i posted the other day about installing a baro damper to my harman sf-160 (not a gasser). i have some actual readings now and have some questions.
the issue: i feel as though i am burning too much wood too fast and not heating the water to it's potential.
equipment: harman sf-160 add-on boiler, 48" tall 6" smokepipe riser to 30' 7" all-fuel flue to open topper.
what i've done to extend burn times: added steel plates on top of firebox grates to reduce air intake and maintain embers/coals. have lower air intake door just under halfway open.
what i know about baro dampers: they exist. they are meant to equalize/reduce draft between the flue and the unit.--have no idea how to fine tune it or what the desired effects would be for my application (numbers wise)
draft readings: over the fire: .07 (probe put in draf knob opening on loading door) @ the flue collar on back of unit: .08
my questions: 1.) is the baro damper the answer to my problem? (burning too much too fast)
2.) what kind of draft numbers should i be seeing?
3.) how far above the collar on the riser should it be installed?
4.) when starting the fire and getting the unit going (sometimes twice a day) do i need to prop the damper shut until establishing draft to keep smoke from pouring into the house?
5.) as the fire dies out and draft diminishes, will smoke leak out of the damper door into the house?
6.) by slowing the draft am i creating more of a potential for creosote buildup?
the wood boiler has been effective in heating the house and reducing my oil bills---just need some fine-tuning on my wood intake.
any info would be greatly appreciated as harman continues to be a mediocre source of tech advice at best and there's not a lot of guys around here operating these things to gather info from.
thanks!
the issue: i feel as though i am burning too much wood too fast and not heating the water to it's potential.
equipment: harman sf-160 add-on boiler, 48" tall 6" smokepipe riser to 30' 7" all-fuel flue to open topper.
what i've done to extend burn times: added steel plates on top of firebox grates to reduce air intake and maintain embers/coals. have lower air intake door just under halfway open.
what i know about baro dampers: they exist. they are meant to equalize/reduce draft between the flue and the unit.--have no idea how to fine tune it or what the desired effects would be for my application (numbers wise)
draft readings: over the fire: .07 (probe put in draf knob opening on loading door) @ the flue collar on back of unit: .08
my questions: 1.) is the baro damper the answer to my problem? (burning too much too fast)
2.) what kind of draft numbers should i be seeing?
3.) how far above the collar on the riser should it be installed?
4.) when starting the fire and getting the unit going (sometimes twice a day) do i need to prop the damper shut until establishing draft to keep smoke from pouring into the house?
5.) as the fire dies out and draft diminishes, will smoke leak out of the damper door into the house?
6.) by slowing the draft am i creating more of a potential for creosote buildup?
the wood boiler has been effective in heating the house and reducing my oil bills---just need some fine-tuning on my wood intake.
any info would be greatly appreciated as harman continues to be a mediocre source of tech advice at best and there's not a lot of guys around here operating these things to gather info from.
thanks!