Our Hearthstone will go to 800-900 deg. on the flue gas temperature with a full load for the night, with the air control closed all the way. the secondary combustion will really be rolling for the fist 1-2 hours then it settles down. If it's 75 in the stove room within an hour it will be up around 80 deg. So when I load for the night it is definitely time to head to the back bedroom.
A Little scare and a few ?? on my PE Pacific insert.
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Tom, So its safe to burn the Spectrum 800 degree's? I have one of those cheap Rutland thermometer's and it says over 600 degree's is ovefire? Should I ignore the temps on the rutland gauge? Im just wondering because of stove's warranty. What temp is overfiring? Thanks for the help! Greg
Cearbhaill said:
Tom has it right. No need to get alarmed. Stove thermometers are generic. Meaning one thermo does all. The marked areas are just a general one temp for all stoves.
If PE had their own thermometer, it would read more like 0-400 creosote, 400-800 or even 850 clean burn, 900 or 1000+ now start worrying
You have the new insert worries we all had when first starting out. I was a basket case. Now I cut her back at 500 or so, watch her go up to 700-750 for an hour, then settle in at 600-650 for a good few hours, then 500 for a good few hours more, then slowly taper down. Thats a PE in action. Not to mention the Summits have EBT, which even with the air cut down all the way. It regulates itself adding & cutting back the air as it needs. Mine must be 600-650 range. I get secondary for hours.
Greg, your Rutland thermometer is designed to measure flue gas temperatures at a point about 24" above the stove. The temperature ranges marked on the dial indicate creosote condensation range, normal operating range and overfire range of the exhaust, not the stove. You can probably use the search function on the forum to find posts from owners of several different models who have used flue gas thermometers directly on their stoves and interpolated what the skin temp of the stove should be relative to the flue gas temp.
[quote author="Hogwildz" date="1196055116]If PE had their won thermometer, it would read more like 0-400 creosote, 400-800 or even 850 clean burn, 900 or 1000+ now start worrying You have the new insert worries we all had when first starting out. I was a basket case. Now I cut her back at 500 or so, watch her go up to 700-750 for an hour, then settle in at 600-650 for a good few hours, then 500 for a good few hours more, then slowly taper down. Thats a PE in action.[/quote]
Thank you very much!! :exclaim:
You have the new insert worries we all had when first starting out. I was a basket case. Now I cut her back at 500 or so, watch her go up to 700-750 for an hour, then settle in at 600-650 for a good few hours, then 500 for a good few hours more, then slowly taper down. Thats a PE in action.[/quote]Thank you very much!! :exclaim:
Cearbhaill said:
Sorry to say this but you need to ignore the ranges on the thermometer. I need to call Rutland and tell them this is bogus for stove tops. A lot of stoves are now connected with double-wall pipe. They should have two ranges, one for surface pipe and one for stove tops. Overfiring does not begin at 600. That is normal operating temp for many stoves. The thermometer would be much more accurate to bump that range up to 700 degrees. And even then, that is being moderately conservative. Wait until it's -10 outside and you'll be happy to run the stove at 650 all day long.
Thank You, Tom & BeGreen I wish Rutland would make one that works on a stove top. I have double wall pipe also. I guess a stove would be overfiring anything over 850 deg. Stove temp correct? Most stove owners manual's are not clear on overfiring temps. Wish they would put in the manual because you know they test them at the factory. Thanks Greg
Given that stoves differ widely in design, and specifically in surface temperature when operating... plus the generic nature of available aftermarket thermometers... why is it that every reputable manufacturer doesn't include a calibrated thermometer in the crate with the stove, and a section of the manual that describes where to place it and what it should read during clean but safe operation?
OEM cost to the manufacturer would be about ten bucks... safety and peace of mind for owners would be priceless.
Apologies if this is a "but the Emperor has no clothes" type question...
Eddy
OEM cost to the manufacturer would be about ten bucks... safety and peace of mind for owners would be priceless.
Apologies if this is a "but the Emperor has no clothes" type question...
Eddy
Wxman,
Yes, the size and kind of the wood will give you a lot of control over the fire. For a fast, hot fire , I use a soft wood. For a longer, slower heat, I use hard wood. I have split the wood in several different diameters...some split very small, some a little larger, etc. Actually, you can use all hard wood and get great fire control if you split your wood in several different sizes. If you have a good bed of coals, you can use a couple of splits and a few whole logs (not split) and get a long, slow fire. Just plain ol' fire tending 101 -
. Good stove season to you.
Stickburner
Yes, the size and kind of the wood will give you a lot of control over the fire. For a fast, hot fire , I use a soft wood. For a longer, slower heat, I use hard wood. I have split the wood in several different diameters...some split very small, some a little larger, etc. Actually, you can use all hard wood and get great fire control if you split your wood in several different sizes. If you have a good bed of coals, you can use a couple of splits and a few whole logs (not split) and get a long, slow fire. Just plain ol' fire tending 101 -
. Good stove season to you.Stickburner
EddyKilowatt said:
Just putting the operating temperatures in the manual would be a quantum leap forward. Only two or three do. OEM cost to put the thermos in the box with the stove would be three bucks. Drilling the hole and putting a probe thermo into the firebox like a cat probe would be a whopping twelve bucks including the thermo and line cost.
I smell legal departments here somewhere. If I don't tell you what screwing up is then when we get to court I can tell the judge that you screwed up and it is your word against mine. And I am a big stove maker and you are just a guy with a puddle of melted steel in what used to be your living room.
BrotherBart said:
Who let dat redneck cracker in our hood?
Take your Englander back to the back woods pappy LOL
And send me some ribs man
Hogwildz said:Who let dat redneck cracker in our hood?
Take your Englander back to the back woods pappy LOL
And send me some ribs man
That Englander is in the woods. And yes, I was once told that my neck was so red that you couldn't get it off with Ajax.
LOL, now that is red.BrotherBart said:Hogwildz said:Who let dat redneck cracker in our hood?
Take your Englander back to the back woods pappy LOL
And send me some ribs man
That Englander is in the woods. And yes, I was once told that my neck was so red that you couldn't get it off with Ajax.
I was thinking of your smoker 2000 model yesterday.
My neighbor had me over and they deep fried a turkey in one of those turkey fryers. Was damn good too.
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