BK Ashford 30.2

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Jesepi

New Member
Nov 19, 2021
56
NW Pennsylvania
Ok I am looking for Ashford 30.2 owners with their experiances on the pros and cons of owening and operating this stove.
It is now on my finalist list.
 
Use the search function and type in Blaze King, there are yearly threads and thousands of posts.
 
I've had one. going on my 4th year now. The only problem i have had are the 1/4 20 bolts that hold the front assembly that includes the door were put in at the factory to short and two were stripped. Fortunately there was enough thread left that longer bolts were able to grab onto. I noticed some shims on the floor and during the investigation as to where they came from is when I found the bolt problem. Other than that, it's a great stove. I found it compares to my princess fairly close as far as burn times. It's more than enough stove for my house. A few minor maintenance details must be taken care of each year, I wouldn't have anything else
 
I've had one. going on my 4th year now. The only problem i have had are the 1/4 20 bolts that hold the front assembly that includes the door were put in at the factory to short and two were striped. Fortunately there was enough thread left that longer bolts were able to grab onto. I noticed some shims on the floor and and during the investigation as to where they came from is when I found the bolt problem. Other than that, its a great stove. I fund it compares to my princess fairly close as far as burn times. Its more than enough stove for my house. A few minor maintenance details must be taken care of each year, I wouldn't have anything else
Thank you ! Yeah im about ready to pull the string on this stove but will wait for more replies. Thanks much !
 
Got mine last year, had no real issues learning other than burn times vs size load to get 24hr burn. Really happy with this stove.
 
Pros:
  1. Super wide range of outputs. You can stuff it full, and then rip thru that entire load in 6 hours or stretch it beyond 30, at the turn of a knob.
  2. Low, slow, even heat, when I want it. I don't know of any other stove that comes close on pounds per hour slow burn rates.
  3. Predictability. I have a mark on my dial for 12 hours, another for 24 hours. When I set the dial to those marks, my stove is burned down to coals and read for reload at 12 or 24 hours, regardless of what's happening outside.
  4. Control. Even when I was running with 3x the maximum allowable draft spec, I could just turn it down, and it would obey. I hear horror stories of run-away stoves from other brands, due to people using poor loading techniques, too-small wood, turning down a few minutes too late... this is never an issue with BK.
  5. Ability to run wide open, all day every day, without concern. The BK's are self-regulating, they will not overfire, if properly set up. I don't know any other stove that has this ability, although I'm sure others will be along to name some.
Cons:
  1. A very few number of customers had an issue with a smoke smell from their Ashfords. More than dozen, less than two dozen, with nearly all of them occurring about three years ago. I don't know if there was a single cause of it, but it was definitely "a thing" of discussion on this forum. Seems like whatever it was has been resolved, as the new reports have definitely dwindled the last two years.
  2. If you have a strong draft, above the .06" WC max spec, and if you like to run the stove on very high settings for long periods, you may have some issues with fly ash clogging the combustor. This can be resolved by installing a key damper, to get your overdraft in check.
  3. You do have to replace the combustor every few years. For a few members, this is as soon 10,000 hours, although I presently have roughly double that on mine, and it's still doing it's job. Wood species, burn rate, and personal expectations all factor into frequency of replacement.
Honestly, if I was shopping for a new Ashford today, and couldn't have one, my second choice would be used Ashford, over any other new stove.
 
Got the ashford in 2019 our first wood stove; house is single level 2000 sqft open plan (built the house so energy efficient etc). We heat full time with it. Stove is great. We can cook ourselves out, or have the steady heat. Pretty easy to learn, and easily controllable. My winter temps are negatives to freezing and stove keeps up just fine. I burn mostly softwood and I’m easily able to get 12-16 hr burns, and 18-24 hr out of hardwood depending on how hard I push it. I’d say my one caveat which isn’t particular to the ashford but all cat stoves really is your wood HAS to be properly seasoned. It really doesn’t like unseasoned wood. As others mentioned the smoke/creo smell came up, I haven’t really noticed anything with mine. And my last piece of advice (which I’m sure you’ve already accounted for) is if you want flame shows all the time these stoves probably aren’t for you. Good luck!
 
Thank you all so much ! This is the feedback I am looking for. I'm about ready to pull the handle on this stove. Looking to pay for it wed or thurs. 3790.00 Delivery to inside my house and on my hearth pad is 4,000. I'm thinking thats the going rate ?
 
Thank you all so much ! This is the feedback I am looking for. I'm about ready to pull the handle on this stove. Looking to pay for it wed or thurs. 3790.00 Delivery to inside my house and on my hearth pad is 4,000. I'm thinking thats the going rate ?
Around here (Minnesota) the 30.2 is about 1k higher. In fact I have a quote for a 20.2 Sirocco which is less expensive than the Ashford. The quote is: Unit price $2473.72, Pedestal with ash pan $458.65, Black door with handles $433.33, Sub total $3365.00. Tax $281.87, Total $3647.57.
I dont remember what the exact prices were for the 30.2's since I was looking for a smaller unit. But I know the were at least a grand more and every dealer I contacted had basically the same price. Which told me they were all reading directly off the msrp sheet.
 
...my last piece of advice (which I’m sure you’ve already accounted for) is if you want flame shows all the time these stoves probably aren’t for you.
Great post, MMH. But this last point can be confusing for people who haven't run the stove. You can indeed have flame show all the time, just like any other stove. But you can also turn the stove down farther, to the point where it is a black box, beyond the range of those other stoves.
 
Great post, MMH. But this last point can be confusing for people who haven't run the stove. You can indeed have flame show all the time, just like any other stove. But you can also turn the stove down farther, to the point where it is a black box, beyond the range of those other stoves.
I am wondering what size hearth pad are you all using for the Ashford 30.2 ? I was told 54"x54". does it have to be that large ?
 
If I read the manual correctly, the following holds:

1. You need no R-value. Only a noncombustible top is needed if it sits on a combustible floor. E.g. a metal sheet would suffice
2. It needs to be extending 16" in the front, and 8" on each side, and underneath any chimney pipe (i.e. if you go 90 degree back to a
thimble thru the wall), and 2" besides such connector.

Given that the stove is 29.5" wide, adding 16" to the width equates to 45.5" if the stove is perfectly centered L/R.
The stove is 29 3/8" deep, plus 16" in front, plus 6" in the back, that adds up to 51 3/8".

This is all described on page 11 and 12 of the manual.
 
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I am wondering what size hearth pad are you all using for the Ashford 30.2 ? I was told 54"x54". does it have to be that large ?
This may be the nearest stock size that the dealer sells that meets the stove requirements. You could DIY smaller to meet the minimum requirements.
 
Pros:
  1. Super wide range of outputs. You can stuff it full, and then rip thru that entire load in 6 hours or stretch it beyond 30, at the turn of a knob.
  2. Low, slow, even heat, when I want it. I don't know of any other stove that comes close on pounds per hour slow burn rates.
  3. Predictability. I have a mark on my dial for 12 hours, another for 24 hours. When I set the dial to those marks, my stove is burned down to coals and read for reload at 12 or 24 hours, regardless of what's happening outside.
  4. Control. Even when I was running with 3x the maximum allowable draft spec, I could just turn it down, and it would obey. I hear horror stories of run-away stoves from other brands, due to people using poor loading techniques, too-small wood, turning down a few minutes too late... this is never an issue with BK.
  5. Ability to run wide open, all day every day, without concern. The BK's are self-regulating, they will not overfire, if properly set up. I don't know any other stove that has this ability, although I'm sure others will be along to name some.
Cons:
  1. A very few number of customers had an issue with a smoke smell from their Ashfords. More than dozen, less than two dozen, with nearly all of them occurring about three years ago. I don't know if there was a single cause of it, but it was definitely "a thing" of discussion on this forum. Seems like whatever it was has been resolved, as the new reports have definitely dwindled the last two years.
  2. If you have a strong draft, above the .06" WC max spec, and if you like to run the stove on very high settings for long periods, you may have some issues with fly ash clogging the combustor. This can be resolved by installing a key damper, to get your overdraft in check.
  3. You do have to replace the combustor every few years. For a few members, this is as soon 10,000 hours, although I presently have roughly double that on mine, and it's still doing it's job. Wood species, burn rate, and personal expectations all factor into frequency of replacement.
Honestly, if I was shopping for a new Ashford today, and couldn't have one, my second choice would be used Ashford, over any other new stove.
This is helpful. I am relatively new to the Blaze Kings, so I wanted to ask a question.

Is there such a thing as too much draft? Mine will be going in an existing fireplace, with about a 40-42 chimney (straight up). Should I be considering a damper for the stove?

Thanks.
 
Yes, there definitely is such a thing as too much draft. BKs are particular, but any stove might have an issue with a 40' flue system. It may take 2 dampers to tame the draft down, unless this area is a negative pressure zone.
 
The simple answer is "yes and yes".

Note that BK won't officially advise using a damper, because of some legalities. (So don't ask them - they'll be evasive.)
There are folks here running BKs with dampers on chimneys with too much draft, and they are very happy with them.

If you want to do things perfect, get a measurement of your draft. A Dwyer magnehelic gauge. Make sure you get one in the right pressure range (around 0.06 wc, I believe).
 
begreen and stoveliker already said it, but as someone with one of my two Ashfords running on a chimney with pretty offensively-high draft, perhaps I can add to it.

High draft will not create any control problem for the Ashford. Even with my 30 feet of pipe and 0.21" WC draft, I had no control issues. But you will suffer in both efficiency and with the amount of fly ash stirred up by the air wash system (keeps the glass clean), which will eventually plug your catalyst, if your draft is way over spec. It's best to install a key damper (or two) to get the draft in spec.

For the Ashford, unless they've recently changed it, 0.06"WC is maximum, and 0.05"WC is optimum. I assume "optimum" is the draft spec at which emissions or efficiency are optimized, but I don't recall seeing that defined int he manual. To track this, I second stoveliker's suggestion to install a magnehelic, plumbed into the pipe below the damper. Here's my rig:

IMG_1588.JPG
 
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Great post, MMH. But this last point can be confusing for people who haven't run the stove. You can indeed have flame show all the time, just like any other stove. But you can also turn the stove down farther, to the point where it is a black box, beyond the range of those other stoves.
Yes thank you. To rephrase I’d say you can have flames a blazin all the time or whenever you want but the sweet spots for these stoves are the low and slow, which is usually a black box, and boring to some.
 
I am wondering what size hearth pad are you all using for the Ashford 30.2 ? I was told 54"x54". does it have to be that large ?

The minimums are in the manual; as long as your meeting those your fine but you can do whatever you choose after that. People have done some pretty amazing hearths here. 74D029EA-A172-4E79-8EB1-2997277D2A5D.jpeg
 
Yes thank you. To rephrase I’d say you can have flames a blazin all the time or whenever you want but the sweet spots for these stoves are the low and slow, which is usually a black box, and boring to some.
You've based that conclusion on running your stove in your house, but it all depends on your heating needs and schedule, really. I will often run one of my Ashfords with flame the entire load, at least down to coals. The other is definitely in "black box" mode, because my heating needs in that wing of the house are much lower.

On cold days, when I am home and don't mind the extra reload cycle, I'll rip a full load with the air control wide open. Our two members in Fairbanks report doing this daily, during their cold spells. You'd better believe there's excellent flame show the whole time, at that setting! ==c
 
begreen and stoveliker already said it, but as someone with one of my two Ashfords running on a chimney with pretty offensively-high draft, perhaps I can add to it.

High draft will not create any control problem for the Ashford. Even with my 30 feet of pipe and 0.21" WC draft, I had no control issues. But you will suffer in both efficiency and with the amount of fly ash stirred up by the air wash system (keeps the glass clean), which will eventually plug your catalyst, if your draft is way over spec. It's best to install a key damper (or two) to get the draft in spec.

For the Ashford, unless they've recently changed it, 0.06"WC is maximum, and 0.05"WC is optimum. I assume "optimum" is the draft spec at which emissions or efficiency are optimized, but I don't recall seeing that defined int he manual. To track this, I second stoveliker's suggestion to install a magnehelic, plumbed into the pipe below the damper. Here's my rig:

View attachment 299195
Great, thank you for this. So if I have the option of running the pipe straight, or adding an elbow, in theory going with the elbow should reduce the draft, right?
 
Great, thank you for this. So if I have the option of running the pipe straight, or adding an elbow, in theory going with the elbow should reduce the draft, right?
Elbow will reduce draft, yes. Rule of thumb is something like an effective reduction of 3 feet of chimney for each 90° elbow (or is that "pair" of elbows, @begreen?). The second rule of thumb is you want that elbow as high off the stove as is practical.

I'm guessing you don't want to slam an elbow right onto the stove collar, if you can avoid it, even of your ultimate goal is reducing draft. @BKVP may have some insight on that, but based on things I've seen him say in the past, I think they aim to get the elbow at least 30" above the stove collar. There may be an exception in your case, if your goal is to intentionally reduce draft, but there may be other factors involved.
 
The simple answer is "yes and yes".

Note that BK won't officially advise using a damper, because of some legalities. (So don't ask them - they'll be evasive.)
There are folks here running BKs with dampers on chimneys with too much draft, and they are very happy with them.

If you want to do things perfect, get a measurement of your draft. A Dwyer magnehelic gauge. Make sure you get one in the right pressure range (around 0.06 wc, I believe).
We are not being evasive. EPA's New Source Performance Standards 2015, specifically state "it is illegal to install a wood heater in any manner other than the way it was tested". This is very clear wording.
 
Elbow will reduce draft, yes. Rule of thumb is something like an effective reduction of 3 feet of chimney for each 90° elbow (or is that "pair" of elbows, @begreen?). The second rule of thumb is you want that elbow as high off the stove as is practical.

I'm guessing you don't want to slam an elbow right onto the stove collar, if you can avoid it, even of your ultimate goal is reducing draft. @BKVP may have some insight on that, but based on things I've seen him say in the past, I think they aim to get the elbow at least 30" above the stove collar. There may be an exception in your case, if your goal is to intentionally reduce draft, but there may be other factors involved.
No elbows is best. But if any offset is necessary, furthest from the stove is best. You nailed it @Ashful