Ashley king 5500

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Nov 6, 2022
12
Michigan
I'm struggling over here . My other half had a stroke and this thing isn't properly working for me and I don't know what I'm doing wrong

Burning black , glass inside - everything
Using pro pellets .
Dropping way too many pellets .
Not heating the way it did last yr .
Hr the the ( -4 ) are blinking .
Pellets pr hr 1.43 - 1.73.
the exhaust and room fans i set both on H .
What am I missing .
Yes I vaccuum this thing out .
Home is 70x 28. We are the second owners .
 
Hr the the ( -4 ) are blinking
quickly or slowly?

Quickly Flashing Heat Range Setting Indicator (changes twice per second): This indicates that
the stove is in normal operation and that an over-temperature condition exists causing the fuel to
stop.

Slowly Flashing Heat Range Setting Indicator (changes once per second): This indicates that
the stove is in a cut back condition in an attempt to prevent an over-temperature shutdown

he exhaust and room fans i set both on H .
The four button controller for this stove does not have a H ( high ) it has numbers either 1-5 or 1-9 and then automatic mode which displays rf a for room fan and df a for exhaust fan. You can run your room fan on any setting the stove will not allow you to go any lower fan speed then one number above the heat setting number best to set it at rf a or rf 9, The exhaust fan should also work in df a letting the stove control the exhaust fan speed if it is set on the highest number there will be to much draft some times making fire burn to hot.

Does this look like your controller?

1669129191810.png

Pellets pr hr 1.43 - 1.73
Where are you getting these numbers from they are normally viewed when in the C codes. The default factory rates should be (C2) HR 1 1.75 and (C3) HR 9 set at 4.75. All the other heat range pellets per hr are set by the stove between these two numbers and can not be changed individually . Maybe your other half changed these rates which is fine. Check the C codes and write down the settings in C2 and C3 that way you can always go back to those settings. You can fine instructions for C codes in the Trouble Shooting Manual.


Dropping way too many pellets
To many pellets and exhaust fan all the way up will cause a overheat and stove will cut back to cool itself off. With to many pellets the stove starts choking and burning dirtier and glass gets black faster. Most stoves glass will get soot on it it is just a matter on how fast it happens.

Try resetting to factory defaults

Factory Defaults: To return the control to its original factory default settings, Press and hold the
AUX UP and AUX DOWN buttons together for three seconds.

Attached is the operators manual and the trouble shooting/tech manual for your stove.
 

Attachments

  • 5500-Series-Owners-Manual.pdf
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  • usstove tech manual 5500M & 5500XL King ABC & 4 Digit Boards.pdf
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Turn stove on and try to reset to default, you might have to try a few times as the buttons have to be pushed at the exact same time.

Try resetting to factory defaults
Factory Defaults: To return the control to its original factory default settings, Press and hold the
AUX UP and AUX DOWN buttons together for three seconds.

After you get stove reset to default press up on room fan until it says rf a press up on draft fan until it says df a. If your heat settings go from 1 to 5 set it to 3 if heat range goes 1 to 9 set it to 5. Try burning at those settings and let us know what happens.
 
Attached is the operators manual and the trouble shooting/tech manual for your stove
I think this is how I got myself into trouble .
I know we didn't use factory numbers last yr because of the utube videos that were watched , I was trying to figure out where it was set at.
Cleaned out the exhaust tube this morning . There was a lot of stuff in there .
Now still

Hr ( -5) is still blinking fast
(turned it up from -4 to try and get some heat in here last night)
Room fan is on high
Exhaust fan is at 6
Feed rate 2 for low
Feed rate 3 for top
Burning the pellets off quickly now , none are left in the burning pot .
We Have gone up a few degrees in the last hr now . But it should be heating this place quicker . Last yr we had my grandmother - may she rest in peace - and the house was always set hot for her .
Something is still wrong
Turn stove on and try to reset to default, you might have to try a few times as the buttons have to be pushed at the exact same time.

Try resetting to factory defaults
Factory Defaults: To return the control to its original factory default settings, Press and hold the
AUX UP and AUX DOWN buttons together for three seconds.

After you get stove reset to default press up on room fan until it says rf a press up on draft fan until it says df a. If your heat settings go from 1 to 5 set it to 3 if heat range goes 1 to 9 set it to 5. Try burning at those settings and let us know what happens.
I Ordered a heat sensor today.
Will give that a try tonight .


I did reset back to factory today as well but didn't see any difference and it's still blowing that Luke warm air .
 
Stove is still running in cut back mode trying to cool itself off. If your heat ranges go from 1-5 set it for 3 and put the draft fan in df a (automatic mode) or 4, or 5, stove was not designed to run on top heat mode for long periods of time I know that sounds wrong but it is what it does. My USSC 6039 has 9 heat settings I can not run it in 9 for more than 15 minutes without it going into shutdown mode and even in 8 it will sometimes shutdown. Yes you can change the pellet per hour to less and then be able to set stove to 5 but you are not getting more heat.
 
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Ordered a heat sensor today.
Could end up being the problem, check to see if it is tight were it bolts onto the exhaust blower housing and unplug and replug on the board (circled in red) to see if has good connection. Inspect wire from board to exhaust housing. White wires with cloth covering.
thermistor.jpgtemp in.jpg

What happens if you set Heat Range to Hr 1 does it stop blinking?

You also could run the board test and see what number 7 says, stove must be cool to run this test:

5500M 4 Digit Control Board Test



To run this test the UNIT MUST BE COOLED OFF. Power up the unit by plugging in the power supply cord
to the back of the unit. Press the on button and the circuit board then press and hold the Off and Auger
Delay buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds. To advance through the test press the on key. If the Heat
Range Light is on during every test check Hopper Switch Wires.



1. Exhaust Fan Output Test- The display will show “drift”. The exhaust fan is turned on full then
reduced to a level just above the typical minimum pressure switch setting. The ON LED indicates
whether the pressure sensor is detected. If the pressure switch is not detected, the fan ramps to full
on for two seconds then returns to the previously established level if the pressure switch closes. If
the Draft Fan Fuse is not blown and the fuse detection circuit is functioning, the Draft Fan LED will
be lit and the other three top row LEDs will be off.
2. Room Fan Output Test – The display will show “rfan”. The room fan is turned on full. If the Room
Fan Fuse is not blown and the fuse detection circuit is functioning, the Room Fan LED will be lit and
the other three top row LEDs will be off.
3. Igniter Output Test – The display will show “ignt”. The igniter motor is turned on full. If the Igniter
(AUX) Fuse is not blown and the fuse detection circuit is functioning, the AUX LED will lit and the
other three top row LEDs will be off.
4. Auger Output Test – The display will show “augr”. The auger motor is turned on full. If the auger
fuse is not blown and the fuse detection circuit is functioning, the Heat Range LED will be lit and the
other three top row LEDs will be off.
5. Hopper Switch Test – The display will show “hppr”. If the hopper switch is open (lid is open), the ON
LED will turn on otherwise, it will be off. If the hopper switch is wired in series with the auger, this
test is not valid, and the validation of the hopper switch should be done in the previous Auger
Output test.
6. Thermostat Input Test – The display will show “stat”. If the thermostat input is closed, the ON LED
light will be on, otherwise it will be off.
7. Flue gas Thermistor Test – The display will show the fluegas temperature in degrees F. This should
read 54° F
8. AC Frequency Test - Displays the measured AC frequency in hertz followed by the letter “H”.
This should read 59, 60, or 61H
9. Watchdog Reset – The Watchdog timer is tested to ensure that the board can be reset. The message
“BYE” will be displayed until the Watchdog resets board.
 
Could end up being the problem, check to see if it is tight were it bolts onto the exhaust blower housing and unplug and replug on the board (circled in red) to see if has good connection. Inspect wire from board to exhaust housing. White wires with cloth covering.
View attachment 303700View attachment 303701

What happens if you set Heat Range to Hr 1 does it stop blinking?

You also could run the board test and see what number 7 says, stove must be cool to run this test:

5500M 4 Digit Control Board Test



To run this test the UNIT MUST BE COOLED OFF. Power up the unit by plugging in the power supply cord
to the back of the unit. Press the on button and the circuit board then press and hold the Off and Auger
Delay buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds. To advance through the test press the on key. If the Heat
Range Light is on during every test check Hopper Switch Wires.



1. Exhaust Fan Output Test- The display will show “drift”. The exhaust fan is turned on full then
reduced to a level just above the typical minimum pressure switch setting. The ON LED indicates
whether the pressure sensor is detected. If the pressure switch is not detected, the fan ramps to full
on for two seconds then returns to the previously established level if the pressure switch closes. If
the Draft Fan Fuse is not blown and the fuse detection circuit is functioning, the Draft Fan LED will
be lit and the other three top row LEDs will be off.
2. Room Fan Output Test – The display will show “rfan”. The room fan is turned on full. If the Room
Fan Fuse is not blown and the fuse detection circuit is functioning, the Room Fan LED will be lit and
the other three top row LEDs will be off.
3. Igniter Output Test – The display will show “ignt”. The igniter motor is turned on full. If the Igniter
(AUX) Fuse is not blown and the fuse detection circuit is functioning, the AUX LED will lit and the
other three top row LEDs will be off.
4. Auger Output Test – The display will show “augr”. The auger motor is turned on full. If the auger
fuse is not blown and the fuse detection circuit is functioning, the Heat Range LED will be lit and the
other three top row LEDs will be off.
5. Hopper Switch Test – The display will show “hppr”. If the hopper switch is open (lid is open), the ON
LED will turn on otherwise, it will be off. If the hopper switch is wired in series with the auger, this
test is not valid, and the validation of the hopper switch should be done in the previous Auger
Output test.
6. Thermostat Input Test – The display will show “stat”. If the thermostat input is closed, the ON LED
light will be on, otherwise it will be off.
7. Flue gas Thermistor Test – The display will show the fluegas temperature in degrees F. This should
read 54° F
8. AC Frequency Test - Displays the measured AC frequency in hertz followed by the letter “H”.
This should read 59, 60, or 61H
9. Watchdog Reset – The Watchdog timer is tested to ensure that the board can be reset. The message
“BYE” will be displayed until the Watchdog resets board.
Hot the sensor in today , just replaced it .-2, -3,-4&-5 all still blinking. 😔🤧
 
Where are you getting these numbers
I turned down the pellets pr hr . On the high and low ends because it is feeding way more than it is burning . That was the easy part with a utube video . The rest ......... not so easy for me . I was never shown anything except how to vaccuum with the vaccuum and put pellets in the top . Other half can not talk , walk or assist with right arm . So I'm stuck trying to figure this thing out . It's our only Heat source. I've factory reset it , that didn't work , put in new Heat sensor, that didn't work. Tomorrow ill do the board test and see what that tells me . Don't want to cool it down at night or we'll freeze in here . Better to cool it down when its 27 rather than teens at night. Sorry long rant .
 
If you are just vacuuming out the burn area, then I would bet that you have ash built up somewhere along the exhaust track.

I have a different model of stove, but same manufacturer.

I have 2 small access doors/panels inside my burn area that can be removed to access the ash build up behind the burn area. Mine would do exactly what you are saying until I found them and vacuumed out the ash. (see pic below). I also use an old leaf blower to clean the exhaust. Taped a pvc reducer to it. Then it slides inside the outside of the exhaust and sucks all the ash out. (see pic)
IMG_6968.PNG

IMG_6729.JPG
 
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Can you describe your venting IE mine is 1 foot Horizontal section from back to a 45 degree , one foot out wall to clean out tee, Three feet vertical to 90 degree 1 foot horizontal to wind cap. Do you have a clean out T in venting if so were is it inside house or outside?

cleanoutT.jpg
 
After you get the chance to run the board test, depending on the results especially Number 7. What I would like you to do is go back into the C codes set C2 at 1.50 and C3 to 4.50 Set C4 to 150 C5 to 350. Then start stove set it to HR2 press room fan up until you see rf A, draft fan up until you see df A and Aux to Au A. Then press mode button to manual this will turn draft fan to full speed. When you push mode button you should be able to hear the draft fan speed up. Leave stove in manual mode until room fan comes on. By then the fire should be small , overly active and almost white in color. If the fire is weak and yellow/orange then you might have a blockage in the venting. Could be plugged holes in the fire pot, ash behind wall as jeremy6500 stated or in the vent pipe itself usually at a elbow or clean out tee.

5500M C Codes
To adjust the operation constants, press the hold the MODE and AUGER DELAY buttons simultaneously
for 3 seconds. The display will show “C-1”. Use the HEAT RANGE UP or HEAT RANGE DOWN buttons to
change the constant number (see the list of vales below). When the desired constant is displayed, press
the ON button to toggle between viewing and editing the value. While editing a parameter, use the AUX
again to return to the constant number list. Press the OFF button to exit the operational constants
mode.
 C2- Fuel Lbs. per Hour HR 1 (0-5.0) – This is the fuel rate in pounds per hour for a heat range
setting of 1. The default is 1.75 lbs.
 C3- Fuel lbs. per Hour HR 9 (0-5.0) – This is the fuel rate in pounds per hour for a heat range
setting of 5. The default is 4.5lbs. The fuel rates used between setting 1 and 5 are linearly
interpolated between these two settings.
 C4- Draft Fan Level HR 1 (0-500) – This is the draft fan output level for a draft fan setting of 9.
The default is 150
 C5- Draft Fan Level HR 9 (0-500) – This is the draft fan output level for a draft fan setting of 9.
The default is 350. See next parameter for disbursement.