Austroflamm Air Sensor

[JoeInMaryland]

Hello everyone,

My new home conveyed a 1991 Austroflamm Integra. I have completely cleaned the unit, made my own gasket for the combustion blower, and I am experiencing a major slowdown in the combustion blower. Can someone direct me to the location of the air sensor? I’m being told to clean it with compressed air. Anyone have experience with this? I do not have compressed air at home. Thanks in advance.

 

[Mt Bob]

Right side of stove(facing the stove),behind the removable panel,down low,you will see a round pipe,it is in that.I assume you know about the ports,behind the air tubes,that need to be cleaned? http://pelletstoverepair.com/IntegraTechManual.pdf

 

[JoeInMaryland]

Right side of stove(facing the stove),behind the removable panel,down low,you will see a round pipe,it is in that.I assume you know about the ports,behind the air tubes,that need to be cleaned? http://pelletstoverepair.com/IntegraTechManual.pdf

Thanks, Bob. I do. I’ve watched multiple videos on the stove. I haven’t been able to find anything on cleaning the sensor. Not sure what the procedure is.

 

[Mt Bob]

Thanks, Bob. I do. I’ve watched multiple videos on the stove. I haven’t been able to find anything on cleaning the sensor. Not sure what the procedure is.

Take the sensor out,spray it with compressed air,or,automotive MAF spray,or,just brush it off with a soft brush.Air sensors rarely fail on old austroflamms

 

[Mt Bob]

When you remove the internal cast plates,you see the air tubes.At the bottom,where they are welded in,the plate they are welded into,has small openings.You cannot see them(mostly).You have to take a bent wire and reach around,and open them up.They are the main airflow for the stove.Many people miss this,as do many "stove technicians" They are very small holes,but are the primary feature to keeping the draft working on a old integra.

 

[JoeInMaryland]

When you remove the internal cast plates,you see the air tubes.At the bottom,where they are welded in,the plate they are welded into,has small openings.You cannot see them(mostly).You have to take a bent wire and reach around,and open them up.They are the main airflow for the stove.Many people miss this,as do many "stove technicians" They are very small holes,but are the primary feature to keeping the draft working on a old integra.

I appreciate you taking the time to give me this info. I did clean that area, and the stove has been very frustrating. Everything is well cleaned EXCEPT the sensor. I’ll take of that next!

 

[JoeInMaryland]

Take the sensor out,spray it with compressed air,or,automotive MAF spray,or,just brush it off with a soft brush.Air sensors rarely fail on old austroflamms

I pulled the air sensor, and sprayed it with MAF cleaner. It’s been running for about two hours now, but the Fire seems a little “lazy”. About every hour, the combustion blower kicks in to high gear for a few minutes. Is this normal? I’ve had P stoves since the 90’s, and the fires on those stoves would look more like a blowtorch versus a very lazy fire. I’ve heard about jumping the combustion blower motor to obtain a more constant higher speed. Any thoughts?

 

[Mt Bob]

Make sure the stove and flue are absolutely clean.There are 4 small holes,at the bottom of the heat exchanger tubes,often have to be poked open with a wire.They feed into a channel,below,that feeds the combustion blower,And there is a cleanout cover on the other side of this channel.A "down and dirty" quick way to clean this is,remoe the cast liner plates,vacuum out stove,take a flashlight and wire,find theses holes,scrape,then,using high pressure air and a small(bendable helps) air blow nozzle,blow down into these holes.You start stove first,not lit,then turn off,combustion motor will stay running for a while,enough time to suck out the ash you are blowing.In my experience,the last programming chip made burns the cleanest,slight loss of heat,but stove stays cleaner,longer.Without looking,I think it is model 3.1 revision B.Yes,once and hour,stove goes into cleaning cycle.Combustion blower goes to max,and auger timing slows way down.This really helps keep the burn pot cleaner.Now,if all that is right/clean,there are 2 potentiometers on the user control board.The upper one adjusts the speed of the combustion blower,except when it is on high burn,and the lower one adjusts the auger "on" time.There is an access hole for the lower,the upper is on the back side of the board.Years ago,I bought different pots,replaced both,ran shafts out the front of the board,so both are easily and quickly adjustable.There ya go,there is a ton of information for you.

 

[JoeInMaryland]

Make sure the stove and flue are absolutely clean.There are 4 small holes,at the bottom of the heat exchanger tubes,often have to be poked open with a wire.They feed into a channel,below,that feeds the combustion blower,And there is a cleanout cover on the other side of this channel.A "down and dirty" quick way to clean this is,remoe the cast liner plates,vacuum out stove,take a flashlight and wire,find theses holes,scrape,then,using high pressure air and a small(bendable helps) air blow nozzle,blow down into these holes.You start stove first,not lit,then turn off,combustion motor will stay running for a while,enough time to suck out the ash you are blowing.In my experience,the last programming chip made burns the cleanest,slight loss of heat,but stove stays cleaner,longer.Without looking,I think it is model 3.1 revision B.Yes,once and hour,stove goes into cleaning cycle.Combustion blower goes to max,and auger timing slows way down.This really helps keep the burn pot cleaner.Now,if all that is right/clean,there are 2 potentiometers on the user control board.The upper one adjusts the speed of the combustion blower,except when it is on high burn,and the lower one adjusts the auger "on" time.There is an access hole for the lower,the upper is on the back side of the board.Years ago,I bought different pots,replaced both,ran shafts out the front of the board,so both are easily and quickly adjustable.There ya go,there is a ton of information for you.

Thanks Bob! I believe I have dona all of this like you explained. I did notice in clean mode, the blower kicks in high, but the pellet feed is increased to a crazy level. It almost fills the burn pot. It sound like that may be the problem.

 

[Mt Bob]

If your control board is original(one switch,one knob),there should be a small hole between the switch and the auger lamp.Try adjusting the pot behind it,you will need a jewelers screwdriver.This is the auger "on" time.I think clockwise slows down the auger.I would turn it all the way and see how it does.If you have never worked with potentiometers,be very gentle.If you do it while running,you can see the difference in the flashing of the auger lamp,but,is best to use a plastic screwdriver,as stove is powered,but,I have done it with a metal one,very carefully.

 

[JoeInMaryland]

If your control board is original(one switch,one knob),there should be a small hole between the switch and the auger lamp.Try adjusting the pot behind it,you will need a jewelers screwdriver.This is the auger "on" time.I think clockwise slows down the auger.I would turn it all the way and see how it does.If you have never worked with potentiometers,be very gentle.If you do it while running,you can see the difference in the flashing of the auger lamp,but,is best to use a plastic screwdriver,as stove is powered,but,I have done it with a metal one,very carefully.

Thanks for the info, sir. I will give that a try. Thanks again!

 

[JoeInMaryland]

Make sure the stove and flue are absolutely clean.There are 4 small holes,at the bottom of the heat exchanger tubes,often have to be poked open with a wire.They feed into a channel,below,that feeds the combustion blower,And there is a cleanout cover on the other side of this channel.A "down and dirty" quick way to clean this is,remoe the cast liner plates,vacuum out stove,take a flashlight and wire,find theses holes,scrape,then,using high pressure air and a small(bendable helps) air blow nozzle,blow down into these holes.You start stove first,not lit,then turn off,combustion motor will stay running for a while,enough time to suck out the ash you are blowing.In my experience,the last programming chip made burns the cleanest,slight loss of heat,but stove stays cleaner,longer.Without looking,I think it is model 3.1 revision B.Yes,once and hour,stove goes into cleaning cycle.Combustion blower goes to max,and auger timing slows way down.This really helps keep the burn pot cleaner.Now,if all that is right/clean,there are 2 potentiometers on the user control board.The upper one adjusts the speed of the combustion blower,except when it is on high burn,and the lower one adjusts the auger "on" time.There is an access hole for the lower,the upper is on the back side of the board.Years ago,I bought different pots,replaced both,ran shafts out the front of the board,so both are easily and quickly adjustable.There ya go,there is a ton of information for you.

Well, Bob, you sir have just solved my issue. I used a 5/64 flat head screwdriver, and adjusted the combustion blower. It now looks like it should. I was about to give up after dozens of hours between cleaning, and researching this. I was literally going to drop about $4K to replace this with a wood stove! I’m forever indebted!

 

[JoeInMaryland]

If your control board is original(one switch,one knob),there should be a small hole between the switch and the auger lamp.Try adjusting the pot behind it,you will need a jewelers screwdriver.This is the auger "on" time.I think clockwise slows down the auger.I would turn it all the way and see how it does.If you have never worked with potentiometers,be very gentle.If you do it while running,you can see the difference in the flashing of the auger lamp,but,is best to use a plastic screwdriver,as stove is powered,but,I have done it with a metal one,very carefully.

Wanted to give an update. The flame was very good until today. It became lazy, so I did a cleaning. Started it back up, and now the flame can vary from fast to sluggish. Does this sound like I may need a control board since it is the first gen? I try to adjust it again with the small screwdriver, but it won’t revert back to the intense flame it has been. Any thoughts?

 

[Mt Bob]

Starting to sound flakey.Call Joe,he repairs these,and knows all the symptoms,very good person to deal with. http://www.pelletstoverepair.com/

 

[JoeInMaryland]

Starting to sound flakey.Call Joe,he repairs these,and knows all the symptoms,very good person to deal with. http://www.pelletstoverepair.com/

Great guy. Just spoke with him. Thanks again, Bob.

 

[Mt Bob]

Yes,he is great to deal with,and very intelligent on these problems.My secondary stove(integra),runs one of his rebuilt boards,I repaired my board,but his rebuilt with the latest PROM runs much better.