Basement woodburner install - need help

[the_dude]

My friend has asked me to help him re-install a woodburner he put in his basement last year. It is a non-EPA woodburner. I am uncertain of the brand - he purchased it at Menards (big box store). He has a clay lined masonary chimney that goes all the way the floor of the basement. It has a cleanout door at the bottom. Currently, he has an 8" stove pipe running from the stove into the chimney about 5' up from the floor. That is it.

He would like to install it properly with safetly in mind. I suggested putting in a flex liner. The inside dimensions of the chimney are 7.25" square. Total run is around 30 ft.

What do we need to do a proper installation? Can we run 8" pipe from the stove, and reduce it to a 6" or 7" flex liner? How do we reduce it? How do we install a 90 degree elbow to go up the chimney? Any help is greatly appreciated as far as materials needed and how to install.

 

[begreen]

How is the current setup working?

Knowing the stove might help, but normally the flue diameter can not be legally reduced. Can you describe the flue better? Is this an interior or exterior chimney? Tile lined? What shape is it in? Has it been cleaned and the tiles inspected recently?

As far as the 8" pipe, be sure that the current installation has plenty of clearance above it to the ceiling or floor joists.

 

[Drifthopper]

Dude…I have / had a similar situation with my set up.
I have wood furnace, 8” flue, my old chimney was like you described, square clay lined in concrete block, when I first got my furnace I (you might be able to search some of my old topics and posts from last season) reduced the 8” down to 6” which then went into the 7” i.d. clay chimney. My draft was poor, so mid –December I knocked out my crock and fitted a 8” pipe into the clay,,,,with some modification, draft was ok. Burned it like that for the rest of the season.
Then read a lot on here, and on other sites and sources…so this past spring and summer I put in a new dura vent chimney, 8” all the way out and up.

For your buddy……it may be cheaper to sell his 8” stove and buy a stove with a 6” flue so that would match his existing chimney.
Good Luck.

 

[the_dude]

It is an interior chimney. It is clay lined. I have not personally inspected it, but he tells me it is not in good shape, which I why he wants to line it.

 

[oconnor]

Line it and insulate it, especially if it isn't in good shape. Was it built to solid fuel code, or is it an oil flue that now has a wood burner on it? The oil code doesn't require the same air space clearances around the outside of the flue as solid fuel code.

Give the Best Practices link in my signature block a read (get your friend to read it too). When you aren't sure of the condition of the flue, lining it is what they recommend.

 

[begreen]

Did he say what the chimney sweep found wrong? I'm guessing with the chimney in poor condition he has little choice but to either run a new, all metal chimney or reline with 6".

IMHO, he should also consider changing to a stove with a 6" collar. Sounds like it's overdue. If he did, he might be able to do it with 5.5" given the tall stack.

 

[the_dude]

UPDATE: I spoke with my friend this morning, and his stove does have a 6" collar. When we were discussing it, he was thinking it was 8". The blower pipes are 8" but the collar is only 6". With that in mind, what are his options for lining the chimney? Do you have to line with flex liner, or can you use rigid stove pipe?

Thanks!

 

[begreen]

This sound more like a wood furnace, not a stove. What is the make and model?

As far as the liner, it would be good for the pro's to jump in here. From what I know, (which is not a whole lot about relining) I would probably put in a rigid, double-wall liner like Simpson's DuraLiner unless there were serious obstacles.

 

[joemeintzer]

I am the friend in question. I have owned this home for two years and I am forced to make many assumptions and draw my own conclusions about its soundness or lack there of. Built in the twenties, I guess it fired coal or wood prior to venting the natural draft water heater when I bought it, which has been replaced and vents elsewhere. Although not knowing when clay liners came into being it could have been done later. Anyhow last season (the maiden voyage) the setup worked well, excellent draft, no smoke build ups etc. My concern was the probable extended time the water heater ran in an oversize flue. Fears I think were validated earlier this fall by the amount of clay chips I removed 1.5 five gallon buckets worth. I have tried to a professional give me their opinion but none of the dozen or so care to come out and look (business must be very good) so I have to do it myself, with your collaborative help of course. I have already learned alot from your posts just by product awareness, thank you! and Happy Thanksgiving!

 

[begreen]

welcome skull. We cross posted. Good to have you aboard. What is the stove/furnace make and model?

 

[joemeintzer]

It is in fact a add on wood furnace a Daka with two eight inch heat discharges and a six inch collar exhausting the unit to the flue. I don't beleive I need a double wall liner as this woould reduce the size of the inner liner. My clay liner is 7.25 x 7.25 and I would like make this as easy and inexpensive as posssible to resume wood heating.

 

[begreen]

If the chimney tiles are failing and it has zero clearance from wood, I believe that an insulated liner is in order. The objective of keeping costs down is fine, but not at the expense of safety. The inner liner would be 6" round, OD is 6 5/8". Download the catalog for specs.

http://www.duravent.com/?page=4a.php

 

[joemeintzer]

What comprises zero clearance? Is it that wood/combustibles would have been used in the masonry surrounding the clay tile? Also is there a site giving values of minimum clearances for flues,chimneys,etc?