An installer came out today

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sculptor

Member
Hearth Supporter
Sep 22, 2009
197
central nc
I told him I was purchasing a Sampson vent kit (out and up). He told me you don't need it, you just need to go out and that's it. :eek:hh: I asked him about negative draft and he said it's only an issue when you are not using the OAK. Is this correct?
 
sculptor said:
I told him I was purchasing a Sampson vent kit (out and up). He told me you don't need it, you just need to go out and that's it. :eek:hh: I asked him about negative draft and he said it's only an issue when you are not using the OAK. Is this correct?
He may be right but i would still put at least 3' of verticle rise in it.
 
Clay H said:
He may be right but i would still put at least 3' of verticle rise in it.

I agree w/ Clay, but IMO, you should go 4-5 ft. up.

Have you gotten more than 1 installers opinion?

Go to this link, input your zip code....gives list of installers in your area. maybe get a 2nd or 3rd opinion (and price).

www.stovesdirect.com/installers.php
 
Thanks to you both. Macman, you come through again with another link to help me out. Many thanks!
 
sculptor said:
Thanks to you both. Macman, you come through again with another link to help me out. Many thanks!

Thanks sculptor and Jay....I do what I can to help my fellow pelletheads :)

But in all honesty, Mike Holton is the one who originally posted that link to the Zoobler Installers site.....he should get all the credit. All I did was bookmark it.

Mike is the man!!
 
The reading I have been doing in preparation to my first pellet stove says either up and out or out and up. Even the downloaded manual pictures this. I'm just wondering if I'm reading this wrong and let the installer do his thing. I hate to ask again because if it's not something members are interested in answering the first time...
But does anyone have a vent that goes straight out?
 
sculptor said:
....But does anyone have a vent that goes straight out?
Yes, I'm sure there are plenty of members here that do a straight horizontal exhaust.

My current stove owners manual states "We recommend a minimum of three feet (3’) of vertical pipe with a 90-degree turn away from the house. At this point, a one-foot (1’) section and horizontal cap will complete the installation"
 
RE: Does anyone have an install with a straight exhaust run?

My brother-in-laws stove installer used a straight out exhaust for his Englander.

He had problems with draft in moderate wind conditions and smoke back if the power went out.

Thanks to information posted in this forum, I convinced him to add a vertical run of at least 5'.

He finally did and is much happier with the performance of the stove.

His installer never would admit that a vertical run would be a good idea.

Ranger
 
macman said:
Clay H said:
He may be right but i would still put at least 3' of verticle rise in it.

I agree w/ Clay, but IMO, you should go 4-5 ft. up.

Have you gotten more than 1 installers opinion?

Go to this link, input your zip code....gives list of installers in your area. maybe get a 2nd or 3rd opinion (and price).

www.stovesdirect.com/installers.php

Good grief, the saga continues... I called the first person on the list of installers from the link provided. He comes out and then tells me he has never seen or installed a vent kit like the one I ordered (vent pro from duravent). He looked at my fireplace and said "I'd just run it right up the chimney with no liner" :snake: My house is about 137 yrs old! I told him I have a ss chimney liner inside but I opted to go outside of it because I thought it would be easier access for cleaning and install. He says I can use the liner but he would have to take it out to connect the pipe, and he'll pick up a galvanized adapter to go from 3" to the 6" liner, but either way he will charge me $600 to attach it to the liner or to cut two holes in my chimney and install my vent kit. I asked him why it is so high when he sounds like he doesn't know what he's doing. He said he will have to cut a big hole in the chimney so "I can put my hands in there and work, and then mortar up the bricks when I'm done" 8-/ I asked him if he owns a tape measure? I told him I will have to think about it and he asked for $25 to come out. He left empty handed.

I am thinking I may need to pay one of you knowledgeable folks to come down here and install it. :lol:
 
sculptor said:
.....He looked at my fireplace and said "I'd just run it right up the chimney with no liner" :snake: My house is about 137 yrs old!.....

:gulp: OK, cross him off the list!!
 
Ok I contacted the third guy on the list because he listed pellet stoves and he said he has never gone through the masonry outside....ever. He said he finds it hard to believe the manufacturer recommends that. He said I would need to know if the manufacturer allows to go from 3" vent to 6" liner that is about 30+ ft height. He said he didn't really want to install the vent kit out and up, but he may come out and see if can install it using the liner, after I find out if I can go from 3" to 6" and then he would have to install a 3" liner inside of my 6" liner if I can't....sigh


the next guy is 68 miles away and the price is going north!
 
Sometimes I wonder if some of these "Professionals" have not just paid to have their name and speciallity listed. It seems clear that either they don't know what they are doing, as in never having done it before, or they are just trying to escalate the cost to do it. I hate to be tough on someone who has come out to give you a price when I have not seen what they are up against. I looked at the link that macman posted and thought neat. To bad you are having a hard time getting good info on your install.

Bkins
 
Maybe I'm all wet, I mean after all, I'm basically a newb when it comes to this stuff, but in my way of thinking, heat rises, taking what smoke there is in the stove/flue system with it, up and out. If you have a straight out pipe, then the only force you have pushing the smoke, etc out is the pressure of the blowers in the stove...if you lose power or the wind (read outside pressure) overcomes the internal pressure of the blowers, then you're going to get smoke inside the house because you've basically lost all your draft.

The vertical component of the flue allows the rising hot air to pull the smoke out if and when you lose power or wind overcomes the internal flue pressure of the exhaust system of the stove.

I know several people that installed stoves with the straight out pipe and by the the end of the heating season, they had put a 5-6 foot verticle rise on their flue and they said it made all the difference in the world...looking at it logically, I can certainly see why.
 
timbo said:
Maybe I'm all wet, I mean after all, I'm basically a newb when it comes to this stuff, but in my way of thinking, heat rises, taking what smoke there is in the stove/flue system with it, up and out. If you have a straight out pipe, then the only force you have pushing the smoke, etc out is the pressure of the blowers in the stove...if you lose power or the wind (read outside pressure) overcomes the internal pressure of the blowers, then you're going to get smoke inside the house because you've basically lost all your draft.

The vertical component of the flue allows the rising hot air to pull the smoke out if and when you lose power or wind overcomes the internal flue pressure of the exhaust system of the stove.

I know several people that installed stoves with the straight out pipe and by the the end of the heating season, they had put a 5-6 foot verticle rise on their flue and they said it made all the difference in the world...looking at it logically, I can certainly see why.

YOU my friend are no longer a newb! That is precisely why you need a rise (up) ;-)
 
I have a saint croix afton bay and have it vented straight out with a 45 on the end . I have an OAK and it is in the windy side of the house, Have never had any issues, but have never had the power go out either. I think that if I had to do it again I would do it the same way as i have it now.
 
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