A couple questions for a new subscriber, US Stove American Harvest 6039

[jhz]

I purchased a used stove and installed it. I looked up the manual and saved the electronic copy.

The Manual says there should be 5 buttons below the controls for heat range, room fan, draft fan, aux. I only have 4 for on, off, auger delay, mode. Manual does not cover these control buttons. Any body seen a updated manual?

My understanding is that you can set an alternative auger "timing", at this time I am heating a smaller area and the stove is set too high the wife is complaining about the excessive heat.

I assume that somebody before me may have replaced the control panel with maybe a 6041 model control panel or did they change the design? Did they have problems with the control panel? I bought it and was told the exhaust blower needed replaced but in fact the control panel main plug was broken and was not making contact with all 10 contacts. So I replaced the "contact plug" on the control panel and it is working fine. They wanted 400-600$ for a new control panel.

I have turned the auger down to "0" and she keeps on a burning?


Attached a pic of the control panel.

 

[FirepotPete]

On top of the forum home page there is a link to a bunch of USSC manuals, it's a sticky thread right on top. In the 6039 manual it will have two boards, the ABC and the 4 button, the 4 button explanation starts around page 17. But there is more that can be done with that board than what they tell you.

You have the 4 button control panel, they were installed in some of the later 6039's and then the 6041's. It's the normal panel for the stove, ON, OFF, Auger Delay and Mode. The board you have may either have 5 settings for the HR (heat range) or 9 settings depending on the software version.

If you are getting to much heat on the lowest HR setting you can do a couple of things. The easiest but least economical is to turn down the RF (room fan) setting. If you are running on full Auto that setting should be at the same setting as your HR so it won't change anything as the stove will only allow you to go as low as the HR setting for safety reasons.

The other thing you can do is check how many PPH (pounds per hour) your HR is set at. Push the HR UP button and the AUX UP button at the same time and hold for a couple of seconds. A number will flash, it should be something like 6.0pph, that is your highest pph feed rate, this could be HR5 or HR9 depending on the software. Push the on button to get the board back to normal or wait a couple of minutes and the board will return to showing the HR setting you are on.

Then push the HR DOWN button and the AUX DOWN buttons at the same time and hold until you see something like 2.0pph flash on the screen. That is the pph set on the lowest HR, HR1. Once you know those settings they can be changed for less heat if they are set to high.

It might take you a few tries to get the buttons pushed at the same time to flash those numbers, it has to be almost perfect in pushing both at the same time.

On the low end it can be hard to lower it to much and get a good burn but then you will have to go through and find out what the DF (draft fan) settings are at and try and play with those to get a good burn without the fire going out or blowing to much heat out of the exhaust.

Edit to add: There is no way to turn the auger to 0. The AUX button is for the agitator. I think you have the agitator set to 0. If you have that set to 0 and the agitator is still turning you may have a bad board. If you find you can't control the heat range better you may want to run the factory diagnostic test that is described in the sticky I mentioned earlier.

 

[jhz]

Thank you FirepotPete! I have adjusted the lower limit down to 1.5 pph and will observe for a couple hours to see if it goes out. Yes it was the auger that was off, turned that back up running to clear out the pot.

Augers running at approxitmatly every 10 seconds, before it was at 7-8 seconds at 2.0 ppm. Flame is lower so I turned down the draft to 1.0, from 3.0. Damper at about 2 inches w/clear exhaust still. Flame still rise 8-10 inches. Will wait to see if fuel burns out too quick.

I did not find that manual, but ill search web for the 4 button manual.

One other question, did the 6039 ever have the option of connecting to a wall thermostat w/self ignition system? Mine does not have it but I see connections for a thermostat on the control board? Did not recognize a plug in for self ignition system (glow plug I assume). That is an even better option if the technology works for my unit.

Thanks again!

 

[FirepotPete]

Thank you FirepotPete! I have adjusted the lower limit down to 1.5 pph and will observe for a couple hours to see if it goes out. Yes it was the auger that was off, turned that back up running to clear out the pot.

Augers running at approxitmatly every 10 seconds, before it was at 7-8 seconds at 2.0 ppm. Flame is lower so I turned down the draft to 1.0, from 3.0. Damper at about 2 inches w/clear exhaust still. Flame still rise 8-10 inches. Will wait to see if fuel burns out too quick.

I did not find that manual, but ill search web for the 4 button manual.

One other question, did the 6039 ever have the option of connecting to a wall thermostat w/self ignition system? Mine does not have it but I see connections for a thermostat on the control board? Did not recognize a plug in for self ignition system (glow plug I assume). That is an even better option if the technology works for my unit.

Thanks again!

Direct link to the page with the manual and troubleshooting: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/ussc-troubleshooting.158667/

The manual is in the second post on that thread.

You can also adjust the DF settings the same way you did the HR settings. Just make sure you write down what they are before changing anything. You should see numbers like 270 on high and 230 on low. Make adjustments to these in very small increments, like 270 to 265, wait 30 minutes to see what happens. It's a proportional control board so when you adjust the high and low parameters all of the HR's/DF settings between high and low change by the same proportion.

On the control board where you see connections for the t-stat is there a jumper installed? If not your stove is not changing HR's when you change the number on the board. Yes you can hook up a milivolt thermostat to those connections. It doesn't matter which wire to which post as it's just an open or closed circuit from the t-stat.

You may or may not have the spades for the ignitor on that board. Mine has it but the software burned into it doesn't support that function. No way to update the software on these boards that I have ever found. The claimed it's a ROM chip that is different on the boards.

 

[jhz]

Thanks FirepotPete! I have adjusted the auger feed down to 1.01, then 1.15 then 1.17 which would not stay lit! I had to readjust to 1.20 and appears to stay lit. I am running 1/2 pellet-1/2 corn mix.

No jumper installed. Who did you get the info from regarding the software? Ya, they probably want to sell you another control board (400.00-600.00$) upgrade. If no jumper, are you saying the Heat Range settings don't do anything? Therefore I have to put a jumber on? That may be why I don't see a larger difference in operation. I do believe the changes you showed me made a difference, the three settings under 1.20 caused the fire to die down and I had to jump start it. Is that in both Auto and Manual settings?

Direct link to the page with the manual and troubleshooting: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/ussc-troubleshooting.158667/

The manual is in the second post on that thread.

You can also adjust the DF settings the same way you did the HR settings. Just make sure you write down what they are before changing anything. You should see numbers like 270 on high and 230 on low. Make adjustments to these in very small increments, like 270 to 265, wait 30 minutes to see what happens. It's a proportional control board so when you adjust the high and low perimeters all of the HR's/DF settings between high and low change by the same proportion.

On the control board where you see connections for the t-stat is there a jumper installed? If not your stove is not changing HR's when you change the number on the board. Yes you can hook up a milivolt thermostat to those connections. It doesn't matter which wire to which post as it's just an open or closed circuit from the t-stat.

You may or may not have the spades for the ignitor on that board. Mine has it but the software burned into it doesn't support that function. No way to update the software on these boards that I have ever found. The claimed it's a ROM chip that is different on the boards.

 

[FirepotPete]

Thanks FirepotPete! I have adjusted the auger feed down to 1.01, then 1.15 then 1.17 which would not stay lit! I had to readjust to 1.20 and appears to stay lit. I am running 1/2 pellet-1/2 corn mix.

No jumper installed. Who did you get the info from regarding the software? Ya, they probably want to sell you another control board (400.00-600.00$) upgrade. If no jumper, are you saying the Heat Range settings don't do anything? Therefore I have to put a jumber on? That may be why I don't see a larger difference in operation. I do believe the changes you showed me made a difference, the three settings under 1.20 caused the fire to die down and I had to jump start it. Is that in both Auto and Manual settings?

Hi, I've never found anything able to burn good below 1.5pph, that includes pellets, corn and cherry pits, either mixed or by themselves.

If no jumper is installed. What is happening is that when you go to change HR#'s, HR1-HR9 they are not changing even though it will show you going up or down, same with the agitator, draft fan and room fan since they are automatically adjusted to the HR setting. Automatic if you are running in AUTO mode of course, which you should until you learn how to use the stove and get the burn dialed in better.

Changing the pph within the parameter settings does change that amount fed. But that does little good for adjusting the actual amount of heat the stove is producing. Oh also after changing any of the parameters you need to push the ON button for them to take affect, well on some boards, I've seen a couple that it didn't matter but it doesn't hurt to push the ON button just to make sure.

If you have any old circuit boards around you can probably find a jumper and use it. If not you can jump it using a small wire. Just make sure to unplug the stove, discharge any static from your body, best to use a ground strap, before touching that board or you will need a new board.

 

[jhz]

Ill correct that tomorrow! Have to take kid Christmas shopping. Thanks for the info. I post any changes tomorrow.

 

[jhz]

Not sure if there are any early risers like me but got up to work on stove at 5:00 AM.

Shut down stove, fan still running. Unexpectedly, the auger is still periodically running? No fire, door open exhaust blower and circulating fan is still running. Is this normal?

Control board photo attached using OS 15. My TStat appears to be connected with the pressure sensor/switch wiring is this correct. FirepotPete, is this what your referring as being jumped? See red connectors. There are two other leads labeled BC2 and BC6 just to either side of the pressure switch?

All wiring is the same as when I bought it, don't dare to switch anything because the price of the control panel replacement. Also asking if anyone thinks I can convert this to a Thermostat Controlled/self ignition system.

Forgot how cold it gets in here before that burner was installed, was 75 when I shut it down. Any help is appreciated.

PS: This site is very informative, just learning to move around and get information that was referenced in earlier thread.

 

[jhz]

Not sure if there are any early risers like me but got up to work on stove at 5:00 AM.

Shut down stove, fan still running. Unexpectedly, the auger is still periodically running? No fire, door open exhaust blower and circulating fan is still running. Is this normal?

Control board photo attached using OS 15. My TStat appears to be connected with the pressure sensor/switch wiring is this correct. FirepotPete, is this what your referring as being jumped? See red connectors. There are two other leads labeled BC2 and BC6 just to either side of the pressure switch?

All wiring is the same as when I bought it, don't dare to switch anything because the price of the control panel replacement. Also asking if anyone thinks I can convert this to a Thermostat Controlled/self ignition system.

Forgot how cold it gets in here before that burner was installed, was 75 when I shut it down. Any help is appreciated.

PS: This site is very informative, just learning to move around and get information that was referenced in earlier thread.

 

[ARC]

Shut down stove, fan still running. Unexpectedly, the auger is still periodically running? No fire, door open exhaust blower and circulating fan is still running. Is this normal?
.

After you push the off button stove will "run" for a long time 45 minutes to a hour sometimes. This is to let the stove cool off before final shutdown, the Auger will continue to bump/run so the burning pellets will fall out of the auger tube room fan will run until cool and exhaust fan will run to get smoke out of stove. Do not work or clean the stove until it has cooled and shut down by itself

The jumper that pete is talking about is a small piece of wire that is in place of having a thermostat hooked up. When you have a thermostat installed the stove will go into idle mode when the temp you set has been reached. Idle mode means the stove never turns off the flame just gets small until the thermostat asks for more heat then the stove will ramp up to what ever heat setting you have it on. 1-5 or 1-9. See pic the arrow points to the jumper wire, these are directions for a 6100 stove but apply to your stove also.

PS Listen to what ever firepotpete tells you he is the go to guy on this stove, he has taught me alot.

 

[jhz]

ARC,
Thanks for responding. The arrows would be technically pointing to my 10 pint wire harness plug in. Did you see the white plug in harness on my attached photo?

 

[jhz]

Arc,

I'm sorry, looking at my photo that is were my pressure safety switch is plugged in. See the red plugs on right of the previous post photo. TStat is there. Not the wire harness.

 

[ARC]

Arc,

I'm sorry, looking at my photo that is were my pressure safety switch is plugged in. See the red plugs on right of the previous post photo. TStat is there. Not the wire harness.

Is there a small metal clip where I have the arrow pointed that would be the thermostat jumper. Also the spades on both sides of that clip are the thermostat spades, it appears you have pressure switch plugged into one of the thermostat spades?? Firepotpete would know better then me.

 

[FirepotPete]

I'm watching byt pseudo gout attack in hands, hard to type. I don't see OP's pics of his board.

 

[FirepotPete]

it appears you have pressure switch plugged into one of the thermostat spades??

ok can see pic now and it does look like one of the presure switch wires is on the wrong spade

 

[jhz]

 

[jhz]

Can I just move the bottom one (on my photo) and move it above the other side of the top one?

 

[jhz]

That would make sense to me, but I don't want to do without your confirmation. Don't want to have to by new board.

 

[FirepotPete]

That would make sense to me, but I don't want to do without your confirmation. Don't want to have to by new board.

it would make sense. is there any wire markers/labels on the wires? i'm trying to find old pic with those wires installed on the board but that does'nt mean they were not at one time removed from the switch.

 

[jhz]

YESSS! On back side of white label on end, BC2 and BC3! The need to be swapped as in this drawing. Can I do jumpers on the like connectors for the TState (see drawing)

 

[jhz]

They match labeling on control board if I change the right.

 

[FirepotPete]

YESSS! On back side of white label on end, BC2 and BC3! The need to be swapped as in this drawing. Can I do jumpers on the like connectors for the TState (see drawing)View attachment 218640

the black wire goes to the spade on the right.

 

[FirepotPete]

They match labeling on control board if I change the right.

good make sure they match on the pressure switch

 

[FirepotPete]

Can I do jumpers on the like connectors for the TState (see drawing)

Better to have they jumper or a fine paper clip where the jumper goes. Make sure not touching anything else. You could try it on the spades for a tstat. It won't hurt anything because it is just looking for an open or closed signal from a thermostat. But I'm not sure if on the board removing the jumper opens something else. You would know if you jump it from the spades and the HR setting stays either running a very low rate of feed or jumps way up. The "dash" between the HR and the number such as 1 will be flashing (HR"-"1), that indicates that the board is ramping up or down between HR's. If that happens then you will need to jump where the jumper is instead of the spades.

 

[jhz]

I suppose I should return back to .ca Tory settings after the switch and readjust from there.