Best compromise between 40 and 50.

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

Some of my small engines call for 40 to 1, some for 50 to 1. On paper, I'm one to just follow the called-for specs, and then no worries. In real life practice, I have never marked my two 1 gallon cans, nor my tools, and in the heat of trying to get as much done, sometimes get mixed up. So, I think I just mixed both cans to 40 to 1, and everything seems to be working fine. Do I really need to be worrying about this? I'd rather go 50 to 1, but figured a little more lubrication wouldn't hurt, too little might.

 

[DodgyNomad]

I mix everything with high quality (klotz) synthetic at 44:1

 

[Lloyd the redneck]

I run pretty heavy around 30-40 to 1 range. Mostly in the 30. I also add a ounce or 2 of marvel mystery oil in to a gallon. And use 91 no ethanol. I use schaffers synthetic 2 stroke racing oil , what I use in my dirt bikes and things

 

[sportbikerider78]

40:1 is 128oz to 3.2oz

50:1 is 128oz to 2.6oz

The difference between the two mixes is .6oz oil per 128oz gas. That's .6/128 = .00468 per oz between the mixes.

I looked it up, just out of curiosity. It is 2.768 drops/oz.

I'd say you are all set to run whatever you'd like to run. I'm sure that all things are not linear with combustion, but engines are pretty tough these days too. Material sciences are amazing

I'm the same as you, i have echo equipment that wants 50:1 and a few other that are 40:1. From now on, I'll stock just 50:1 and add a few drops of oil when I need to use 40:1 equipment.

You're always better off running a little rich than a little lean. Lean conditions run hotter and provide less crankcase lube.

 

[WoodyIsGoody]

40:1 is 128oz to 3.2oz

50:1 is 128oz to 2.6oz

The difference between the two mixes is .6oz oil per 128oz gas. That's .6/128 = .00468 per oz between the mixes.

I looked it up, just out of curiosity. It is 2.768 drops/oz.

I'd say you are all set to run whatever you'd like to run. I'm sure that all things are not linear with combustion, but engines are pretty tough these days too. Material sciences are amazing

I'm the same as you, i have echo equipment that wants 50:1 and a few other that are 40:1. From now on, I'll stock just 50:1 and add a few drops of oil when I need to use 40:1 equipment.

You're always better off running a little rich than a little lean. Lean conditions run hotter and provide less crankcase lube.

This is good advice. But I think when you say "rich" you mean air/fuel mixture, not fuel/oil mixture, right?

If the equipment calling for 40:1 was older equipment, you could add a few drops of oil/oz. to bring it up to 40:1 but I would probably just run it at 50:1 and be content knowing that the top quality oil I use (Stihl Ultra) lubricates better than the oils of the past at 40:1.

I make the distinction between running rich (more fuel) and running rich (more oil) because running a more rich oil mixture actually makes the saw run more lean (air/fuel). The oil displaces fuel. And interferes with atomization. Both make for an effectively leaner air fuel mix which requires a carb adjustment. Assuming a quality synthetic oil, I would run them both at 50:1.

 

[WoodyIsGoody]

I run pretty heavy around 30-40 to 1 range. Mostly in the 30. I also add a ounce or 2 of marvel mystery oil in to a gallon. And use 91 no ethanol. I use schaffers synthetic 2 stroke racing oil , what I use in my dirt bikes and things

That's one strategy that is obviously working. But it's far from ideal. Saws and motorcycles have different lubrication requirements. With all that oil in the gas there is probably not a lack of lubrication but you're diluting the fuel unnecessarily and creating undesirable carbon buildup over time. You will have superior power and longevity following the manufacturers recommendations.

 

[sportbikerider78]

When I was speaking of rich, i was talking about the oil to gas ratio.

So what you are saying is that with more oil in the mixture, there is less gas so the piston gets less cooling?

 

[WoodyIsGoody]

When I was speaking of rich, i was talking about the oil to gas ratio.

So what you are saying is that with more oil in the mixture, there is less gas so the piston gets less cooling?

Oil cools too, but probably not as much as gas. What I'm saying is a rich oil to gas ratio (extra oil) will cause a leaner fuel/air ratio due to increased viscosity as well as diluted fuel. That's not such a problem assuming your carburetor has enough adjustment range on the mixture screws (but many modern saws have very little).

 

[sportbikerider78]

Gotcha. Good points...I learned something.

 

[DodgyNomad]

With the quality of modern synthetics and premium grade ethanol free fuel, you could likely burn anything between 30:1 and 60:1 and hardly see any appreciable difference in wear frankly. I use Benol at 44:1 and have been very happy when tearing engines down and rebuilding them. And I love the smell......

 

[WoodyIsGoody]

With the quality of modern synthetics and premium grade ethanol free fuel, you could likely burn anything between 30:1 and 60:1 and hardly see any appreciable difference in wear frankly. I use Benol at 44:1 and have been very happy when tearing engines down and rebuilding them. And I love the smell......

I would be hesitant to use Benol. It's not even similar in composition to the stuff Stihl, Husqvarna and other chainsaw manufacturers recommend. Two-stroke engines are tough and can probably put up with a wide variety of lubricants but, why chance it?

Check this thread out:

http://firewoodhoardersclub.com/forums/threads/the-official-do-not-use-oil-thread.18674/

Now, for all I know, there was another problem and the guy might be full of it. On the other hand, maybe it's not the best oil to be running? I really don't know. What I do know is that Stihl Ultra has been designed for saws and used successfully for millions, if not billions, of hours of cutting. If there was a problem it would have been identified and rectified.

Why take a chance?

 

[DodgyNomad]

I understand your concerns on the Benol, a lot of people don't think it's the right oil for them. I've been using it for years in some very high performance applications, including my 207 hp race quad, as well as some hot saws, etc..

I like it, but I understand your reluctance. When we freshen up the 2 strokes, Benol has held up well, but so has Amsoil, Stihl Ultra, etc..

 

[WoodyIsGoody]

I understand your concerns on the Benol, a lot of people don't think it's the right oil for them.

The oil isn't for the saw operator, it's for the saw. The saw would have difficulty telling what oil is "right" for the operator.

 

[Lloyd the redneck]

That's one strategy that is obviously working. But it's far from ideal. Saws and motorcycles have different lubrication requirements. With all that oil in the gas there is probably not a lack of lubrication but you're diluting the fuel unnecessarily and creating undesirable carbon buildup over time. You will have superior power and longevity following the manufacturers recommendations.

I thought that, until I expirmented. I have tried every type of oil avaliable in my area and tried many different mixes. I also don't have anything modern. All my stuff is old. "Collector" some may say. Generally speaking I don't foul plugs (except in my 400 2 stroke Yamaha). But that's a pretty hot bike. My saws were built in west Germany and back then more was better. So more it is ! Haha. Anyways back on topic. Don't spose it matters at all as long as there's lube somewhat close to specs