in chimney caps? is one better than the other? I see the cheap ones for like 10-15 bucks. Then there are the weather caps etc that can go for near 100... any differences in drafting or reason to get an expensive one?

 

[Woody Stover]

Stainless cap is more expensive but IMO it beats having to replace a rusted-out cap every few years. For the liner, if it can make the turn into the top of the stove, all you would need is the 'appliance connector.'

 

[bholler]

Most black pipe adapters will work if it is 7" You may need to crimp the stainless to get it into the adapter. The adapter will be exposed correct?

 

[jconley23]

Most black pipe adapters will work if it is 7" You may need to crimp the stainless to get it into the adapter. The adapter will be exposed correct?

so... you are right. both the liner and the adapter ar 7" couldnt be more perfect... is there a "proper" way to crimp the liner. I have been fighting it for a bit. would like to have it connected today to get the smells burnt off the stove before it gets to cold where we dont want the windows open...

 

[bholler]

What are you trying to crimp? Is it smooth rigid pipe? if so a sheet metal crimper you can get at any decent hardware store will work. We usually crimp it slide the adapter on attach it and then reach through with a ball peen hamer and flatten those cripms as much as possible it will work with out doing this but it does make things much tighter and smoother to reduce turbulence in the pipe.

 

[jconley23]

What are you trying to crimp? Is it smooth rigid pipe? if so a sheet metal crimper you can get at any decent hardware store will work. We usually crimp it slide the adapter on attach it and then reach through with a ball peen hamer and flatten those cripms as much as possible it will work with out doing this but it does make things much tighter and smoother to reduce turbulence in the pipe.

going to run to lowes and check for one. thanks. its smooth pipe. I need a 90 degree 6" anyway... and maybe some good tin snips.

 

[bholler]

yeah then pipe or sheet matal crimpers are what you need.

 

[jconley23]

Ok. So here is what I got.

 

[jconley23]

BUT, here is the problem! the seams on the 28" vertical piece and 8" horizontal peice dont seem to "seal"? for example I can see some daylight when I was looking through the pipes when putting them together... is that normal? how to you make that seal? or line up so it seals?! or does it not matter? it sure dont seem right... but I have a descent draft. before I put the elbow on I put a piece of paper up vertically and it sucked it to it, and held it up for a few seconds...