Back up and running OLD Pioneer Stove using a 8" liner

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Harner

New Member
Nov 9, 2014
19
South Carolina
I am happy to report we finally got our stove back up and running. I came here before asking about this stove and the challenge of making a change to this stove to attach it to a liner.

If you remember the opening in this stove was 3 1/2 " x 13. I wish I had remembered to take pictures.

My husband and friend made a box to attach to the stove. Sheet metal on top, welded the sides and bottom plate to enclose the opening. He then cut a circle out of the top for the liner to attach. Then we bolted this box onto the stove.

Ok it was a major challenge and alot of sweet and bruises. The problem we had was teh stove was to tall to attach the box before install. So we had to connect the liner to the box insert the stove most of the way, then lift the box and find the pre-drilled holes to bolt the box onto the stove. Well that was the BIGGEST struggle.

We did add under and around the box sealant. After all the pain and suffering, we now have our stove in and have used it supervised for the past couple of days.

I am happy to report, my hubby's box is working perfectly, the stove is running us out of the house. So far, everything is working with the new liner and no escape heat or anything. We even seem to be having less problems when opening to add wood, almost no smoke come back into the house.

So a really quick question: We have been using a grate inside this stove, is it needed? I know I see the new stoves dont use a grate, we just thought it was needed.

In case you are not familiar with the stove. The ash draw is what we use to add air flow from in the house. The blower comes on at a temp. The draw opened will make the fire hotter, mostly closed just keeps it burning.

thanks for reading this long winded story! Even more Thank you for all the help on this site!
 
These adapter boxes are usually made of heavy steel. Inspect the adapter box regularly. Sheet metal oxides quickly under the high heat of flue exhaust. Watch for signs of rusting and replace when you see this. That is unless they used stainless steel which should stand up much longer.
 
These adapter boxes are usually made of heavy steel. Inspect the adapter box regularly. Sheet metal oxides quickly under the high heat of flue exhaust. Watch for signs of rusting and replace when you see this. That is unless they used stainless steel which should stand up much longer.

Robert used 10 gauge steel to make the box, think this still has the same concerns?
 
Good job. That is sheet steel, much stouter than sheet metal. It should last a while. Was it welded together?
 
Grate not needed. In fact preferred not to use it.
 
Good job. That is sheet steel, much stouter than sheet metal. It should last a while. Was it welded together?
Yes he welded it together and the bolts to attach to the stove are stainless steal. This was the most difficult part attaching the box to the stove.

Either way we will keep close eye on the wear of the unit. Still not using it when we are not home yet. It seems to be running better now, but I am a chicken and worry about the box. I have no doubt he did a great job, but it still scares me a little.

Thanks for the heads up and what to watch out for, anything else you think we need to watch?
 
Keep in mind we only have a steel bottom, should we put fire brick on top of it. The steel bottom has holes to the ash tray and that is how we get air flow with the ash drawer open or closed. No other damper per say

I imagine if you continue to leave the ash door open to get the fire going eventually the heat will warp the bottom grate. Leave the door cracked rather than the ash door.
 
I haven't seen this stove. Can you post a couple pictures with the doors (including ash pan) open and then with them shut?
 
I haven't seen this stove. Can you post a couple pictures with the doors (including ash pan) open and then with them shut?
Here are 3 pictures.
1 stove with draw closed
2 with draw open alot
3 draw open about how much we keep it open.

The draw is about is about 14" long and 8" wide we are currently burning, so cant pull the draw completely out.
 
oops forgot the attachment
 

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So there are no other air inlets? That is really weird never seen it and it really is not right at all
 
So there are no other air inlets? That is really weird never seen it and it really is not right at all
No other the vents (grates) you see in the front on each side of the ash draw only push the heat out, they are not connected to the upper firebox.it runs under the floor off the firebox, but no way to get air to the fire.

There is a blower with a temp control, and it comes on as needed based on the setting we use.
No doubt it will run you out of the house .
 
Seems strange that there is no way to control the air on that stove. I can't imagine that the ash pan isn't the only place it gets air.
 
I'm curious what kind of temperatures this thing get up to. This is a poorly designed insert as well as a bit unsafe. I think it's time for an upgrade..
 
I'm curious what kind of temperatures this thing get up to. This is a poorly designed insert as well as a bit unsafe. I think it's time for an upgrade..
when we find the IR will check the temps. This stove is double walled all around, except over the ash pan. not sure how accurate the reading will be. We will only be able to measure the top or front. I guess we could open the door to get firebox temps.

suggestions on where to measure?
 
That is as basic as it gets.
 
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