Aaaaaand another "Help Me Choose a Stove" Thread

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Welp. I failed to get an aesthetic permit from the proper domestic authorities.

Also, she's afraid the kids will burn themselves on a freestanding unit that sits out past the fireplace on our 1" hearth. (I argued that we should then get rid of our kitchen knives, mower, and should then never get a dog- but the day was already lost, my friends). I did however tell the seller that I'd buy the Fireview down the road if she just needed to get rid of it.

Sooooo, back to looking at inserts or small, top vent freestanding units that could fit all the way inside the fireplace . At this point, I'm sort of leaning toward the latter if I can somehow avoid a hearth extension and mantel heat shield.

Again, thanks for everything!
 
As far as venting I personally would run insulated flex liner to a T and hide anything unsightly with an appropriate length of 8” black stove pipe that is slit and can fit around the 6” after it is installed.

Our 4 year olds first words were “hot-hot”. After mama of course. Kids learn fast. It would take more space but would it fit inside the opening top vented? My stove in my avatar, the door if flush with the face of the fireplace. 16” original hearth was enough. And just the ash lip sticks out. Downside is I need a freestanding blower in the back.

Shop on.
 
I checked the clearances and, due to the taper of the fireplace and without a hearth pad (and moving it further into the room), I'd only have about 5" at the back for venting unless I started knocking 3-4 courses of bricks out. So, I think I'd need a shorter, shallower, or top venting freestanding unit. Or again, an insert.
 
Alright y'all. Found a used Answer for $600. Gonna see how old it is and gauge my interest/willingness to drive the hour and spend the cash.

It seems like a good candidate to sit entirely within the existing fireplace and not have to worry about any clearances. I know it's definitely not half as cool as the Fireview and won't put out nearly as much heat for as long as the 1800i, but the price seems right given our current level of investment and I can always upgrade down the road.

Also, I figure I can make it look like an insert with some bent steel and a rattle can if the boss doesn't dig it.

Can I pretty much butt it up to the back wall of the fireplace without issue?

Let me know if I'm goin' down a bad road.

Thanks as always.
 
Alright y'all. Found a used Anser for $600. Gonna see how old it is and gauge my interest/willingness to drive the hour and spend the cash.

It seems like a good candidate to sit entirely within the existing fireplace and not have to worry about any clearances. I know it's definitely not half as cool as the Fireview and won't put out nearly as much heat for as long as the 1800i, but the price seems right given our current level of investment and I can always upgrade down the road.

Also, I figure I can make it look like an insert with some bent steel and a rattle can if the boss doesn't dig it.

Can I pretty much butt it up to the back wall of the fireplace without issue?

Let me know if I'm goin' down a bad road.

Thanks as always.
You will need a fan back there. The Answer is small. As for clearances, and I’m not expert, I’m guessing they don’t change based on how far in the fireplace the stove sits. Is a hearth instal. And clearances are listed in the manual with no variance for how far in or out of the fireplace. Further back makes it safer but it wasn’t tested so we have to use the clearances listed in the manual. Look them up.

As far as small stoves go. I have a 1.7 cu ft Jotul F400. Pushed hard it needs reloaded every 3-4 hours. It can throw some heat but take a lot of reloading. We have it because it came the the color we wanted. The larger one didn’t. As a supplement it works great. Trying to heat 100% with a small stove in a big space means loading at 11pm and 3-4 am if it’s cold. Not my jam. Hate hearing the heatpump kick on so we have some cold early mornings.

I think you need to embrace the reality and if redoing the trim. Turning a stove into an insert when there are inserts available with tax credits and warranty (guessing liner insulation appliance adapter and top plate will be close to 1k$) isn’t the path I would take. I get that energy costs are up now but stoves won’t pay for them selves in a year. They are part of the house’s infrastructure. If looks are important out a $$$ amount on it. We did. I love the way my stove looks all year round and was willing to pay more for the aesthetic.

Price out the liner and parts for the Answer install. Then then do the same for 1800i with a tax credit knowing it’s heat output is significantly more. After running a 1.7 (more like 1.4 or 1.5) cu ft stove and a 2.4 cu ft. I can’t recommend anyone choosing less than 2.0 cu ft unless you just want to heat the stove room or are heating 1000sq ft or less.

Just thoughts.
 
Still just going down the research rabbit hole.

The Princess 29 insert looks like it might work for upper clearance. (14 to trim from top of the door) I'd be an inch tall and am inch narrow for the shroud. Could I just fill that in with heat painted steel or aluminum?

Seems like a cool unit and if I'm gettin' that credit I might as well get that credit.

Also, I can't find if I'd need to actually extend the hearth or just use a pad for heating season.

Thanks for putting up with the back and forth. This is a big decision for a first-timer!
 
Could I just fill that in with heat painted steel or aluminum?
Yes, that small gap is easy to fill with a strip of angle metal or flat stock.
 
Still down in the research trenches.

Got quotes from a local dealer on the Clyde, large and medium lopi flushes, ci2700, and PE Neo 2.5. My wife and I dig the flush inserts and aren't too afraid of the fan requirement.

The Clydesdale is the only one that qualifies for the credit, but I know that the revision of that model has yet to be battle tested. Getting a quote on installation too, but I kinda suspect there gonna quote real high.

Checking in on lead times for the blaze king inserts with a local dealer and gotta see how those would price out and whether or not we could get one in time.

Lastly, someone is selling a c550 for $300 a couple hours away. Someone beat me to the chase there, but guy said he'd let me know if first buyer didn't show/turned it down.

Don't know if anyone's still on the bus at this point, but I'll keep posting until I've got wood in a stove and likely thereafter.

Thanks again!
 
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Here's the current decision situation, flat liner kit cost included but could probably piece together for less. Will also need a stove board/hearth extension as well:

- P. E. Neo 2.5: Dealer can get it within a week or so. $5,000 or a bit more with block off, insulation etc

- BK Sirrocco: A bit over $4,000 after tax credit. Won't be in stock until (hopefully) late October, but my ash splits will need all of shoulder season anyhow. (If not longer)

- Clydesdale - $4,950 after credit with more for block off plate, insulation etc.

The others I've looked at (Lopi large and medium flush, Regency CI2700) range from $6,700-$6,200 respectively.

So I guess the question at this point is whether the more expensive units are worth the premium?

Worth noting that the first three listed also don't need additional heat shielding for the combustible trim above while I think the others may.

Lastly, still waiting to hear on the $300 c550.

As always, any thoughts are appreciated and have been greatly appreciated thus far.
 
Ifnibha
Here's the current decision situation, flat liner kit cost included but could probably piece together for less. Will also need a stove board/hearth extension as well:

- P. E. Neo 2.5: Dealer can get it within a week or so. $5,000 or a bit more with block off, insulation etc

- BK Sirrocco: A bit over $4,000 after tax credit. Won't be in stock until (hopefully) late October, but my ash splits will need all of shoulder season anyhow. (If not longer)

- Clydesdale - $4,950 after credit with more for block off plate, insulation etc.

The others I've looked at (Lopi large and medium flush, Regency CI2700) range from $6,700-$6,200 respectively.

So I guess the question at this point is whether the more expensive units are worth the premium?

Worth noting that the first three listed also don't need additional heat shielding for the combustible trim above while I think the others may.

Lastly, still waiting to hear on the $300 c550.

As always, any thoughts are appreciated and have been greatly appreciated thus far.
If I had a heatpump I’d choose the Neo. My thoughts are it’s not going to ever be low and slow.

Want to heat 100% with wood the BK. Over 20-25 years I’m guessing the total cost of ownership is the same between the two neo more up front BK will need cats replaced every 10-12k hours. 4 cats = 1000$.
 
The Aesthetics Committee has approved both the Princess 29 and Summit LE inserts, so those are my two current runners up. Reading posts on these now.

Love the Sirocco (flush mount-ier) look, but concerned it won't do the trick on low and slow for the 2000sq ranch in central Illinois- hence the Princess or Summit.

Will keep posting updates and likely end up with the originally mentioned Drolet if I know my usual, crazy-person, circuitous product research tendencies.

Thanks to all for the veritable mine of information throughout the years.
 
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Given prices and tax credit stuff, I am pretty solid on the princess. I could go way down the rabbit hole, but with both units being a few months out and the tax credit dropping down in January, I figure I oughta pull the trigger.

Two questions:
1) I think this was already answered, but can I use a stove board/extension during burning season to get hearth clearances? I didn't see any R values, only the word "non-combustible" in the manual.

2) Can I cut a hole in the top of my multi-flue cap and extend the liner up through it to get clearances above my other flue tiles? The multi cap is cemented in and I'd rather not mess with it more than necessary.

Those questions aside, I think my top and side clearances are good to go. I feel confident that I can fabricate or have someone fabricate a block off plate and extensions for the sides faceplate. I think the Princess can do the heating I want without too much need for the furnace.

Anything else I need to consider? Any last words?
 
Furthermore, if I can run the liner through the top of the multi-flue cap, can I avoid having to buy a top plate? The clay flue in question is like 20x20 OD and I am having a hard time finding something that'll fit, so I figure I could just put something like this on top of the multi-flue to secure the liner. https://www.plumbersstock.com/duravent-9084-6dp-vc-6in-triwall-vent-top.html

If this will work, will I just then need an appropriate length of liner, an adaptor into the unit, and aforementioned cap? Also planning on buying an insulation kit for the liner.

Thanks all.
 
Furthermore, if I can run the liner through the top of the multi-flue cap, can I avoid having to buy a top plate? The clay flue in question is like 20x20 OD and I am having a hard time finding something that'll fit, so I figure I could just put something like this on top of the multi-flue to secure the liner. https://www.plumbersstock.com/duravent-9084-6dp-vc-6in-triwall-vent-top.html

If this will work, will I just then need an appropriate length of liner, an adaptor into the unit, and aforementioned cap? Also planning on buying an insulation kit for the liner.

Thanks all.
The top plate seals the old flue so it’s important. Insulation and a blockoff plate are important too. Cleaning bottom up?
 
Good to know on the top plate. I know I'd seen other installations where they use insulation ther as well. I imagine I could either fabricate a top plate or have one fabricated pretty easily?

And insulation and block-off plate are definitely part of the plan.

Not sure on cleaning- that is a road I figured I'd cross when the time came. What are the considerations with that?

Thank you!
 
Good to know on the top plate. I know I'd seen other installations where they use insulation ther as well. I imagine I could either fabricate a top plate or have one fabricated pretty easily?

And insulation and block-off plate are definitely part of the plan.

Not sure on cleaning- that is a road I figured I'd cross when the time came. What are the considerations with that?

Thank you!
Getting up on the roof or not. Top down without poking through the multi cap means removing the multi cap. Bottom up with a soot eater is popular.

I chose top down withe my multi cap. Can pull baffles and clean clean with stove closed let sit a few minimum and no mess inside. Both get done at once with very little extra effort.

FWIW I did not need to extend my flue. The cap is screwed to the exapanded metal which looked screwed down then a new patch crown put on.
 
Update:

Bought the Princess Insert. Should be coming in here shortly (paid for it in like January...). Bought a flex liner, insulation kit, elbow, some sheet steel, a rain cap, and some rockwool- so hopefully once I've got a bit of time I can start making headway.

I'll snap some pics and hopefully be able to share the payoff here in the winter.

Thanks again to all
 
Congrats. With dry wood that should perform nicely.
 
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Blaze King Princess insert installed.

Thanks again, all.

PXL_20230916_200425667.MP.jpg
 
Looks great. I had to take a second look to make sure it was a Princess