Blaze King door handle

[sacountry]

Just wondering if anyone has ever had their Blaze King door handle start to seize up? It's not the adjustable latch, its the hinge where that handle meets the door. Mine has become incredible stiff and squeals when I try to open the stove. It's annoying and requires a far amount of force to open.

I was thinking about applying some 3:1 oil or something similar, but figured it's better to ask this crew first.

 

[armanidog]

Graphite lube may be better than oil with the heat. You can buy some at an auto parts store

 

[marty319]

Anti seize

 

[moresnow]

This is a brand new stove correct? The handle should not be giving you fits. Chat with your dealer so they are aware of the issue. Before you gook up the assembly.

 

[snojetter]

Yes, I had it happen to my Princess a couple seasons ago. That was after 5 season of use. I used Permatex anti-seize and it's been cured since.

 

[marty319]

This is a brand new stove correct? The handle should not be giving you fits. Chat with your dealer so they are aware of the issue. Before you gook up the assembly.

My brand new osburn 2300 did this last year.i was using wd40.the response from sbi was DO not use that or the door handle will seize right up.anyways I started using anti seize once a month and all was good.my friend has the regency 3100 and he had issues as well until he used the anti seize

 

[sacountry]

This is a brand new stove correct? The handle should not be giving you fits. Chat with your dealer so they are aware of the issue. Before you gook up the assembly.

Yep brand new. Been using it steady for over a month now. I'm surprised to be dealing with this so early on.

I assume the heat of the stove has caused some expansion in the handle hinge. I haven't looked at closely to see if there is some sort of set screw or other type of adjustment. My first thought, as any normal guy might think, is lube it up.

 

[clancey]

My if you have to do that with a brand new stove or even later stoves--what good are they? clancey

 

[BKVP]

First, tell the dealer. He can order the replacement handle under warranty.

If you wish to try to work on it, there are two allen head bolts under the door rope gasket holding the nose block (part the handle runs through) to the door frame. You can gently roll back the door gasket and see the two bolts. NO NEED TO REMOVE GASKET. Just to get a peek. Then using an allen wrench with the ball end, remove the two bolts. The entire assembly will come off the door frame. You may choose to do this so as to make handling it easier and not take a chance to breaking the glass in the door frame.

You will see a roll-pin in the handle. You can knock it out with a small punch or a nail (cut the point off the nail to not expand roll-pin).

Once you have the roll-pin out, you can pull the shaft of the handle out of the nose block. We use dissimilar metals to avoid this very issue. You may be able to use a small abrasive file, Scotchbrite or other material to clean up the fit and then lubricate with anti-seize. Reassemble.

I apologize for the issue. I had a buddy about 6 years ago with a cabin across a lake in Alaska. I was in his cabin and he pointed out the problem you are having. We fixed it in about 30 minutes. That's how I learned about the nail as a punch with the point cut off.

 

[sacountry]

First, tell the dealer. He can order the replacement handle under warranty.

If you wish to try to work on it, there are two allen head bolts under the door rope gasket holding the nose block (part the handle runs through) to the door frame. You can gently roll back the door gasket and see the two bolts. NO NEED TO REMOVE GASKET. Just to get a peek. Then using an allen wrench with the ball end, remove the two bolts. The entire assembly will come off the door frame. You may choose to do this so as to make handling it easier and not take a chance to breaking the glass in the door frame.

You will see a roll-pin in the handle. You can knock it out with a small punch or a nail (cut the point off the nail to not expand roll-pin).

Once you have the roll-pin out, you can pull the shaft of the handle out of the nose block. We use dissimilar metals to avoid this very issue. You may be able to use a small abrasive file, Scotchbrite or other material to clean up the fit and then lubricate with anti-seize. Reassemble.

I apologize for the issue. I had a buddy about 6 years ago with a cabin across a lake in Alaska. I was in his cabin and he pointed out the problem you are having. We fixed it in about 30 minutes. That's how I learned about the nail as a punch with the point cut off.

Thanks for the tips. I was able to fix it. The only flaw is the allan wrench, there was not enough clearance on this newer model between the screws and the metal trough that holds the braided rope. I debated shaving a 1/4" off one allan wrench but I was able to wrench them off with small channel locks. Then had to apply a little PB Blaster to the pin for the flat tipped nail to pop it out (good tip using a nail). A little more PB Blaster to get the seized housing knuckle off the handle. A little work with the orbital sander on the handle, some anti seize, and now shes back to show room ready. Hoping this is the only issue I run into with this stove.