I don’t remember. This was over two years ago. If there was a price difference, it wasn’t a lot at the time. I went with paint and I’m very happy.
Blaze King Ashford enamel vs paint finish
- Thread starter dafattkidd
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Enamel is a premium finish. I don't know about with the Ashford, but with other stoves it's usually hundreds more.
I know I'm late to this thread by a few months. Can confirm, it's roughly a $700 price difference between the flat black and the brown enamel - and roughly $200 between black and cast grey - which I assume is painted.
I just placed an order for an Ashford 30.2 in the enameled chestnut brown - it's such a beautiful finish. Can't wait to use it this fall and winter!
Beautiful stove! Just ordered mine in the same color. Hope the finish is still holding up!
stoveliker
Minister of Fire
Congrats on a fantastic stove !
I hope you have wood ready to go, as in already stacked for ayear (or two if it's oak). Otherwise this coming winter might be a huge disappointment.
If not, get.pine now. That'll be good next winter if split and stacked off the ground, and too covered now.
Or buy a pallet of biobricks.
I hope you have wood ready to go, as in already stacked for ayear (or two if it's oak). Otherwise this coming winter might be a huge disappointment.
If not, get.pine now. That'll be good next winter if split and stacked off the ground, and too covered now.
Or buy a pallet of biobricks.
Thank you!
I'm currently under construction, cabin is on a wooded lot so my builder has saved the trees that were cut down during site prep. I'll have a ton of work ahead of me to cut, split and stack for proper seasoning.
I'm in a rural area, so there is always firewood for sale. I'll have to buy enough already seasoned wood for the first couple of years. I know many times sellers will falsely say their wood is seasoned. Is the best way to confirm this to bring a moisture meter (are they even accurate)? Any other pointers when buying wood?
Thanks!
stoveliker
Minister of Fire
Yes, a moisture meter, and a splitting axe as you should measure on the inside of the wood they try to sell you. So split it and measure with the pins deep in and parallel to the grain.
Ask the seller how long it's been split. Then ask them what the moisture content is. And then measure. In that order... It'll tell you who is selling hot air (or water, in this case) and who is honest and a keeper.
Pine and fir.can be okay in a year. Maple, cherry two, oak best at three.
So I would buy two years at least, now, one year if which should be quick drying wood, one medium. And get.your own wood up for the third year.
In a pinch the biobricks are great. There is a review on this forum at some place.
Ask the seller how long it's been split. Then ask them what the moisture content is. And then measure. In that order... It'll tell you who is selling hot air (or water, in this case) and who is honest and a keeper.
Pine and fir.can be okay in a year. Maple, cherry two, oak best at three.
So I would buy two years at least, now, one year if which should be quick drying wood, one medium. And get.your own wood up for the third year.
In a pinch the biobricks are great. There is a review on this forum at some place.
Many wood sellers count seasoning from the time the tree was felled. That is a false assumption. The wood really starts drying once it has been split. For sellers, that often is last week. We have a couple of local wood sellers that keep on posting shots of their moisture meter with prongs stuck in the end grain. I have corrected them and they act like that can't be true. When in doubt, RTFM.
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