The past forum post discussed the benefits of adding insulation to your attic ceiling area. All agree that is a great place to start, but not discussed are two other areas of your home that should be considered.
Exposed Heating pipes and hot water pipes in your cellar. Usually easy to get at and cost effective. These exposed pipes loose a lot of heat before they make it to the living space. One can have a very efficient boiler but what good is it if the delivery system is poor. The longer the run the more heat loss. The same goes with exposed galvanized Hot air ducts. Even if one can only wrap 3 sides you will be saving heat loss. The one side you may not be able to get at is the top against the Joist. One might be able to lay insulation pieces on the top in between areas.
Discussed was the benefits of insulating your Hot water tank. What about the pipes?. Want to cut down water waste, waiting for hot water to make it to the faucet? Pipe wrap insulation comes in different thickness and r- values Usually the greater the thickness the greater the r-value and cost.
The armorflex rubber 3/8” is much better product than the Styrofoam cheaper type. Actually the only use of Styrofoam is on the domestic hot water where temps do not exceed 160 degrees. When your FHW system is on peak demand temps in the pipes exceed 180 degrees and could push 200+. The Styrofoam has a melting point of 180. The rubber Armorflex is 210. In this case thicker Styrofoam melts and looses insulating properties, actually stick and bonds to the pipes as it melts.
End result not money well spent even if rated R5.0. 3/8” Armorflex has an r-value of about 3.0 even thought it may not be stamped on the product. R 5.0 ¾ to 1” that will withstand the heat, tends to be a lot more expensive that one will be willing to pay. Not found in Hardware stores or Home Depot but in Plumbing supply retailers. Summary Armorflex 3/8” Is a cost effective choice.
Second area in your basement to check is your floor, R19 will greatly improve heat loss of you floor. Third is inspect the contact point around your foundation perimeter. where the wood sill meets the foundation. (Notorious for draft leaks) One could stuff loose insulation or buy a couple cans of expanding Styrofoam and run a bead all the way around.
I guess as long as you are not painting no permits required
Exposed Heating pipes and hot water pipes in your cellar. Usually easy to get at and cost effective. These exposed pipes loose a lot of heat before they make it to the living space. One can have a very efficient boiler but what good is it if the delivery system is poor. The longer the run the more heat loss. The same goes with exposed galvanized Hot air ducts. Even if one can only wrap 3 sides you will be saving heat loss. The one side you may not be able to get at is the top against the Joist. One might be able to lay insulation pieces on the top in between areas.
Discussed was the benefits of insulating your Hot water tank. What about the pipes?. Want to cut down water waste, waiting for hot water to make it to the faucet? Pipe wrap insulation comes in different thickness and r- values Usually the greater the thickness the greater the r-value and cost.
The armorflex rubber 3/8” is much better product than the Styrofoam cheaper type. Actually the only use of Styrofoam is on the domestic hot water where temps do not exceed 160 degrees. When your FHW system is on peak demand temps in the pipes exceed 180 degrees and could push 200+. The Styrofoam has a melting point of 180. The rubber Armorflex is 210. In this case thicker Styrofoam melts and looses insulating properties, actually stick and bonds to the pipes as it melts.
End result not money well spent even if rated R5.0. 3/8” Armorflex has an r-value of about 3.0 even thought it may not be stamped on the product. R 5.0 ¾ to 1” that will withstand the heat, tends to be a lot more expensive that one will be willing to pay. Not found in Hardware stores or Home Depot but in Plumbing supply retailers. Summary Armorflex 3/8” Is a cost effective choice.
Second area in your basement to check is your floor, R19 will greatly improve heat loss of you floor. Third is inspect the contact point around your foundation perimeter. where the wood sill meets the foundation. (Notorious for draft leaks) One could stuff loose insulation or buy a couple cans of expanding Styrofoam and run a bead all the way around.
I guess as long as you are not painting no permits required
