Air leaks on a Timber Ridge 55-TRPEP

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Eric Bommer

Member
Dec 19, 2012
44
Kewaskum, Wi.
Well after a couple of years or struggling to get my stove working correctly I think I have it diagnosed. My stove is as tight as a 100 year old farm house with broken windows.

I feel bad that it took me this long to find all my issues, but this was my first stove and I assumed it was assembled correctly.

The first thing I notice a while ago was the door gasket had gaps and the ash pan fits like it was made for a different stove. I had some gasket materiel so I added additional gasket material to both the door and ash pan. But the burn was still bad(burn pot full of clinkers after 24 hrs). The door will now hold a piece of paper in all locations. I still can't get the ash pan tight, but with double gasket material it passes the flame test.

This year I finally found a big air leak in a very small section on the front glass panel. Its along the vertical side. The glass is only held in on the top and bottom. So I filled the gap with the same adhesive for the door gasket. Even after filling the gap I was still getting a bad burn.

After a few cleanings I noticed a hole though the ashes around the burn pot. After closer inspection I realized the cradle for the burn pot is not flat and the burn pot rocks. So a added gasket materiel under the burn pot.

So I had a leaky door, ash draw, glass and burn pot. My exhaust fan connection seems good. So after 4 years I can finally run my stove for a day and have no clickers in the burn pot. Yeah, I have learned a lot.

Now I have 3 problems that I am not sure what to do:

1. Now my stove is working a little to well(I guess I am never happy). I have the feed and blower both set to 4 and the stove is regularly over temping. I can tell because the blower fan goes max high and I am also noticing the burn pot is being damage. I have lowered the air setting from 1-5-1 (Englander recommendation ) to 1-3-1. Now I only hear the high fan occasionally, but should it ever being coming on? Not sure if there is more I can do to cool off the burn a little more to reduce any chance for damage.

2. The door is not square to the stove. I measured the distance from the door to the stove and its 1" by the hinges and 7/8" by the latch and top and bottom. I would like to go to a single gasket, instead of 2 pieces(1 on the door and 1 on the stove). The englander gasket is 3/4" and is to thin. I could use a 1" gasket for the hinge area and a 7/8" for the rest of the door. I am worried if I go 1" I might have issues closing the door but if I go small I will leak by the hinges. Any recommendation?

3. Curious is anyone has change the latch on ash door to something that would work. I think it needs something that pulls from the center of the ash draw.

Thanks
 
I don't have that stove, but understand your issues.

1. Clean that thing. Hard. Leaf blower style cleaning. First I cleaned all ash out of the stove. Then I hooked a leaf blower up to my exhaust and with the door open, let 'er rip on high. Went inside and hit everything with compressed air. Since there was such a wicked suction, it all goes out the pipe and not in the house. This resolved my over temp issue. Stove has not done it since. I will never put off a deep clean again.

2. I actually just added some flat 5/8 gasket to the front of my stove. It provides a much better seal for the door rope gasket and I have been happy I did it.

3. Not a clue, sorry. No ash door here. LOL my stove is a base model.
 
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