Advice. Removal of roof rafters and ceiling joists.

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New Member
Aug 26, 2025
3
PA
Forgive me my nomenclature regarding structural components may be incorrect.

I am no stranger to burning or installing woodstoves.
However, every install to date has been pretty straightforward.
From penetrating ceiling drywall to open sky, I've done all the work myself.

This time, as you may have guessed by the thread title, I've run into a bit of a pickle.

The house is a one level ranch.
It has a very small footprint.
It is square, maybe 50' per side and has concrete block walls from roof to footer.
Almost like a garage type structure but with a basement lol.

The roof has a central peak with four equal sides, the slope is not super steep but I am unsure what it really is.

In the unfinished attic you are basically walking on the ceiling joists, no flooring.
It appears to not be trusses.

Where I have to put the stove (about 8' from a corner and 8" out from the wall) there is a ceiling joist and directly above that is a roof rafter.

84" floor to ceiling.
Drolet 1800.
Supervent pipe.
Square cathedral ceiling box.

I have done a fair amount of research.

I would have to remove about 18" of a ceiling joist.
If I:

Parallel sister each ceiling joist 10' on each side of the one I cut and perpendicular box in my square with double pieces.
Then use a 2× screwed from the top down, to bridge from the wall across 5 joists on each side.

Repeat this process to the rafter under the roof deck.

Before cutting anything, use a 2× screwed from the top down, to bridge from the wall across 5 joists on each side of my cut.

Use a 2× screwed from the down, to bridge from across 5 rafters on each side of my cut.

Use a 2× to join the joists to the rafters above in several places.

17' of class A will be hang on this.....
Will this come crashing down or sag over time?

The other option is have the cathedral ceiling box farther into the room than the stove.
Maybe 24 inches.
Which I obviously not want to do.
 
This question has come up before. I'm not a carpenter but if I recall correctly the solution is to box frame in the area between adjacent joists. Another option is to do a simple offset in the stove pipe to align to the support box.
 
Forgive me my nomenclature regarding structural components may be incorrect.

I am no stranger to burning or installing woodstoves.
However, every install to date has been pretty straightforward.
From penetrating ceiling drywall to open sky, I've done all the work myself.

This time, as you may have guessed by the thread title, I've run into a bit of a pickle.

The house is a one level ranch.
It has a very small footprint.
It is square, maybe 50' per side and has concrete block walls from roof to footer.
Almost like a garage type structure but with a basement lol.

The roof has a central peak with four equal sides, the slope is not super steep but I am unsure what it really is.

In the unfinished attic you are basically walking on the ceiling joists, no flooring.
It appears to not be trusses.

Where I have to put the stove (about 8' from a corner and 8" out from the wall) there is a ceiling joist and directly above that is a roof rafter.

84" floor to ceiling.
Drolet 1800.
Supervent pipe.
Square cathedral ceiling box.

I have done a fair amount of research.

I would have to remove about 18" of a ceiling joist.
If I:

Parallel sister each ceiling joist 10' on each side of the one I cut and perpendicular box in my square with double pieces.
Then use a 2× screwed from the top down, to bridge from the wall across 5 joists on each side.

Repeat this process to the rafter under the roof deck.

Before cutting anything, use a 2× screwed from the top down, to bridge from the wall across 5 joists on each side of my cut.

Use a 2× screwed from the down, to bridge from across 5 rafters on each side of my cut.

Use a 2× to join the joists to the rafters above in several places.

17' of class A will be hang on this.....
Will this come crashing down or sag over time?

The other option is have the cathedral ceiling box farther into the room than the stove.
Maybe 24 inches.
Which I obviously not want to do.
Can you move the stove position, or does it need to be in a certain spot? I know sometime guys start in the ceiling, and find the spot in between joists, and then see where a straight run of pipe would end up down below. I am not a carpenter either, but it's only the ceiling being held up by the joists, so you should be able to tie the cut ends back into the remaining ones by going at 90 degrees with a 2x8 on top of the existing on edge. Not sure if there is a metal hanger that you could use?
 
Unfortunately, moving the stove is not an option, this is a small place and the room has an odd layout.

It is the 1st joist and rafter from an exterior wall, the front of the house.

Everything would be done with simpson brackets and structural lags.

I am not well-versed in this so I am paranoid.
Many references to not do this, get an engineer, your house will suffer an adverse effect, etc.

Under tension, compressive load, etc.
I can read and understand the terms but determining what is going on up there, I am not sure of.

I know that they are not engineered trusses.

If I knew my plan would work, I am capable of doing the work to a high standard.
 
Do do it properly would probably require a permit, a structural engineer, and a contractor. As BG said, it would be better to offset the stove pipe. The pipe from the stove to the ceiling box is easier to work with than that work in the attic that you really shouldn't do.
 
Sistering the joists and rafters and adding the header is standard framing when cutting existing structural members. The sisters must go to load bearing walls, you can't just slap another piece of wood on the sides. You are removing a piece of wood that works together with the pieces around it. You just have to transfer that load properly. You can research framing skylights to get more framing details.
 
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Well..... I suppose I should just use two 45° elbows and place the cathedral box between the next set of joists / rafters out from the stove...

I am really concerned this will negatively impact the stoves draft.
Every install that I've done has been straight up with no offsets.

The whole chimney from stove top to cap will be 15'.... maybe 18'.

It will certainly be a lot easier this route although I am not happy about it lol.