Big new shed - saga continues

[edthedawg]

For those of you playing along at home, the prior threads from this summer:

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/40399/ - trying to find good wood to buy this late, and getting "burned" in the process
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/39521/ - dealing w/ fungi
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/38791/ - building the "8-10 cord" shed in the first place

(Some of them threads took on a life of their own...)

So the Early September update:

Shed still ain't totally finished, but I got 8 cords stacked up in its space finally. It looks like I can fit 1 more cord easily, maybe 2 if I start w/ the porch-front stack now. I'm kinda excited that it'll actually hold 10 cords - should be more than 2 yrs worth. I just don't see where I can safely / realistically stack or store any more wood on the property without affecting other activities...

On that topic tho - the last 2 cords I got were absolutely fantastic! Really nice "clink" in the wood, it feels good and light, most of the bark is already off, and hardly ANY bugs in the whole lot. I'm willing to try and burn this stuff this year, despite only 9 months seasoning. I know - don't burn "this year" wood. It'll be split down small, and I will shut the whole operation down if it can't burn clean.

Either way - Do folks think I should go ahead and get another 2 cords of it now at $200/cord? Or wait til spring and get green for <$150/cord?

First pic - Can ya tell where the first batch of "seasoned" wood (read: dripping green) stops and the more recent "actually seasoned" wood begins??

Second & Third pix - 8 cords stacked - definitely room for one more back to the right (where the stacked cinderblocks are) and another if I pull out the half stack in front on the left. That "covered ell" over the RR ties is going to be 10 feet long, which should be enough for 6 stacks, but is only 4 1/2 now...

Looking fwd to feedback as always

 

[boostnut]

"Either way - Do folks think I should go ahead and get another 2 cords of it now at $200/cord? Or wait til spring and get green for <$150/cord? "

Why pay a premium for wood when you already have enough to get you thru the next couple of years? Wait till spring and get it cheaper. It will still have more than enough time to season. Feels good being over a year ahead eh?

 

[edthedawg]

Well my thinking was if I luck out and this recent stuff IS as good as it looks - far better than anything else I've ever burned, or even the 3 yr seasoned stuff my parents have packed (way too tightly, IMO) into their shed - then I'm done after 2 cords. Just enough to carry me to Xmas most likely... If I buy 2 more just like it now, and it works out, then I'm assured of a full season ready to go...

But I see the cheaper / wait argument...

 

[Tony H]

I would go for the green wood and let it season if you are that far ahead
BTW where is the wood shed you speak of ?

 

[savageactor7]

If I had to buy wood I'd buy green for the price...that way when it sits in your yard for a year or 2 you know it seasoned. Of course that's might be hard to do in a city environment with limited space.

 

[Skier76]

I think the pink the towels add a nice splash of color to the area above the stacks. :cheese:

 

[edthedawg]

BTW where is the wood shed you speak of ?

It's in Suburban Stealth Mode

(read: I haven't actually finished building it yet!) :cheese:

 

[Cluttermagnet]

I would go for the green wood and let it season if you are that far ahead
BTW where is the wood shed you speak of ?

You're looking at it (them). Minimalist, low profile, and cheap. I love it! BTW did you ever get a roof on that, Ed- or did you go with tarps?

 

[edthedawg]

The corrugated plastic material (clear 2'x8' sheets) are danged expensive @ $12+/ea., plus both HD's nearby tend to be perpetually out of stock on them - so i've been getting a few when I find them.

Since I haven't finished framing out the structure over the "RR-tie" section (which I just finished stacking this weekend), and it's still way before Freezin' Season, I haven't worried a lot about cover. I'm just leaving the few stray panels I do have resting on top of the stacks, held down w/ a few heavy splits. (see pic - a half dozen sheets or so in play)

This "shed" does sit right in the midst of 3 neighboring property lines, plus has a decent view to the road - so I am definitely aiming for Low-Profile. Don't need nobody kicking up dust about having an "outbuilding without proper setbacks" :zip:

 

[edthedawg]

I kicked around the idea of tarps. I had long planned to use the corrugated plastic sheets (shown above). but I'd need about $220 of them to do the shed. And if they break (they feel flimsy - my Materials Science degree is screaming at me here) then I'm out another $220+ to replace 'em. I could see replacing them all w/in a few years.

So I broke down and went w/ plywood and rolled roofing. About $360 for the whole thing (about 275 sq ft) delivered onsite from the lumber yard I use. I figure that's at least a 10 yr solution, and i won't hesitate to climb up on it, lean a ladder against it, etc.

Gonna add tie-down strapping from the upper 2x4 roof frame to the 4x4 posts, too, just to lock it all together. Them posts are pinned solid under tons of firewood at this point. If a hurricane manages to swing thru, scoop this whole thing up from its perch between the house, barn, and fence, and throw it thru the neighbor's window, I reckon I'll just be left holding the insurance bag on that one.

 

[Cluttermagnet]

Good deal- sounds like the plywood and straps should leave you up for nearly anything short of a direct hit by a tornado.

Ground- anchored 4x4 uprights would be better, of course. Just the sheer weight of it all should be OK, however. May be possible to later convert to ground anchored 4x4 members, a few at a time, since they are supporting only the weight of the roof. Or you could use screw- in ground anchors and tie the structure to a bunch of them- but it's hard to beat the combination of hole + concrete + PT 4x4, and that's cheaper.

 

[edthedawg]

Yeah i'm kinda kicking myself for lots of cheap-outs and design flux along the way, but hey - live and learn. It's certainly not gonna have the majority of the supports move anywhere - they are pinned beneath tons of wood weight.

I added the last two supports and the final roof framing yesterday. Man what a poor choice it was to do that AFTER the wood was stacked there. WTF was I thinking?? Clearly I wasn't - may well wind up moving some stuff around next season once that section is emptied.

And now of course, I have to question how wise it is to put potential snow weight on a nearly flat 2x4 frame, after the plywood and roofing material. Probably will wind up sistering on some 2x8's for added support...

And in the end, I gotta keep reminding myself: It's just a woodshed. Stop overthinking it.

 

[Cluttermagnet]

I think you're doing great- especially considering your 'low profile' situation. Enjoyed seeing photos. I've gotten some ideas from yours. I have yet to build my first woodshed. Doubt my first build will be my last- always more to learn. For now, I know to dry splits in piles, and to top- cover my stacks in the fall. Once seasoned, top- covered year round.

Have been lucky to come into a steady supply of structural wood from shipping crates- big ones. A whole bunch of 2x4 and various other stuff all de-nailed and neatly stacked around my place, waiting for the right time to build something. By the time I get around to it, there may be enough scrap plywood for roofing as well. Need to keep it all low budget.

 

[edthedawg]

Got my plywood and rolled roofing. Also finally cleaned up all the junk, overly long pieces, shoulder chunks, bark, etc. out from the middle area. And broke out my new moisture meter. last year's few pieces remaining: 18-20 MC. w00t! This year's stuff: Hovering in the low-mid 30's. Not what I was hoping for. But bark is off, it clinks nice, and it splits real nice.

And i kinda question this cheap moisture meter. i was cutting long pieces down w/ my chop saw, and this one looked like a chunk of maple. Cut hard, and the grain was white but SOAKED - you could see so much moisture in it. Meter still didn't go over 40%. It'd flash something in the neighborhood of 50-80% for a split second on contact - less than a blink of an eye - but then it'd settle in the high 30's.

so in the end, i'm gonna burn what burns, and not burn what don't wanna burn :lol:

 

[iskiatomic]

I think the pink the towels add a nice splash of color to the area above the stacks.

I think the pink towels are there to suck up the moisture from the wood.



KC

 

[LLigetfa]

I think the pink the towels add a nice splash of color to the area above the stacks.

I think the pink towels are there to suck up the moisture from the wood.



KC

They're not pink towels, they are ShamWow clones.

 

[edthedawg]

stupidstupidstupid. i left the moisture meter sitting outside on the gas grill. in the pouring rain.

got it apart now, but i think it's terminal. when i tried it after drying things off, it was baselining at 11%, instead of zeroing. BAH.

and i distinctly recall Friday, saying to myself "don't leave that out, it's gonna rain hard on Sunday!" And when I left the house on Friday, of course I had the "I think I'm forgetting something..." feeling, but couldn't figure out what it was...

PHOOEY.

:sick:

 

[Cluttermagnet]

Give it a few days to dry out thoroughly. It may be perfectly OK. Remember, it's a moisture meter, and you definitely got moisture in it. I'd say at least 3-4 days before you pronounce it 'dead'. Even electronics accidentally dunked in salt water can be thoroughly rinsed in fresh water and air dried with no permanent ill effects. Only possible caution is- if you suspect air pollution in rain, a fresh water rinse and several days drying time ought to return it to normal function. But probably that rain was not contaminated with anything. Give it some more time, try a second rinse (total immersion) if you think it necessary, then several more days drying. Only then should you give up on it. Only rarely is there anything on an electronics PC board that will be harmed by water. Water is not intrinsically harmful to electronic components. That residual moisture is confusing the moisture sensor. In a strange way, it's probably telling 'the truth'. It is very encouraging that you have a working display that can still tell you "11 Percent". Hang in there...

P.S. Remove the battery before rinsing, put it back in later when dry.

 

[Skier76]

I've heard of people drying out wet cell phones by placing the phone in a zip lock back along with some rice. It may work on your moitures meter as well.

 

[edthedawg]

I had to "get it off the dining room table!" last night so i reassembled it. put the battery in and it's a little wonky on the switch action (gotta press HARD to turn on or off) and the response seems a little sketchy compared to before, but it is indeed zeroing, and returning normalish results. will give it a few more days and see what happens. thanks all!

 

[Cluttermagnet]

What kind of switch? Do you know how to identify them? For that one item, normal operation may return only after you have sprayed a little silicone 'TV tuner' lubricant in it. If it's an 'open construction' type of switch (likely), you can get a can of the spray for it at your local Radio Shack. Also known as 'silicone spray contact lubricant'. Make sure to get one with the red spray wand. Stick that little tube in the spray head and you get real accurate control over where the stream goes.

Back to the original topic, I have built another 'woodshed' that resembles yours. I'd call it a 'wood crib'. Will hold about 0.8 cord when full. It's about 10ft x 4ft and about 3ft tall- so it's low profile like yours. I built it with 2x4 uprights and cross members to support a small plywood roof. Pallets form the base. I think it will handle snow loads OK.

Will post pix of it tomorrow. Have been busy the past 2 days processing wood and getting it partly loaded, mostly with Red Oak.

 

[Cluttermagnet]

Here's a couple of shots of my new wood crib/ low profile wood shed:

The main section holds deadwood Red Oak. I have plenty more of that, still needing splitting. On the left is mostly Mimosa with a little Cherry and (dare I say it?) Pine. Well, we had some dead shrubberies and I figured I had to do something with them before the neighbors started saying "Ni! Ni!" I folded up a small tarp and covered the left end with it. Wouldn't want anyone to see that I have Pine.

 

[edthedawg]

Just an update - I had bought some "seasoned" c/s/d wood in the hopes that it would burn well for me. As luck would have it - it burns AMAZINGLY well! We get a terrific coal bed 9 hours after loading, drop a couple kindling twigs on there, then pile on the splits, close the door, open the primary, and within seconds - *FWOOM!* it's in full burn. No hiss, no sizzle, just burn! lovin' it!