Bigger Dist. Blower?

[snoops]

My stove is a US Stove American Harvest 6039. I am curious if it would be a little more efficient if there was more air going through the heat exchanger. I have the blower speed set all the way up at 9. I assume that the voltage would be 120 at the blower motor at this point, meaning its maxed out? I have not checked into anything yet as far as temperatures of the air coming out or the air coming off heat exchanger itself. I know the dist blower starts at 110 and shuts off at 90.

In an ideal circumstance I think a digital temp on the exchanger along with a bigger blower with a manual speed control. Anyone do anything like this on here? Where is good place to start?

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

My stove is a US Stove American Harvest 6039. I am curious if it would be a little more efficient if there was more air going through the heat exchanger. I have the blower speed set all the way up at 9. I assume that the voltage would be 120 at the blower motor at this point, meaning its maxed out? I have not checked into anything yet as far as temperatures of the air coming out or the air coming off heat exchanger itself. I know the dist blower starts at 110 and shuts off at 90.

In an ideal circumstance I think a digital temp on the exchanger along with a bigger blower with a manual speed control. Anyone do anything like this on here? Where is good place to start?

You need to make certain whatever you do:

1: That you do not exceed the capability of your controller to handle the amperage that a higher capacity blower may consume (this will fry things on the controller).
2: That you do not operate the replacement blower under restricted air flow condition at its output (this will be indicated if the amperage being drawn exceeds the nominal value on the makers plate,blower burn out occurs under this condition if it is too much for too long, also see above).
3: Removing too much heat will cool the vent below creosote condensation temperature.
4: Under certain conditions the vent temperature can increase at this point you are moving the air through the heat exchanger too fast (back off as you are sending the heat up the flue).


Also pay attention to warranties, etc....

 

[ironpony]

My stove is a US Stove American Harvest 6039. I am curious if it would be a little more efficient if there was more air going through the heat exchanger. I have the blower speed set all the way up at 9. I assume that the voltage would be 120 at the blower motor at this point, meaning its maxed out? I have not checked into anything yet as far as temperatures of the air coming out or the air coming off heat exchanger itself. I know the dist blower starts at 110 and shuts off at 90.

In an ideal circumstance I think a digital temp on the exchanger along with a bigger blower with a manual speed control. Anyone do anything like this on here? Where is good place to start?

You need to make certain whatever you do:

1: That you do not exceed the capability of your controller to handle the amperage that a higher capacity blower may consume (this will fry things on the controller).
2: That you do not operate the replacement blower under restricted air flow condition at its output (this will be indicated if the amperage being drawn exceeds the nominal value on the makers plate,blower burn out occurs under this condition if it is too much for too long, also see above).
3: Removing too much heat will cool the vent below creosote condensation temperature.
4: Under certain conditions the vent temperature can increase at this point you are moving the air through the heat exchanger too fast (back off as you are sending the heat up the flue).


Also pay attention to warranties, etc....[/quote]


another words make sure you send in your dues to the forum leader

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

My stove is a US Stove American Harvest 6039. I am curious if it would be a little more efficient if there was more air going through the heat exchanger. I have the blower speed set all the way up at 9. I assume that the voltage would be 120 at the blower motor at this point, meaning its maxed out? I have not checked into anything yet as far as temperatures of the air coming out or the air coming off heat exchanger itself. I know the dist blower starts at 110 and shuts off at 90.

In an ideal circumstance I think a digital temp on the exchanger along with a bigger blower with a manual speed control. Anyone do anything like this on here? Where is good place to start?

You need to make certain whatever you do:

1: That you do not exceed the capability of your controller to handle the amperage that a higher capacity blower may consume (this will fry things on the controller).
2: That you do not operate the replacement blower under restricted air flow condition at its output (this will be indicated if the amperage being drawn exceeds the nominal value on the makers plate,blower burn out occurs under this condition if it is too much for too long, also see above).
3: Removing too much heat will cool the vent below creosote condensation temperature.
4: Under certain conditions the vent temperature can increase at this point you are moving the air through the heat exchanger too fast (back off as you are sending the heat up the flue).


Also pay attention to warranties, etc....

another words make sure you send in your dues to the forum leader

Nope just cover your hind end, no need taking it on the chin for something you can avoid.

 

[DexterDay]

More air through the exchanger, will result in lower temps. There is a line between to little and to much.

Many here measure convection air temps. Whether you use a Meat thermometer or a Thermocouple (I use a Cole Parmer). Gives me an idea on how "Hot" my pellets are.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

More air through the exchanger, will result in lower temps. There is a line between to little and to much.

Many here measure convection air temps. Whether you use a Meat thermometer or a Thermocouple (I use a Cole Parmer). Gives me an idea on how "Hot" my pellets are.

It may result in lower temperatures out of the convection system Dexter but do not confuse heat with temperature they are in fact two entirely different things.

The heat transfered is equal to the amount of air moved times the temperature difference between the output air of the convection system and the input air to the convection air system times an easily found constant for air.

So while the temp may drop a bit the CFM goes up and until you reach the point the vent temperature climbs you are extracting more heat from the stove.

 

[DexterDay]

More air through the exchanger, will result in lower temps. There is a line between to little and to much.

Many here measure convection air temps. Whether you use a Meat thermometer or a Thermocouple (I use a Cole Parmer). Gives me an idea on how "Hot" my pellets are.

It may result in lower temperatures out of the convection system Dexter but do not confuse heat with temperature they are in fact two entirely different things.

The heat transfered is equal to the amount of air moved times the temperature difference between the output air of the convection system and the input air to the convection air system times an easily found constant for air.

So while the temp may drop a bit the CFM goes up and until you reach the point the vent temperature climbs you are extracting more heat from the stove.

Right. I didnt elaborate any more, because you had covered what happens when the temps inside the stove get to cool. The heat still comes out of the stove and recycles the air in the home faster.

I guess I should have said more. The temps will be cooler (albeit you will still get heat) its what you do to the internals of the stove, when you extract to much heat out. Again, a fine line between needing more heat and robbing the stove of vital heat for proper operation. The stove can only produce so much heat.

Sorry if I was not clear enough. I have learned loads from you and have taken my wrongs.

 

[jtakeman]

I am a blower swapper! Worked wonders for me! I did it to lower the air temp from convection because of vents. My connected floor vents were getting to hot. I could afford them to be lower.

You'd need to watch the exhaust more so than convestion. Exhaust temp can't get too cool or something bad happens! As long as the exhaust temp stays relitive? The convection temp shouldn't matter to much, The air will be warmed and it will be warmer than the room. But if it is too cool for you all you need to do is restricked the intake a little or reduce the rpm. Your convestion temps will rise.

The biggest plus is air circulation. The air in the room/house will get turned over much faster. Someday I'll do some testing. But I need a few things to do it right. I want to monitor both convection and exhaust temps. I'll increase teh blower speed until I see the exhaust temp start to drop. Should give me a max speed for the blower at the perticular heat setting?

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

I am a blower swapper! Worked wonders for me! I did it to lower the air temp from convection because of vents. My connected floor vents were getting to hot. I could afford them to be lower.

You'd need to watch the exhaust more so than convestion. Exhaust temp can't get too cool or something bad happens! As long as the exhaust temp stays relitive? The convection temp shouldn't matter to much, The air will be warmed and it will be warmer than the room. But if it is too cool for you all you need to do is restricked the intake a little or reduce the rpm. Your convestion temps will rise.

The biggest plus is air circulation. The air in the room/house will get turned over much faster. Someday I'll do some testing. But I need a few things to do it right. I want to monitor both convection and exhaust temps. I'll increase teh blower speed until I see the exhaust temp start to drop. Should give me a max speed for the blower at the perticular heat setting?

Almost, until the temperature gets close to the condensation point of the bad things (trademark, service mark etc ....).

 

[jtakeman]

I am a blower swapper! Worked wonders for me! I did it to lower the air temp from convection because of vents. My connected floor vents were getting to hot. I could afford them to be lower.

You'd need to watch the exhaust more so than convestion. Exhaust temp can't get too cool or something bad happens! As long as the exhaust temp stays relitive? The convection temp shouldn't matter to much, The air will be warmed and it will be warmer than the room. But if it is too cool for you all you need to do is restricked the intake a little or reduce the rpm. Your convestion temps will rise.

The biggest plus is air circulation. The air in the room/house will get turned over much faster. Someday I'll do some testing. But I need a few things to do it right. I want to monitor both convection and exhaust temps. I'll increase teh blower speed until I see the exhaust temp start to drop. Should give me a max speed for the blower at the perticular heat setting?

Almost, until the temperature gets close to the condensation point of the bad things (trademark, service mark etc ....).

Thats the something bad I mentioned. Condensing the exhaust causes what??? A hint, It burns inside your vent pipe!

Can't give them all the answers, They need to figure some of this sheet on there own! NO?

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

I am a blower swapper! Worked wonders for me! I did it to lower the air temp from convection because of vents. My connected floor vents were getting to hot. I could afford them to be lower.

You'd need to watch the exhaust more so than convestion. Exhaust temp can't get too cool or something bad happens! As long as the exhaust temp stays relitive? The convection temp shouldn't matter to much, The air will be warmed and it will be warmer than the room. But if it is too cool for you all you need to do is restricked the intake a little or reduce the rpm. Your convestion temps will rise.

The biggest plus is air circulation. The air in the room/house will get turned over much faster. Someday I'll do some testing. But I need a few things to do it right. I want to monitor both convection and exhaust temps. I'll increase teh blower speed until I see the exhaust temp start to drop. Should give me a max speed for the blower at the perticular heat setting?

Almost, until the temperature gets close to the condensation point of the bad things (trademark, service mark etc ....).

Thats the something bad I mentioned. Condensing the exhaust causes what??? A hint, It burns inside your vent pipe!

Can't give them all the answers, They need to figure some of this sheet on there own! NO?

I refrain from comment at this time but if anyone says the stupid bear on hearth.com said to lower the flue temperature until the water started condensing it wasn't the stupid bear that said that, got it?

The stupid bear said where's the water, I'm thirsty.

 

[jtakeman]

I am a blower swapper! Worked wonders for me! I did it to lower the air temp from convection because of vents. My connected floor vents were getting to hot. I could afford them to be lower.

You'd need to watch the exhaust more so than convestion. Exhaust temp can't get too cool or something bad happens! As long as the exhaust temp stays relitive? The convection temp shouldn't matter to much, The air will be warmed and it will be warmer than the room. But if it is too cool for you all you need to do is restricked the intake a little or reduce the rpm. Your convestion temps will rise.

The biggest plus is air circulation. The air in the room/house will get turned over much faster. Someday I'll do some testing. But I need a few things to do it right. I want to monitor both convection and exhaust temps. I'll increase teh blower speed until I see the exhaust temp start to drop. Should give me a max speed for the blower at the perticular heat setting?

Almost, until the temperature gets close to the condensation point of the bad things (trademark, service mark etc ....).

Thats the something bad I mentioned. Condensing the exhaust causes what??? A hint, It burns inside your vent pipe!

Can't give them all the answers, They need to figure some of this sheet on there own! NO?

I refrain from comment at this time but if anyone says the stupid bear on hearth.com said to lower the flue temperature until the water started condensing it wasn't the stupid bear that said that, got it?

The stupid bear said where's the water, I'm thirsty.

Bear=Chicken??? :cheese:

The nasty c word? Wood stove burners dread it!

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Not chicken.

I'm well aware of that particular word, I try very hard to not let the tinkerer in me take over at times by just saying oh he!! go for it and see what happens.

Do the homework instead and abide by the number one law of safe burning.

When changing things that have fires in them and you are not certain about the impact don't do it.

 

[jtakeman]

Not chicken.

I'm well aware of that particular word, I try very hard to not let the tinkerer in me take over at times by just saying oh he!! go for it and see what happens.

Do the homework instead and abide by the number one law of safe burning.

When changing things that have fires in them and you are not certain about the impact don't do it.

Just teasing ya, Bear! We both know what were doing. And I am glad I bounced my stuff off you! Kept me in line. ;-)

The word is(I can't spell it for crying out loud!) Creasote??? I think that's it!

We all want the mod to be safe. You need to understand that one reaction does cause another(who was the fella that said that?). If you push the limit? You might not know it at first, But it could bite ya! Don't let the exhaust temp drop too much.

Back to your regularly scheduled program!

 

[snoops]

I imagine that magic temp where you get in trouble is different on every stove and every application? Don't want to get to crazy it just seems if I can run the dist blower on 9 with a low fire say a feed rate setting of 2, I should be able to run it on 13 when I go to 6. Problem is the setting can only go to 9. The top of the stove (right above the heat exchanger) is probably 50 degrees hotter on feed setting 6 verses 2, telling me the there is more heat in there not being transfered and my in opinion just wasted.

I think its time to order some digitial temp. gauges and just see where I m at. Is there a standard temp on a the vent side where you can say that pellet stove is in balance and is really happy and feels like it just got done with a yoga class and doesn't want to burn the owners house down because hes a slave driving pig and expects him run at 80,000 btu when hes only rated for 50,000?

 

[jtakeman]

I imagine that magic temp where you get in trouble is different on every stove and every application? Don't want to get to crazy it just seems if I can run the dist blower on 9 with a low fire say a feed rate setting of 2, I should be able to run it on 13 when I go to 6. Problem is the setting can only go to 9. The top of the stove (right above the heat exchanger) is probably 50 degrees hotter on feed setting 6 verses 2, telling me the there is more heat in there not being transfered and my in opinion just wasted.

I think its time to order some digitial temp. gauges and just see where I m at. Is there a standard temp on a the vent side where you can say that pellet stove is in balance and is really happy and feels like it just got done with a yoga class and doesn't want to burn the owners house down because hes a slave driving pig and expects him run at 80,000 btu when hes only rated for 50,000?

Don't know for sure. Not many of us have measured the exhaust vent temps. You'd need to drill a hole and use a thermal couple. I think the bixby's have a probe measuring exhaust temps, But never dug that far in. I just keep a keen eye on my vent pipe for the sticky black stuff. I doubled my blower size with no ill effects. You can probably up yours some. Just stating warnings because there could be side effects!