Another Duravent Stove Adapter/Damper Question

[timfromohio]

I was reading Highbeam's recent thread on his install using Duravent DVL and his trouble with the damper/adapter section. I used the exact same setup to vent a Napolean 1150p - adapter/damper section directly on the stove's top vent section, followed by telescoping section, right into ceiling support box.

My question is on the adapter/damper section. I believe that the instructions detailed installing it with the tapered end of the adapter INSIDE of the collar/vent on the stove - this is correct, right? When mounted on the Napolean, the adapter does not fit all the way down so that it's flush with the stove top. The height of the collar/vent on the stove does not allow for it. I simply shoved the adapter/damper section on as far as it would go - seemed tight - no side-to-side play like Highbeam described. I burned last winter without any problems, but reading Highbeam's thread got me paranoid and I wanted to make sure I installed correctly.

Also, for what it's worth, I did use the screws in the middle of the telescoping section and do get cracking/pinging noises on heat up and cool down sometimes.

 

[hibeam]

I never expected the outside of the adapter section to bottom out on the stove. Having the inside tapered part bottom out and make a seal is what you want. You know the seal is decent if you can't easily rotate the stove pipe. When my recent project went south I could easily rotate the whole pipe assembly and move it side to side slightly at the stove, obviously not a good seal.

All stove pipes make noise when they heat up.

 

[timfromohio]

Hibeam - when you installed the damper/adapter, the tapered section goes on the inside of the collar/vent section that sticks up from the stove - right? Just wanted to make sure. I could not easily rotate the adapter section around once I shoved it on the top of the stove vent.

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

there should be a 1/4 inch gap from the stove top to the bottom of the adapter. This allows proper airflow through the DVL. If its more then a 1/4 your ok too. Just make sure you have a good seal between the inner colar of the adapter and the stove.

 

[John_M]

Tim, You are right; the tapered end of the adapter goes into the flue on top of the stove. With the taper inside the flue any creosote that drips down inside the stove pipe will drip into the stove and reburn instead of dripping onto the outside of the stove or stovepipe where it can make a real mess.

Also pay attention to what MSG said about the important little gap at the bottom of the outside piece of DVL pipe. That gap allows air to rise between the walls of the pipe thereby keeping the outside of the pipe much cooler.

Good luck, John_M

 

[timfromohio]

Thanks guys. John_M and MSG - I do have at least a 1/4" gap there, so I'm OK. I thought I had installed it correctly (and it burned just fine last winter), but got paranoid there for a minute reading Highbeam's thread and got to thinking about just how I installed it.

Thanks again!

 

[hibeam]

Mine was obviously not a nice tight fit. It clunked onto something and then wobbled and rotated easily. With all of those crimps properly engaging on a stove collar it should not easily spin and rather than clunking down into place I would expect it to wedge into place slowly as the crimps tighten up in the collar. I wish it could have worked, now I may need to experiment with the intake tube to try and choke it down there.

 

[timfromohio]

Hibeam - in retrospect, I'm not sure why I put the damper on my stove. It seemed like a good idea at the time, but I've never used its capability. Always left it in the fully open position. You are installing a Hearthstone Heritage, right? Do you think that the air intake control on the stove will not be sufficient?

 

[Highbeam]

I have used my Heritage for the last two years and shoved 11.5 cords through it. I wasn't installing a new stove but trying to add the damper to my existing installation. I know that the air control is not sufficient to slow down certain fires. I believe it is caused by the secondary air supply that is always wide open on most stoves and the only way to slow down that air supply is by a damper in the flue or by somehow blocking the intake which on my install is plumbed into an outside air line.

What I wanted was to be able to control the stove with the help of a flue thermometer to extend burns and to also prevent runaways.

 

[John_M]

Highbeam, I also wanted to install an adapter w/damper on top of my stove for the same reasons you state. However, the two or three dealers I talked to strongly recommended I not do it. I have forgotten the reasons why except one: One cannot push a cleaning brush fully down through the stove pipe with the damper in place. So, I didn't do it.

John_M

 

[Highbeam]

I could live with the cleaning issue. Instead, I put in a flue thermometer!