Barrel Stove in Shop Setup?

[DoubleClutch]

This is a question for the experts. I want to put a Vogelzang double-barrel woodburning stove (http://www.vogelzang.com/images/BK50ELG.gif) in the workshop of my wood-frame barn.

For the flue, what I plan to do (I guess) is put an elbow above the stove, then go out through the wall horizontally through some kind of thimble, then put either a cleanout "T" or elbow so I can go up vertically, and use galvanized pipe with some kind of "holdoff" brackets to both hold the galvanized pipe in place and hold it away from the barn.

Questions:

1. Does this sound like a safe way of doing it?
2. Can someone refer me to any websites that either a) explain the proper way to install this kind of thing, and/or b) sell the proper thimble and exterior "holdoff" brackets?

Thanks in advance for any info!

 

[babalu87]

Unless you use manufactured class A pipe (Selkirk and I forget the other brands) or a masonry chimney you wont be code.
Single wall pipe needs to be 36" from combustibles, thats a hell of a stand off......

Is the building attached at all to your house?

 

[tkirk22]

Save the trouble. Buy a used stove or get a new one at a year end closeout. It'll be safer and better all around.

 

[begreen]

There was a posting a year or so ago about some barrel stove installs. Perhaps BB can help locate it. The person had built a nice cement block surround for it that added considerable thermal mass. He said it worked quite well.

 

[DoubleClutch]

Thanks for the fast replies.

Babalu - No, the barn is not attached to the dwelling. If I were able to rig up some kind of 36" standoffs, does anyone know whether I'd be up to code with single-wall galvanized pipe?

Also, how much might double-wall pipe cost for this sort of installation? The stack would need to go up maybe 25' or 30' ... it seems like there has to be a cheaper way than building a masonry stack...

Thanks again.

 

[mikeathens]

No galvanized for wood burner. It will burn off the galvinization and rust out in no time. These barrel stoves are great to use for maple syrup evaporators...

 

[BrotherBart]

I have burned in both single and double barrel stoves and there is no way on the planet that you can safely do that with a 25 or 30' pipe. That stove would go from cold to out of control in less than ten minutes after you lit the match. You would be combining a stove with literally no air control with a chimney with a monster draft. A recipe for a barn burner.

Also, you cannot use galvanized pipe as stove pipe or chimney pipe. Your best bet is a low end real wood stove with black stove pipe straight up and Class A pipe through and above the roof.

 

[mikeathens]

Also, if you want a new barn, this would be a good way to get a new start from the gound up, if you know what I mean!! I'm sure the correct insulated prefab chimney and correct support/wall pass-throughs are cheaper than a new barn and all of your belongings inside of it...

 

[Henz]

dad had one in his workshop..we now have a new workshop.................

 

[Eric Johnson]

What's the purpose of the top barrel? Creosote accumulation chamber? Love the air controls designed to look like barrel plugs. Pretty clever and stylishly subtle!

 

[mikeathens]

What's the purpose of the top barrel? Creosote accumulation chamber? Love the air controls designed to look like barrel plugs. Pretty clever and stylishly subtle!

THose are actually bungs You cut out an old barrel (imagine all of the nice old chemical barrels converted to this) and install the iron door and flanges/legs. The top barrel is an optional "heat chamber" that's supposed to increase your heat output. I got one at an auction for $5 (only the bottom barrel) and cut the top out to fit with stainless chafing pans - fill pans with maple sap, build a fire, and cram pallet wood that I got from behind tractor supply in all day while I down a case of fine beer. It's outside, so no chance of buring anyhting down. I actually TRY to get the thing glowing red. I have had a 30' column of flame coming out the 10' chimney. It lets you do everyhting you're not supposed to do with your wood stove. i woudl definitley be aprehensive about putting one someplace you don't want to burn down...

 

[Hogwildz]

Even if you get the proper chimney pipe, the barrel will not pass code.

 

[Metal]

Not EPA Approved and not worth your time to install.

 

[Burn-1]

There was a posting a year or so ago about some barrel stove installs. Perhaps BB can help locate it. The person had built a nice cement block surround for it that added considerable thermal mass. He said it worked quite well.

BG I think you might be referring to the link in this post that I put up last year

 

[begreen]

Yep, that's the one. Thanks for the link. I wasn't advocating for the VG approach, but admire when people come up with practical heating solutions.

 

[kgrant]

We used one of those kits in our shed when I was a kid. Worked just fine. Ran it untill the barrels rusted/burned out, then replaced it with an oil drip stove.

 

[Metal]

My uncle had two in his 60'x120' quonset. Heated okay, but when it burned down he put nat. gas. heaters in the new one (insurance company made sure of it). Fire was so hot it melted the metal support beams.

 

[chad3]

I'm a bit surprised (not saying much). My father used one of these in our house 15 years ago and it worked great. He would clean everything each year, but we never had any issues. His was a SOTZ (sp) style and still has the parts. We even made a 3' hook to drop LONG logs in it. Forget 22" ours were almost as long as we could carry. They worked and with the pipe damper they weren't out of control.
Even though.....love my EPA stove and he has a Quad.
Chad

 

[mikeathens]

Here's the best thing to do with a barrel stove:

Great for making maple syrup!

 

[swestall]

If I were in this situation, I would get myself a great stainless chimney. Then if I had to have a stove hooked up to it and couldn't afford a new or used EPA stove, I might look for a nice old very large pot belly and burn it nice and hot. And, I'd make sure I had lots of clearance with good masonary protection around it so I wouldn't be getting a new BARN within a short time.