I picked up a BK Princess Insert exactly three years ago. It was purchased used, but previously uninstalled. We've run the stove 24-7 through the winter months for three seasons now. I figured that preventively I should do some maintenance this season, so I ordered a new cat (haven't experienced decline in this one, but when it does I'll be ready), as well as a new door gasket. I installed the gasket and now it seems that some air is sneaking in around the latch. Yesterday during a reload, when I opened up the thermostat I could see a streak of flames coming from the latch area. I've looked online and it appears that there is a new (flat) latch, and older (round) latch. I've got the round latch, which has been ground down some from opening/closing. I did the dollar bill test upon reinstalling the gasket and the paper is nice and tight top and bottom (probably can't pull it out without ripping), but seems loose on the latch side. I'm wondering if the latch being ground down some is the root of my issues, or if the gasket install was a miss. The latch is definitely ground down some and no longer perfectly round. Should I replace the latch? If so, should I go with the new, flat latch, or the older, round latch?
BK Princess Insert latch questions
- Thread starter gastone21
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It doesn’t matter that the round latch is worn. That’s not the problem. It is adjustable and you can upgrade to the flat style but it’s more involved than you might think.
Try adjusting the tension, it needs to be leak free.
When setting the new gasket in that deep bed of rtv you need to not stretch or twist the gasket.
Try adjusting the tension, it needs to be leak free.
When setting the new gasket in that deep bed of rtv you need to not stretch or twist the gasket.
Adjusting the tension it is. I've got .a few days as the temps are climbing back up into the high sixties, low seventies.
I'd be ready to fab a new one when you adjust it. The threads on mine were pretty spalled and I it sheared off when I tried to loosen it. I ended up cutting the head off a bolt and bending a new latch which has been on there for 3 years so far. Bolts seem to be harder than the original latch as it is slowly wearing out the handle portion of the latch. Which I'll probably replace the whole deal in the spring.
So the deal with upgrading to the new latch is that you need both a new door side bolt and handle side latch. They're different than the old ones. Not a big deal. The bigger deal and what I think is the bigger upgrade is that the new flat latch uses two loose nuts. One inside the firebox and one on the outside so you can adjust the tension with infinite precision instead of full turns.
What this means is that you'll need to grind out the old welded in interior nut that is often the cause for buggered threads on the latch bolt. It's not a lot of fun to grind inside a firebox. You may be able to reuse the old welded in nut inside the firebox.
Either way, use antiseize and do your best to clean the firebox threads before running the bolt full of carbon into the nut. Rock the bolt to work it in slowly. Use a box end wrench.
Be glad that your leak isn't on the latch side.
What this means is that you'll need to grind out the old welded in interior nut that is often the cause for buggered threads on the latch bolt. It's not a lot of fun to grind inside a firebox. You may be able to reuse the old welded in nut inside the firebox.
Either way, use antiseize and do your best to clean the firebox threads before running the bolt full of carbon into the nut. Rock the bolt to work it in slowly. Use a box end wrench.
Be glad that your leak isn't on the latch side.
Tightened the latch... to no avail. The dollar bill slips out no problem. Top and bottom of the door are tight as can be. I must have stretched the gasket by the latch during install. Next question, I've got some leftover gasket. Can I just cut out the portion by the door where, and fab in a new stretch of rope or should I just order a new gasket and start from go?
Did you lay down the proper deep bed of rtv under the gasket? Some folks use barely any or this watery junk but Bk chose to put the huge glass bolts under the gasket so you need tons of rtv.
The last time I did it I know I used at least 1 full 3 oz tube of ultra copper. It's not just for adhesive but to actually forms a thick gasket between those huge window studs rather than having the rope gasket rise and fall over them.
In your shoes, if the gasket doesn't look stretched, I would consider pulling out the gasket on the latch side, putting in more RTV, and resetting the rope higher using the door frame, a fully loosened door latch and not completely latching the door shut. Just enough to bed the gasket.
A common mistake I see is people using their fingers to push the gasket into the RTV which spooges the RTV out of place where it needs to be thick between those dang nuts and studs for the glass.
The cost of another whole tube of rtv is like 7$. New gasket is like 30$.
I would not cut in a chunk of leftover gasket.
In your shoes, if the gasket doesn't look stretched, I would consider pulling out the gasket on the latch side, putting in more RTV, and resetting the rope higher using the door frame, a fully loosened door latch and not completely latching the door shut. Just enough to bed the gasket.
A common mistake I see is people using their fingers to push the gasket into the RTV which spooges the RTV out of place where it needs to be thick between those dang nuts and studs for the glass.
The cost of another whole tube of rtv is like 7$. New gasket is like 30$.
I would not cut in a chunk of leftover gasket.
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