Actual Heating Efficiency Specs Not Available?

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RSole

Member
Jan 13, 2016
11
Kweebecque
My steel plate Regency F3100 does not put out much heat compared to the Vermont Castings Resolute and Dutchwest stoves that I had years ago. This is my first steel stove with insulating bricks and insulating shields
on the back and sides. This thing devours wood without warming up the house much.
.
When manufacturers state efficiency numbers I believe they refer to how much of the wood is converted to heat not how efficient that heat is transferred into the space that needs to be heated. All that shielding and bricks would make for a great baking oven in that all the heat is kept inside the stove and ends up going out the chimney, very efficiently, mind you.
I've read the arguments that the bricks are there to keep the firebox hot to keep the wood burning well, but I think that that is propaganda by the manufacturers. The real and only intent of the bricks (in my opinion) is to protect the stove steel from warping.and causing customer dissatisfaction. For maximum heat transfer a stove should have as little material as practically possible between the burning. fuel and the room requiring the heat, and insulating bricks would drastically reduce the heat transfer, meaning much lower efficiency.

I believe that my Regency is rated at 80% "efficient" which implies that if I took 80% of the daily wood consumption and burned it in the open on my concrete basement floor, I would get the same heat output as 100% of daily consumption inside the stove. I think 80% of the heat goes up the chimney. My next stove will be cast iron, not insulated and shielded like my self-cleaning oven with is designed intentionally to keep the heat in, just like the steel/brick stove.

p.s. I joined just to post this opinion and wonder what others think.
When I signed up I had to answer a verification question which was:"What do you burn in a stove? (four letters)" I though the answer could be either food, coal or wood. I guess I answered correctly since here I am.
 
You are doing something wrong if you aren't getting heat out of that bad boy. It's rated at 80K BTU input & at 75.4% efficiency, you will get 60K + BTU output. If you claim the heat is going up your chimney, then you either forgot to put the baffles in the fire box, or they are installed incorrectly. The Regency 3100 free-standing stove & insert are KICK A$$ heating units.
 
It might help to also know how you are running the stove . . . i.e. the temp on the stove and stove pipe, when do you cut back on the air (at what temps), how well seasoned the wood is, etc.
 
Yeah, I've read lots of posts on various sites about how great this stove is. The stove is cleaned by me every year, I replaced the baffle at the top of the stove box with a new one a year ago and it is installed correctly. I burn pine, spruce, oak, maple, cedar logs which are over three years seasoned in my basement... it makes no difference , air intake wide open with roaring flames or partially closed. With my cast iron stoves I had to strip down to my underwear (not a pretty sight) an hour after firing up, even with unseasoned wood, but with the Regency the only real sense of heat is from the window and the top. This stove is certified for mobile home use with really small clearances and it would work well in a small home.

With all the shielding and bricks it makes sense that not much heat is radiated and that any heat that manages to escape is mainly through convection between the stove and shields. It's really too bad because this stove has a lifetime warranty and is almost indestructible.
 
Interesting. I had the I3100L & MY home was never warmer.
Had to close off the bedrooms or I couldn't sleep without
sweating my a$$ off.
What is the configuration of your connector & chimney?
Straight run? Offsets? How high is the cap? In line damper?
 
There is plenty of air blowing in from the air inlet just on the other side of the glass, it seems, as the coals get almost white hot at that point. The stove exhaust is 6" but expands immediately to an 8" stove pipe going vertically for 3 feet, then 90 degree bend and another 3 feet to the basement wall where it enters a masonry chimney (8" x 8" flue) and up about 20 feet to the anus, er, I mean top of chimney. I realize that the pipe should be 6" all the way, but I have to match the 8" wall orifice. No in-line damper, the only intake control is the rod on the side of the stove.
I intend to install a stainless chimney next year, 6" inside diameter straight up from the stove to the roof, just for cleaning ease and hopefully to increase efficiency, no matter what stove is under it.
 
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