bio mass 60 start up

[evamaxx]

i have my 1st fire tonight in new bio 60 usted small amount of wood 4 8-10 lb of dry oak flue driped water only warm to touch boiler only got to 158 degres no gasafacation wanted to make sure circ came on and heated garage only main circ came on at 145 and cycle was on off a lot ? was it not enough fuel talked to zennon at horizon he told to use the factory settings any body else had same problems? i want to start slow and ramp up to operating temp wile the learning the stove any help would be great thanks mark

 

[Fred61]

There can be a number of reasons for these symptoms. If you're sure your wood is dry (<20% moisture) then the next thing that produces these symptoms is high concentration of moisture in the refractory. Happens to most folks just lighting their first fire in this type of unit. Try again (several times) when you are able to monitor the progress.

 

[taxidermist]

i have my 1st fire tonight in new bio 60 usted small amount of wood 4 8-10 lb of dry oak flue driped water only warm to touch boiler only got to 158 degres no gasafacation wanted to make sure circ came on and heated garage only main circ came on at 145 and cycle was on off a lot ? was it not enough fuel talked to zennon at horizon he told to use the factory settings any body else had same problems? i want to start slow and ramp up to operating temp wile the learning the stove any help would be great thanks mark

bump your L setting to about 165* that way your pump will launch at a higher temp. What happens is you get to 145* your pump launches gives your boiler a slug of cooler water and bam it shuts the pump off. Where is your bypass valve set at?

Rob

 

[evamaxx]

bump your L setting to about 165* that way your pump will launch at a higher temp. What happens is you get to 145* your pump launches gives your boiler a slug of cooler water and bam it shuts the pump off. Where is your bypass valve set at?

Rob

by pass is 140 danfoss the lsetting is that the dial on front? set at 165 thanks ill try tomorrow mark

 

[mikefrommaine]

Turn the dial on the front to 190. Thats the set point for the boiler. 165 will have the fans turn off to often.

The pump launch temp from the factory is set to around 145 which leads to a lot of cycling of the pump. You can set it higher. I have mine set at 170.

 

[taxidermist]

Turn the dial on the front to 190. Thats the set point for the boiler. 165 will have the fans turn off to often.

The pump launch temp from the factory is set to around 145 which leads to a lot of cycling of the pump. You can set it higher. I have mine set at 170.

I too launch at 170 but for starters 165 is fine for a cold boiler first start up

 

[taxidermist]

by pass is 140 danfoss the lsetting is that the dial on front? set at 165 thanks ill try tomorrow mark

Mark, You should have a ball valve installed from your pipe coming out of your boiler to storage/house that bypasses and goes down to danfoss. If this is open all the way your boiler will go into idle way to fast. Start with it about half open and as the boiler heats up you can slowley move it to around 1/4 open.

Rob

 

[maple1]

Isn't there a newer Danfoss that doesn't require a bypass valve?

 

[Tennman]

Yes, on all said above. Rob helped me my first season controlling excess flow thru my Danfoss. I have one of the older Danfoss models and use a ball valve to choke the recirc flow. Make sure the first wood you place over the nozzle is maybe 6-8 smaller splits. I keep 1"x6" or 1"x4" boards that are rough cut to length (longer than the nozzle opening) and split them into about 1"-2" wide kindling with my splitting wedge to lay over the nozzle. In other words use smaller stuff to get a coal bed. If there are large air paths to get to the nozzle opening gassification is really compromised and gassification may not happen at all. I've started fires with logs too large on the bottom and come back later to see the FUEL light on due to lack of coals and large air paths. Really hard to get that necessary coal bed if there are several large pieces of wood over the nozzle. This morning I split about 3-4 boards into maybe 10 kindling splits, then ~4-5 logs that the ends where about credit card sized, then I go to my maybe ~6"x6" ends. All of these are longer than the nozzle opening. You will pick up how to stack your wood in the upper chamber also. I think the boiler is more sensitive to bridging without storage. When I'm able to burn continuous and hot I have less problems with bridging. At night now, I stack my wood so it only leans on one side of the boiler. For me this reduces the risk of bridging at 1 or 2 in the morning. If you can see down into the nozzle you don't have a good coal bed and you'll see some smoke. It's a habit now for me to often to look out at the flue stack for any hint of blue smoke. That's my clue to go check on her and typically stir the coals, any hint of smoke indicates something's not right. AND another component of this for me is our latitude in southern Tennessee being a milder climate which leads to idling when you don't have storage (which will be changing this summer). Long winded but I'll bet you never got a good coal bed. Congrats on your boiler pick. Once you get some experience you should be another pleased customer. Read the BioMass sticky also. Cheers

 

[evamaxx]

Yes, on all said above. Rob helped me my first season controlling excess flow thru my Danfoss. I have one of the older Danfoss models and use a ball valve to choke the recirc flow. Make sure the first wood you place over the nozzle is maybe 6-8 smaller splits. I keep 1"x6" or 1"x4" boards that are rough cut to length (longer than the nozzle opening) and split them into about 1"-2" wide kindling with my splitting wedge to lay over the nozzle. In other words use smaller stuff to get a coal bed. If there are large air paths to get to the nozzle opening gassification is really compromised and gassification may not happen at all. I've started fires with logs too large on the bottom and come back later to see the FUEL light on due to lack of coals and large air paths. Really hard to get that necessary coal bed if there are several large pieces of wood over the nozzle. This morning I split about 3-4 boards into maybe 10 kindling splits, then ~4-5 logs that the ends where about credit card sized, then I go to my maybe ~6"x6" ends. All of these are longer than the nozzle opening. You will pick up how to stack your wood in the upper chamber also. I think the boiler is more sensitive to bridging without storage. When I'm able to burn continuous and hot I have less problems with bridging. At night now, I stack my wood so it only leans on one side of the boiler. For me this reduces the risk of bridging at 1 or 2 in the morning. If you can see down into the nozzle you don't have a good coal bed and you'll see some smoke. It's a habit now for me to often to look out at the flue stack for any hint of blue smoke. That's my clue to go check on her and typically stir the coals, any hint of smoke indicates something's not right. AND another component of this for me is our latitude in southern Tennessee being a milder climate which leads to idling when you don't have storage (which will be changing this summer). Long winded but I'll bet you never got a good coal bed. Congrats on your boiler pick. Once you get some experience you should be another pleased customer. Read the BioMass sticky also. Cheers

hi every one i reat all set the pump launch 165 and dial 190 looks like its pumping out the heat now lots of gasafacation not on / off ive got some ele issues with house t stat but thats anouther time thanks alot mark