bathtub insallation level question.

[Jay H]

Another busy weekend in the bathroom! gutted the old jacuzzi tub which was framed in the front and also sitting on a big molded styrafoam base... I bought a regular bathtub and shower door and going to tile the walls and some waterproof cement.

My question is what to do with an uneven floor? If I was to use mortar cement, I would have to put some kind of molding in the front to 1) hold the cement and 2) hide the gap in the front facade of the tub, right? What are my options. I haven't checked the tub front yet but casually checked the subfloor where the tub is going, it's a bit uneven side to side sloping towards the room a little. It didn't matter with the whirlpool tub since that was framed, I'm sure they could of levelled it out with the framing and base.

Jay

 

[Jay H]

Ha, OK, so there is going to be molding in the front of the tub, that will easily hide the level thing. I was wondering what was going to happen in that area...

Can't wait to have a bathtub again, not having a shower in 95deg weather and no A/C yet and working is not a fun way to spend the weekend!

Jay

 

[johnn]

Come - On - Jay... NOT Fair, if you dont give us a chance to answer your question. What kinda "forum" would this be if everyone answered their own question? Then we`d all be trying to guess the "question",,,come - -on - -Jay...play fair.

 

[Jay H]

Well, the bathtub is in! I didn't mortar it because it felt fine when it was levelled with a small shim and so I set it in, attached the drain and did some PVC work to redo the P-trap. Works well.

I do have a question though, perhaps somebody could answer as I could find NOTHING in the manual that states what the purpose is for 2 pieces we found on the underside of the tub, The tub is a Kohler Sterling model (performa??? I forget the name) that is standard issue at Lowes, not the cheapo model but not the expensive one either. The tub came with 2 right angle triangles though not really a right angle as the angle is a little obtuse (yes, high school geometry is great!) but my friend and I had to remove it because it covered the drain, they were molded onto the base and we had to just pop it and wiggle it off. I never used it and they are sitting at home. I saw no mention of it in the install guide either.. Any ideas what they are for? packaging? Shipping? Extra junk???


Jay

 

[johnn]

If the tubs installation was to be raised in order to allow for a short horizontal run of the drain,,perhaps they were there for framing support. Sounds like they actually blocked the drain and not just impeded the use of tools,,if thats the case,,and they broke off as easily as you mentioned, then i`m clueless!

Nice to be back on line-eh. Happy bathing.

 

[Jay H]

Looking at Sterling's website, this is listed as a "feature" for A.F.D. installations, which they say is "Above Floor Drain":

Factory-installed, three-inch apron extension for above floor drain (AFD) installation which means no need to cut into the sub-floor or install costly fire protection or pest protection

Could these little attachments be part of that????

I downloaded the instruction manual and did a search for AFD and came up with 1 hit but no real help...

Jay

 

[johnn]

Quite possibly!! you dont really want any flex from weight bearing areas around the drain seal plumbing connections. Perhaps these were to brace that area.

 

[John_M]

Jay, A a quick comment about caulking around the tub: Do not use grout in the areas where the tub meets walls or floor. Use caulk to allow for movement. It is also a good idea to fill the tub half full with warm water BEFORE YOU STEP INTO THE TUB TO DO THE CAULKING. The weight of water and you in the tub will closely approximate the weight load when used for bathing. That will minimize any movement between tub and walls or floor. Some installers also spray a large mat of expanding foam under the tub so the weight is distrbuted more evenly over the floor.

Hopefully, others will offer their suggestions with more specific details.

Good luck,

John_M

 

[webby3650]

Jay, A a quick comment about caulking around the tub: Do not use grout in the areas where the tub meets walls or floor. Use caulk to allow for movement. It is also a good idea to fill the tub half full with warm water BEFORE YOU STEP INTO THE TUB TO DO THE CAULKING. The weight of water and you in the tub will closely approximate the weight load when used for bathing. That will minimize any movement between tub and walls or floor. Some installers also spray a large mat of expanding foam under the tub so the weight is distrbuted more evenly over the floor.

Hopefully, others will offer their suggestions with more specific details.

Good luck,

John_M

Very good tips! I haven't heard of the spray foam trick in this area. On the floor, we place balls of morter with plastic sheeting over them, then set the tub base down into that. This allows no noticable deflection, this is a very important step, over time deflection in the base WILL cause cracks.

 

[Jay H]

Yup, I've heard the silicone caulk for the tile/tub joint... I have also read online about the expanding foam trick somewhere. The apron in front of my tub though is not removable so the only way to get at the base now is via the rough-in (below floor).

I took my first bath last night and realized my friend and I did a "could of been major" goof. We never lined up the bathtub spigot to the centerline of the tub We pushed the tub as far back so it's flush against the back wall for the tub clips w/o thinking about the spigot/plumbing so today when I went to take a bath, I realized.. d'oh So I undid the clips and prayed to high heavan that the PVC p-trap drainage that was already cemented and stuff would have enough play to move about 1.5" away from the back wall. Yes it did and I breathed again. So I took a bath and now I am thinking of building a shelf on the back wall, I'll build it up to about a level where tiling will be easy and it would be used to keep shampoo and anything on for use as a shower (I'll install a regular soap dish below in the wall for baths). I am also probably going to tile the bottom wall with 6x6" tile but use 1 row of 4x4" tile just below the shelf because I've found a lot more decorative 4x4 tile than 6x6" tile and I'd like to break up the colors anyway. So I'll have to measure the tiles and grout (1/8" gaps) and build the wall up to that level soon.

Today, I am going to finish sanding the corners and start priming the non-bathtub walls... then tomorrow i paint and then the weekend, I hope to start sheetrocking the bathroom with the Densarmor stuff and apply the waterproofing cement. Then perhaps I'll have time to put water treatment on my log splitter carport..

Jay

 

[John_M]

Jeez, Jay, You can be reasonably assured the end of the world will not occur next Friday. Be certain to set side a few minutes for eating and sleeping.

Best wishes and slow down a teensy bit; not too much - just a teensy bit.

John_M

 

[Jay H]

Well, if it does, I want to be able to take a shower so I am nice and smelling rosy fresh at the Pearly Gates (assuming I've been a good boy)....

Thanks John, I am taking a break actually as next week I will be in NH on business and will be spending the following weekend in the White Mtns since it's closeby. So I don't expect to do any tiling at all before I go away and hopefully will resume it after my return. I expect to finish this project by the end of may... which would make this literally a 1.5 month project!!

I can eat while taking a bath.... hahahahaha!

Jay