Attaching stove pipe to top of stove

[HunterDan]

I am in the process of installing my grandma bear, have (I thought) all the materials. It's a 8" top vent flue. Got the stove in place, lined up everything with my cieling joists, and started to put the first damper section on the stove, and it will not slip inside (like it should), it's almost 1/3" to big. If I turn the damper upside down, it will slide over the top of the collar, but then all of my pipe would be upside down and that's not acceptable.

Is there some kind of adapter from duravent I need, or can someone please explain how I need to modify this damper to fit inside the stove collar the correct way?

 

[HunterDan]

Also, and this may be a dumb question, but in a lot of installs I've seen, most have the crimped male ends (down).

My duravent single wall has all smooth connections. Do I have to buy a crimper and crimp all those male sides? Or is the smooth connection w/3-4 screws ok?

 

[coaly]

Male end down is correct to prevent condensing liquid from leaking out. Your Dura-Vent probably has a direction of flow arrow on it as well. Smooth connection with 3 screws at each joint.

Older stoves have 6 or 8 inch OD that as you've found is quite tight. Over-crimping the male end was the norm at the stove collar. Later models have pipe made 6 or 8 inch ID to fit the stove pipe. There is a pipe adapter from Dura-Vent that works well, but for the price you may as well invest in a pair of hand crimpers if you don't have them. If you crimp it down smaller, pry outward with the crimpers as you do it to prevent a sharp inward angle making a funnel shape out of the pipe. It gets smaller and stays straighter.

A stove with rear or side vent works well to slip a Tee over the collar and cap the bottom. Condensate runs down the pipe into cap and not out the backward connection at stove. With normal and correct operation condensing liquid should be minimal and isn't an issue on a properly sized and hot chimney.

 

[HunterDan]

(broken link removed)!

Is this the adapter?

The ID of my collar is 7 3/4, and I destroyed the damper section I had trying to make it fit inside that collar. So I have to buy another damper section, so if that's the adapter, I might as well buy that now as well?

Or will an actual crimping tool make the new damper fit

Somethin like this?
(broken link removed to http://mrotools.com/wc5s-wiss-5-blade-hand-crimper-1-1-4-throat-depth.aspx?gclid=CJb5zoGlycwCFU88gQodl-YMIQ)

 

[coaly]

I would go with the crimping tool.
Nothing special about the straight pipe that a damper is installed in. No special damper section required unless it is double wall.
Search the words crimping tool on this forum for many threads with this common question;
https://www.hearth.com/talk/search/7322631/?q=crimping+tool&o=date&c[node]=28&c[user][0]=3411

 

[HunterDan]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KSD942/?tag=hearthamazon-20

This is what I had.

Should I just buy a straight piece of pipe, and buy a separate damper to put in it?

 

[coaly]

Yes, just like the damper section, it will need to be crimped smaller.
You will need a pair of hand crimpers when ever you cut a piece of pipe as well.
If you only mangled your old piece, you should be able to put it over a 2 X 4 and hammer it out as you turn it, then crimp.

 

[HunterDan]

Got it all piped up last night, thank you for the tips!

The directions for my cieling support box say min of 2" must be below the cieling drywall. I only have a little over an inch. Is this gonna be a problem?

 

[coaly]

For codes it must be 2 inches below. All installation instructions become a part of codes.
The box stays cold. I believe the reason is to prevent radiation from single wall pipe to ceiling.

Does it make much difference? May not, but the UL Listing (which means testing) on stoves and chimneys must be installed as tested. So any deviation is no longer installed as tested. That's why any modification or even burning a fuel the appliance wasn't tested with voids the UL Listing.