Austroflam Integra Not Starting

[RKBAGUY]

Cleaned and replaced my '91 Integra insert, and now she's just not going into the full startup phase. The combusion fan ramps up, only gets to a certain point, and then trottles waaaay back. Did I knock something off the connector block accidentally when I wasn't looking? Maybe a thermostat connector came loose?

Just looking for some troubleshooting help.

Thanks!

 

[RKBAGUY]

Could really use a hand here.

What would be the symptoms of a bad combusion (exhaust) blower?

 

[Mt Bob]

Get it running yet?

 

[RKBAGUY]

Get it running yet?

No. Even got a rebuilt board from Joe Narduzzi and it's doing the same thing. The fan throttles back to the point that it can't sustain the burn. And now, the convection fan is running slowly too. If you have any ideas, please let me know!

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[Mt Bob]

Well,you would have bypassed your thermostat by now,to test.The newest prom starts slow,like that,after initial start,comb. fan goes real low,but always enough to start,makes for a cleaner startup.But not your prob.I suspect poor airflow over the airflow sensor,or sensor problem.Pull sensor,inspect the pins for corrosion,and check the female connectors for tightness.Sometimes,just unplugging,replugging a few times fixes contact problems that you cannot see,on low voltage circuits.Also,can try blowing a bit of air into the intake tube,while doing the startup.A hairdryer works.No snow to plow,today will try to check in on occasion.

 

[Flammam]

Well,you would have bypassed your thermostat by now,to test.The newest prom starts slow,like that,after initial start,comb. fan goes real low,but always enough to start,makes for a cleaner startup.But not your prob.I suspect poor airflow over the airflow sensor,or sensor problem.Pull sensor,inspect the pins for corrosion,and check the female connectors for tightness.Sometimes,just unplugging,replugging a few times fixes contact problems that you cannot see,on low voltage circuits.Also,can try blowing a bit of air into the intake tube,while doing the startup.A hairdryer works.No snow to plow,today will try to check in on occasion.

I agree with the air sensor fault. mine did the same thing when My airflow sensor was dirty. Carefully clean the end of the sensor using canned air and a q tip

 

[RKBAGUY]

No luck, fellas.

Using the diagnostic in the Austroflamm manual under 'Operational Tests':
Startup: 25v (should be 40-ish)
Maximum: 40-ish, (should be 50-ish)
Full (door open): 120-ish (should be no more than 100) but auger motor does stop.
Close door: No change (120-ish)

According to the manual, it says: "If motor does not return to 40v.... [it does not], circuit board or airflow sensor is defective." However, I don't think it's the airflow sensor, because the auger stops when I open the door.The manual continues with: "If voltage is always too high (90vac or higher) and motor will not turn, then the motor may be defective.

So, not to put too fine a point on this, but for a people with a reputation for precision, this isn't exactly helpful. Would it be too much to ask WHICH circuit board is in question - there are two on this stove.

This may be helpful. On the user control board, the Hall IC test points read 1.3 volts, and if I'm not mistaken, it should be 5v. Thus, I'm inclining to the fan.

 

[Mt Bob]

When you open the door,and voltage goes up,does the motor go to max RPM's,or continue to run slow?

 

[RKBAGUY]

When you open the door,and voltage goes up,does the motor go to max RPM's,or continue to run slow?

No. Higher voltage = higher fan speed.

I also have four (yes, you read that right... 4) airflow sensors of various ages and conditions, they all but one return the same odd results.

 

[Mt Bob]

Well,if your motor did not speed up,then I agree with you,prob. is the motor assembly.Just kind of odd,unless a wire got pulled loose,or motor dropped,but is old.I know the capacitor sometimes goes bad,but never tried to find one seperate.

 

[RKBAGUY]

The fan did speed up, but only for a time. What's happening is that the normal fan speed is just not sustained. I've tried two logic boards, two user boards and four air sensors. What makes no sense to me is that the only thing I did is clean the stove.

If u have no luck today, I'll be sending everything electronic to Joe Narduzzi, but I was kinda hoping to not have to rely on a kerosene heater for a week.

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[Mt Bob]

Good morning.So,it sped up then slowed down.As the voltage is high I suspect the sensor is prob. good,and the problem is the motor/run capacitor.You can plug the motor directly into wall outlet,to see if it runs full speed.Unhook from terminal board,use the 2 spade connectors,wires are usually blue and black.Stove should be unplugged,and I reccomend unplug the 3 wire sensor plug,for this test.Will grab a motor out of the basement,in case we need to do some meter tests.

 

[RKBAGUY]

Bob, the combusion motor will run at full speed. The problem is that when everything is connected, the behavior is odd, specifically that it will eventually slow to a crawl.

My plan is to send ALL the electronics - logic board, user board and airflow sensors - to Joe Narduzzi for testing. I'm sure hell get me sorted.

I was just trying to avoid the time and expense of this step, and more importantly, the hassle of running a kerosene heater for more than a week before it's all done.

I'm sure it'll all work out in the end, but once I'm up and running, I might just list it for sale on Craigslist or Ebay.

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[Mt Bob]

Was wondering if you tried to run it at full speed/direct,for several minutes,as,when a motor start/run capacitor goes bad,it can create a situation where the motor starts off fine,then slows down after a bit,sometimes even stopping.

 

[RKBAGUY]

That's the real question, isn't it? How do you tell if a capacitor other the hall circuit is going bad?

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[Mt Bob]

Unplug hall sensor,Unplug stove.Wire combustion motor directly to wall outlet,Run 2-3 minutes.If motor slows down,or does strange tings,is bad capacitor.