A Few EKO Questions

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jeffesonm

Minister of Fire
May 29, 2012
862
central NJ
I'm looking at a used EKO 40 tomorrow and have a few questions. I read some old threads and will inspect the bottom refractory and nozzle for cracks/wear. Guy is selling because he's tired of dealing with wood and the boss (wife) is tired of the smell/dust/mess. The unit was used with return protection to the boiler so that is good.

  1. How can I tell if it's the new vs old controller? I understand the new version goes up to 195 max vs 175 I think...
  2. Can/should I bring some fittings and an air pump or compressor to pressure test it?
  3. What else should I check out?
 
New Control is designated RK-2001UA, it will be in the lower right hand corner of the face plate. Compressed air will let you know if there is a major issue but I think you should be able to see that visually. A small crack may not be evident until things are heated. I would take the outer skins off and look at all the seams. If there are leaks you should see some sort of water stain. You can also take the top back skin off and remove the turbulator cover and look into the Turb's.

Good Luck
 
Used I would think would be on the order of half price of new, more or less depending on age & looks. Maybe he is throwing a few parts in too that will save you money too.
 
Well my wallet is $2500 lighter, my truck 1300 lbs heavier, and I am the new owner of an EKO 40 Super. It has the RK-2001UA controller and came with a Danfoss valve, expansion tank and a bunch of 1 1/2" black iron fittings, nipples and valves.

[Hearth.com] A Few EKO Questions



Now I need to find someone to weld me up some pallet forks for the tractor so I can get it out of the truck...
 
you did really good... wanna sell it, lol.
 
I don't know the difference in weight from the 40 to the 25 but I was in a confined space between my detached garage and the roll up door in my basement so maneuvering a tractor was close to impossible.
I see yours is still on the original steel pallet which makes it very stable. I backed the F-150 up within 12 feet of the door, let the air out of the rear tires, removed everything that I could from the boiler to lighten it up and slid it down some planks. I then levered it up on some 3/4 inch plastic pipes and drove it to it's destination. I wasn't able to get any help that day so I did this all by my lonesome.

Once it's up on rollers it can be moved anywhere.
 
Forgot it also came with a Taco 0010Fsomething circulator.
I put a tee on the boiler outlet and lifted it out of my truck with a chain block.
I had not considered that... no concerns with all the weight on those threads? Yours survived so that is at least one data point.
I don't know the difference in weight from the 40 to the 25 but I was in a confined space between my detached garage and the roll up door in my basement so maneuvering a tractor was close to impossible. I see yours is still on the original steel pallet which makes it very stable. I backed the F-150 up within 12 feet of the door, let the air out of the rear tires, removed everything that I could from the boiler to lighten it up and slid it down some planks. I then levered it up on some 3/4 inch plastic pipes and drove it to it's destination. I wasn't able to get any help that day so I did this all by my lonesome.
It needs to make it off the truck and then down a few stairs and through the basement door. I was going to build a temporary ramp up the stairs and the slowly lower it down to the basement, then roll it across the floor with pipes. I used planks and a handtruck to roll the Jotul F55 off the pickup, but that was only a few hundred pounds and the planks were looking pretty unhappy.
 
Now I need to find someone to weld me up some pallet forks for the tractor so I can get it out of the truck...
(broken link removed to http://newjersey.craigslist.org/for/4208948982.html)
 
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