So I bought a 3/4" B&G circuit setter a while back intending to use it for something else, but now that I'm closing in on the install of my Solo40 I'm trying to find a way to work the valve into the build.
I think it was Bob R that I read recently that stated ball valves make terrible balance valves, and that got me thinking. The Tarm install diags show using a 1.25" ball valve closed 50% between the boiler supply and the Termovar to presumably keep the thermostat from allowing too much flow when not needed. Ball valves are certainly cheaper than the balance valve, but since I already have it I'm hoping to make use of it.
Question: Seems to me that the 3/4" balance valve wide open should provide basically the same flow as a half-cracked 1.25" ball valve, right?
Also, are there any circumstances where I might need the full port 1.25" valve that I'm not considering?
Not sure it matters but the circ is an 007, all other near boiler piping is iron 1.25", and the integrated shutoff ports on the Termovar don't really seem any bigger than the port in the balance valve looking at them side by side.
I think it was Bob R that I read recently that stated ball valves make terrible balance valves, and that got me thinking. The Tarm install diags show using a 1.25" ball valve closed 50% between the boiler supply and the Termovar to presumably keep the thermostat from allowing too much flow when not needed. Ball valves are certainly cheaper than the balance valve, but since I already have it I'm hoping to make use of it.
Question: Seems to me that the 3/4" balance valve wide open should provide basically the same flow as a half-cracked 1.25" ball valve, right?
Also, are there any circumstances where I might need the full port 1.25" valve that I'm not considering?
Not sure it matters but the circ is an 007, all other near boiler piping is iron 1.25", and the integrated shutoff ports on the Termovar don't really seem any bigger than the port in the balance valve looking at them side by side.
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