any one really had to rebuild a cast iron stove?

[Bobcatter]

I'm looking to replace a cast iron basement stove that I have had for 24 years and have burned for 12. I like the cast iron radiant heat and don't have any clearance issues. It is a Coalbrookdale Much Wenlock. Even though it has been moved several times (by myself and a hand cart up and "gasp" down steps, it as tight as it was on day one. Pic attached.

During my research, I have run across statements that say something along the lines "of course, you will have to rebuild a cast iron stove to replace the stove cement and make it air tight again". Some of these questions centered on quality cast iron stoves like Lopi Leyden, one of the stove I am considering.

So, my question: has anyone actually used a cast iron stove to the point that it "had to be rebuilt" and how much use did it take? "Burning 24/7 for 6 months a year it took 5 years" is the type of feedback I need. I don't want re-quotes of what others have said, I'm looking for first hand experience.

Thanks all, I enjoy this forum!

 

[LeonMSPT]

My VC insert is supposed to be done preventive maintenance wise, as far as I know, every 3-5 years. To my knowledge, it was done when it was installed by the previous owner in the early 90's. I've burned it "hard" for five years. It could be done this summer, and I am going to take it on as soon as the season is over. If I screw something up, I've got all summer to fix it or replace it. Nothing to lose... it's more than paid for itself at the 150 bucks the guy paid for it, and the 200 he paid to rebuild it.

I will disassemble it as much as I can in place, lighten it up... pull it and bench in downstairs in the basement shop... take it apart, clean it up good and repaint it... I suspect initial burns in the fall will need to be "break in burns" until it reseats itself and gets itself expanded and settled back into running shape.

Hope it was helpful. All I have to offer...

My understanding is that some "weasel piss" will be necessary, as well as a health dose of elbow grease... and maybe a drill and proper sized taps, and a careful hand.

I'm looking to replace a cast iron basement stove that I have had for 24 years and have burned for 12. I like the cast iron radiant heat and don't have any clearance issues. It is a Coalbrookdale Much Wenlock. Even though it has been moved several times (by myself and a hand cart up and "gasp" down steps, it as tight as it was on day one. Pic attached.

During my research, I have run across statements that say something along the lines "of course, you will have to rebuild a cast iron stove to replace the stove cement and make it air tight again". Some of these questions centered on quality cast iron stoves like Lopi Leyden, one of the stove I am considering.

So, my question: has anyone actually used a cast iron stove to the point that it "had to be rebuilt" and how much use did it take? "Burning 24/7 for 6 months a year it took 5 years" is the type of feedback I need. I don't want re-quotes of what others have said, I'm looking for first hand experience.

Thanks all, I enjoy this forum!

 

[elmoleaf]

I rebuilt my used stove in 2005 when I bought it.
This year, I discovered a substantial air leak along a vertical side seam between the left and front plates. Not sure why it happened, but everywhere else seems solid. I burn nights and weekends only. No 24/7.

In general, I don't think furnace cement holds up too well over time between castings. It's hard and rigid, while castings want to expand and contract as they heat and cool.

 

[LeonMSPT]

VC actually makes some stuff that you load into a caulking gun... doesn't look like furnace cement, but I can say for sure exactly what it is... hardens into a grey "bead", and seems pretty solid... where I can still see some around the seams in mine... mostly all gone now.

I rebuilt my used stove in 2005 when I bought it.
This year, I discovered a substantial air leak along a vertical side seam between the left and front plates. Not sure why it happened, but everywhere else seems solid. I burn nights and weekends only. No 24/7.

In general, I don't think furnace cement holds up too well over time between castings. It's hard and rigid, while castings want to expand and contract as they heat and cool.

 

[hardcore]

I'm interested in Rebuilds as well. I just purchased a used jotul f500. It looks to be in great condition. How does one tell if it needs to be rebuilt? Any tests you can do?

 

[swestall]

I've rebuild a few. Your stove doesn't look like a new EPA stove. It is hard to tell from the pictures if it is airtight either. The door/window look pretty open. Is there glass there or mica. I can't tell how old it is.
You should be able to see light shining through the seams if you put a bright trouble light in the stove in a very dark room.
That stove looks like a nice old piece. It most likely burns pretty nice and uses a bit of wood. I like the old units. Not for primary long burns, but for the basement, shop, etc. But even that depends on how much wood you have. And, you do have to watch the chimney for build up.

 

[LeonMSPT]

When it's burning, is all the fire on one side when you cut the air back? If so, you've got a little leak right there bub...

Runaway fire is a good indicator there is a major leak, but with small leaks you'll get changes in flame dispersion and pattern, location.... shorter burn times.

I've rebuild a few. Your stove doesn't look like a new EPA stove. It is hard to tell from the pictures if it is airtight either. The door/window look pretty open. Is there glass there or mica. I can't tell how old it is.
You should be able to see light shining through the seams if you put a bright trouble light in the stove in a very dark room.
That stove looks like a nice old piece. It most likely burns pretty nice and uses a bit of wood. I like the old units. Not for primary long burns, but for the basement, shop, etc. But even that depends on how much wood you have. And, you do have to watch the chimney for build up.

 

[begreen]

I rebuilt our Jotul 602 after about 20 years of regular service. The burn plates were cracked and warped; the back had overheated and cracked, so they were replaced. It was a great experience and went much faster than expected. The stove behaved wonderfully after the rebuild. Much better than I had experienced in many years.

 

[BrotherBart]

I rebuilt my Jotul F3 CB after the installers dropped it and broke the front casting. And then the dealer went bankrupt before he got the replacement casting.

It was OK though. a dealer on the Forum got me the casting for $160 and I bought the bankrupt dealer's inventory of Jotul gas stoves from his bank and made $23,000 profit selling them. :coolgrin: