BIO 60 REFRACTORY

[91LMS]

last night I opened the secondary chamber door and my door refractory fell onto the floor! has anyone operated their boiler w/o it. have one ordered but will be a bit before I see it.

 

[Tennman]

All layers? I lost the top refractory layer years ago, but if you're down to metal I'd hold off. Steel's melting point is ~2600F. I'm seeing ~2200-2400F based on color out the nozzle. The door is cooled since one side of the door is ambient, but I'd worry the door would warp with no insulation. Bummer. How's the attachment studs. The ends of mine are pretty bad.

 

[Pat53]

I don't own one, but perhaps you could get a chunk of kaowool or something similar to stick in there?

Pat

 

[91LMS]

studs seem fine, even looks like the nuts will back off but haven't tried yet. only the top refractory layer broke and fell off. the insulation in the door seems unharmed. I measured 200-215 degree with a ir gun outside surface temp while running. that seemed to be the max, I was checking my flame/tweaking settings on a full reload (we were below 0 in the a.m. and high of 10 yesterday).

I ordered both refractory and insulation incase its damaged in the meantime. parts supplier advised operation w/o the refractory on the door would be ok.

 

[BoiledOver]

Are you guys speaking of the refractory in the door?

Seems like that would be an easy pour in place for anyone, just need to get the mix. I considered that for the Eko but decided to place a firebrick split in the line of fire to protect the door. Way easy to replace just a split.

 

[91LMS]

no this piece of refractory is the shape of the door, 1-1.25" thick and is bolted on. I have learned there is then insulation behind that.