pen said:I'm no butcher but I've always used mineral oil. It doesn't go rancid and is tasteless.
pen
BeGreen said:Mineral oil is what you want to use if this is going to be a cutting surface, no wax. Otherwise seal it up. We have a butcherblock pantry counter that I sealed with polyurethane 15 years ago. It's standing up well and remains easy to clean, but looking like new.
djblech said:I used this recipe on a kitchen table, it is a rubbing vanish. Equal parts turpentine, spar varnish, and bee's wax. Wipe on, let sit for 30 min wipe off. Let dry for 8 hrs repeat. I think I would use a mineral oil base finish if the block was going to see heavy use.
Doug
CTwoodburner said:If they are going to be used, mineral oil is the stuff. Heavily used cutting boards need weekly/monthly application of mineral oil as well as an occasional sanding and reapplication of oil.
Clarkbug said:I like the idea of walnut oil, but cant that go bad/rancid? Mineral oil is the way to go.
smokinjay said:BeGreen said:Mineral oil is what you want to use if this is going to be a cutting surface, no wax. Otherwise seal it up. We have a butcherblock pantry counter that I sealed with polyurethane 15 years ago. It's standing up well and remains easy to clean, but looking like new.
Needs to be food grade, and I am working with dry walnut. Thats the way my Dads does his butcher blocks but the way people are now polyurethane or even olive oil they flip..lol
BeGreen said:sm said:BeGreen said:Mineral oil is what you want to use if this is going to be a cutting surface, no wax. Otherwise seal it up. We have a butcherblock pantry counter that I sealed with polyurethane 15 years ago. It's standing up well and remains easy to clean, but looking like new.
Needs to be food grade, and I am working with dry walnut. Thats the way my Dads does his butcher blocks but the way people are now polyurethane or even olive oil they flip..lol
Butcher block normally means laminated maple, but no matter. Regardless of wood, if it is to be used as a cutting board for food prep it needs to be treated with an inert oil. Don't use olive oil. We use mineral oil from the pharmacy, fit for food use. If the board is not being used for cutting, but still being used for food prep, then I prefer an inert poly finish because it stands up so well. Haven't tried walnut oil, but it is said to be also ok, just be sure it's pure, with no adulterants.
http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/butcherblock.html
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/463452
zzr7ky said:Hi -
I have soem butcher blocks I got used decades ago... They see a lot of use. Mineral oil base coat, several applications especially at the end grain, heat helps.
Once it is finished I end up keeping them in good shape with a cabinet scraper. Faster and better finish than sanding.
Enjoy!
blackdoglabrador said:If it is for a counter or table try waterlux original finish. I have used is it and it still looks good after 2 years. Can be recoat quickly and easily after a couple years to refresh the finish. On the expensive side, but long lasting. A quart goes a long way.
http://www.waterlox.com/products-it...g-oil-floor-sealer-finish.aspx#/Product_Uses/
smokinjay said:blackdoglabrador said:If it is for a counter or table try waterlux original finish. I have used is it and it still looks good after 2 years. Can be recoat quickly and easily after a couple years to refresh the finish. On the expensive side, but long lasting. A quart goes a long way.
http://www.waterlox.com/products-it...g-oil-floor-sealer-finish.aspx#/Product_Uses/
Needs to be food safe. I do love the look of tung oil.
dvellone said:smokinjay said:blackdoglabrador said:If it is for a counter or table try waterlux original finish. I have used is it and it still looks good after 2 years. Can be recoat quickly and easily after a couple years to refresh the finish. On the expensive side, but long lasting. A quart goes a long way.
http://www.waterlox.com/products-it...g-oil-floor-sealer-finish.aspx#/Product_Uses/
Needs to be food safe. I do love the look of tung oil.
this is my vote as well. Pure tung oil is food safe and usually the main ingredient in some of the highest quality finishing oils. It's also more expensive than other oils but it really is a beautiful finish and very durable.
It's advantage is that once it dries it provides a very hard surface that is impervious to acids from the foods you'll be cutting on the board. Problem is that, if you're in a hurry tung oil takes a long time to dry. It's not a fast finish, though if you're after a finish without any metallic drying agents you'll be waiting a bit anyways. If you're after a true food grade finish avoid those that are fast drying products since they'll more than likely contain metallic drying agents. Land Ark finish (without mildewcide or uva) contains tung oil, is food grade and seems to dry a bit quicker. I believe their tung oil is polymerized to help it dry quicker. They make a great product but the smallest container is a gallon. I used it on my floors and counters and it holds up real well.
Also, if you plan on waxing the surface you'll want to make certain that the finish is completely dry (cured) before you apply wax.
WhitePine said:Tung oil. Here's a source. They state FDA approved for food contact.
http://www.realmilkpaint.com/oil.html
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