BK door gaskets

[RustyShackleford]

I need to replace the door gasket and the window gasket on my stove. The door gasket is straightforward enough, but I'm slightly anxious about the window gasket and wonder if anyone here has replaced theirs and can advise. It's an adhesive-backed piece that you form around the edge of the glass, before clamping it back to the door. I'm wondering how to deal with where the gasket material may bunch up at the corners when its folded into the u-channel shape (to fit around the edge of the glass). Should I cut notches there ? Also, it sounds like the brackets that hold the glass to the door are attached to studs on the door frame. I'm concerned that the nuts will be frozen and studs might shear off when I try to remove them. Maybe I worry too much ?

 

[Ashful]

I've always been surprised by how easily nuts and bolts come loose, even on my 20 year old stoves. Things you would think should be rusted / frozen solid, never seem to be much trouble. If it's something I know I'll be doing, I do soak with liquid wrench or PB blaster for a day or three in advance, but even when I don't get to do that...

On the gasket, call BK support, and then post back here? Might help another BK owner in the future.

 

[HotCoals]

Have not heard about a bad window gasket.
How old is yours and how did you know it was bad?

 

[RustyShackleford]

How old is yours and how did you know it was bad?

Five years old. Actually a gap of about 1" length has appeared at one of the corners, and there is discoloration of the glass near there (so I know it is leaking). My burn times are fine, but I know Chris is always encouraging us to be very diligent about leaks in that area (being able to cause premature combustor failure). Honestly, I suspect it is a manufacturing defect.

 

[Highbeam]

The door glass gaskets on both of my stoves wrap around the edge as you describe. They appear to be bunched in the corner vs. cut. Also, the clamping plates aren't clamping directly in the corner but only for a distance on each edge. The hope is that the glass flexes a little and the corner bunch compresses enough to hold everything tight.

The studs for the glass clamp nuts are buried under the door gasket. One of mine is obviously not tightened and I would love to snug it up, hopefully it's not ruined from BK, but I am not ready to replace the door gasket so I wait.

How did you know your door gasket is bad? Or is it the glass gasket and since you must remove the door gasket anyway you'll just replace?

 

[HotCoals]

Five years old. Actually a gap of about 1" length has appeared at one of the corners, and there is discoloration of the glass near there (so I know it is leaking). My burn times are fine, but I know Chris is always encouraging us to be very diligent about leaks in that area (being able to cause premature combustor failure). Honestly, I suspect it is a manufacturing defect.

Ok Rusty,I'll follow this thread to the end to see how it comes out!

 

[RustyShackleford]

The door glass gaskets on both of my stoves wrap around the edge as you describe. They appear to be bunched in the corner vs. cut. Also, the clamping plates aren't clamping directly in the corner but only for a distance on each edge. The hope is that the glass flexes a little and the corner bunch compresses enough to hold everything tight.

Yes, I took a closer look and noticed that too. So it's not a problem on the inner side of the glass, but might be on the outer (the edge that seals against the door frame).

The studs for the glass clamp nuts are buried under the door gasket. One of mine is obviously not tightened and I would love to snug it up, hopefully it's not ruined from BK, but I am not ready to replace the door gasket so I wait.

Talked to someone at BK who said yes, those studs break off sometimes, and you just have to take it to a shop and get it spot-welded back on. Keeping fingers crossed ...

How did you know your door gasket is bad? Or is it the glass gasket and since you must remove the door gasket anyway you'll just replace?

The door gasket was starting to fail the dollar-bill test, especially near the hinge (since you can tighten the door latch to snug up the fit on that side, but it doesn't pull it any tighter near the hinge). But it's much more the glass gasket that worries me, as it's very obviously leaking.

 

[HotCoals]

I almost forgot .
I replaced my door gasket last year.
What I did was just to place it in the grove trying not to stretch it any except foe some at the corners.
I did not glue it in and it does not fall out on me.
A few times since I have replaced it I take a old ice pick and fluff it up ..sometimes just in palaces where I think it might mot be sealing really good.
maybe I just have too much time on my hands but it seems to work well for me. I have even flipped it around once.

 

[RustyShackleford]

I replaced my door gasket last year.
What I did was just to place it in the grove trying not to stretch it any except foe some at the corners.
I did not glue it in and it does not fall out on me.

Wow, I guess that answers the question of how much gasket cement is needed - not much.

 

[HotCoals]

Wow, I guess that answers the question of how much gasket cement is needed - not much.

Well that's just the way I did it..your millage may very. lol

 

[Highbeam]

Well that's just the way I did it..your millage may very. lol

Your stove is a 2010 so was this a different stove or did you already have to replace it, then fluff it, then flip it in the last 4 years? I've never thought much of the gasket system on the BK. The englander with its flat seal seems much easier to "get right".

 

[jeff_t]

Did you find high density gasket, Rusty?

 

[RustyShackleford]

Did you find high density gasket, Rusty?

I got whatever the BK dealer sold me. It is "item #0186, Blaze King 7/8" Black Gasket". Not sure how to tell if it's the "high density", but if it isn't I guess I'll just have to replace it sooner. The fact it had "BK" in the part name and came from a BK dealer gives me optimism.

 

[jeff_t]

There's a huge difference from the average Rutland gasket. The high density stuff is hard to find except from BK.

 

[HotCoals]

Your stove is a 2010 so was this a different stove or did you already have to replace it, then fluff it, then flip it in the last 4 years? I've never thought much of the gasket system on the BK. The englander with its flat seal seems much easier to "get right".

Its the 2010 that I have now. Mines white compared to the black gasket Rusty is talking about.
Pretty sure the original one was white also.The one that came with just seemed to flatten out fast,didn't try to fluff or flip that one.
The more I think about it it was two seasons ago that I changed it out. Pretty sure the one have now is not high density either.
I believe I bought it where I bought stove though.

I think it did come from BK though. I remember being not happy that i had to drive the 45 mins to my dealer because they would not drop ship here at my house but yet i had to pay6 the shipping to the store.EDIT: Nope..that was the cat gasket deal. Pretty sure I did buy the door gasket local..it's hell to get old..lol.

 

[RustyShackleford]

Its the 2010 that I have now. Mines white compared to the black gasket Rusty is talking about.
Pretty sure the original one was white also.The one that came with just seemed to flatten out fast,didn't try to fluff or flip that one.

The 0186 part I got has a white inner-core and a dark-grey outer. The original gasket does appear to be much lighter in color; it seems to have served pretty well for these 5 years, and I might not bother to replace it yet were it not necessary to remove it to replace the window gasket (which most definitely is faulty). I wish BKVP would chime in and clear up the confusion on this.

 

[BKVP]

Its the 2010 that I have now. Mines white compared to the black gasket Rusty is talking about.
Pretty sure the original one was white also.The one that came with just seemed to flatten out fast,didn't try to fluff or flip that one.
The more I think about it it was two seasons ago that I changed it out. Pretty sure the one have now is not high density either.
I believe I bought it where I bought stove though.

I think it did come from BK though. I remember being not happy that i had to drive the 45 mins to my dealer because they would not drop ship here at my house but yet i had to pay6 the shipping to the store.EDIT: Nope..that was the cat gasket deal. Pretty sure I did buy the door gasket local..it's hell to get old..lol.

Well the game is almost over so let me clarify a few issues. First, as the VP of the company, I can attest to the fact that we have drop shipped parts orders placed by the dealer direct to consumers for 18 years. (Not stoves) If your dealer told you otherwise, please have them call us in the future.

Second, we purchase our High Density door gasket from MidMountain Rope and Gasket. We don't make much on the gasket, so I am happy to share the name of our supplier. Yes, it is more costly than the less dense product, but it works.

The glass gasket requires no adhesive glues as they are sent as a peel of tape. Studs do break occasionally and the OP may be the guy that spoke with someone in my staff today and she provided full details (as most of you have done here as well) for replacement process and cautions.

I would encourage folks to call us anytime as we stand ready to help with these types of topics and of course my brethren here at Hearth.com are always helpful.

Back to the game...Come on Romo!
http://www.draftinducers.com/ad1.htm

 

[BrotherBart]

So much for Romo.

 

[RustyShackleford]

... we purchase our High Density door gasket from MidMountain Rope and Gasket. We don't make much on the gasket, so I am happy to share the name of our supplier. Yes, it is more costly than the less dense product, but it works.

Any idea if the 0186 part that the BK dealer shipped me (white inner core, dark grey outer) would be this good stuff ?

The glass gasket requires no adhesive glues as they are sent as a peel of tape.

Do you recommend notching the tape at the corners so it won't bunch up (when you fold it over the edge of the glass into a "U" shape), or will it squeeze flat when the glass is bolted back in ?

Thanks.

 

[BKVP]

So much for Romo.

yup.

 

[BKVP]

Any idea if the 0186 part that the BK dealer shipped me (white inner core, dark grey outer) would be this good stuff ?

Do you recommend notching the tape at the corners so it won't bunch up (when you fold it over the edge of the glass into a "U" shape), or will it squeeze flat when the glass is bolted back in ?

Thanks.

We have an entire door department. They told my staff person today and related to the caller to pull slightly on the gasket as you approach the corners. They do not cut them and thinning it out a bit with tension has proven to work fine for a couple of decades.

Your gasket sound correct as well.

 

[RustyShackleford]

We have an entire door department.

Sounds like there's a knack to it.

 

[RustyShackleford]

So, I've finished this job (replacing gaskets for window glass and door seal on a Princess PE1006) and have a few tips for the next guy ...

1. Used part "0186 Blaze King 7/8" black gasket" for the door seal, and "ME-301B gasket window channel tape Meecos Red Devil", 6 feet of each.

2. I removed the door - takes about 3 seconds - and laid it on a table.

3. My concern about removing the nuts holding the window glass were unfounded. The torque required did not make me at all nervous that the studs would break off. You need a 3/8" socket wrench, no extensions.

4. You can then pull off the four pieces which hold the glass in and clean 'em up real purty with a wire brush on an electric drill. And clean the glass, at least well enough to make sure the channel gasket sticks well.

5. I was concerned about getting the gasket on the edge of the glass properly, centered so it folds down an equal amount on each side of the glass. That was not too hard, because the gasket actually is thinner and woven differently in the middle third, so it's fairly easy to get it right. I decided to make the joint (between the two ends of the piece of gasket tape) in the middle along the bottom edge, instead of at a corner; I thought it'd be easier to get the ends tight together, but the factory didn't do it that way I don't think, so maybe it was a mistake. My concerns about it lying flat at the corners were also unfounded, it squished down just fine. I tried the thing BKVP said about stretching it a little at the corners, but there really wasn't much "give", but like I said, it seems fine.

6. I took some care to get the glass centered over the cutout in the door. The pieces that hold it in don't give much wiggle room, but they do a little.

7. The door seal gasket was pretty straightforward. I made the seam in one of the corners, but I kinda wish I'd done it along one of the edges instead (like I did with the window). I'm afraid I have kind of a thin spot at the corner where the seam is now.

Hope this helps. Hope I still feel like I did a good job whenever I fire the stove up again (it's 60-something outside now).

 

[HotCoals]

So you did glue your door gasket in?
Good info. Thanks for sharing.

 

[RustyShackleford]

So you did glue your door gasket in?

Yup. Used "Meecos Red Devil Gasketing Cement and Stove Sealer". Pretty runny stuff. I also used it to seal where a piece of Elmer's pipe wouldn't really plug all the way into another piece, so there were air gaps where the male end was crimped.

(Which I did because Elmer's quality control sucks ass: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/elmers-pipe.61751/).