Fire goes out when door is latched - Ashford 30

[mjtang]

Hi all,

I’ve had my eye on the Blaze King Ashford 30 for a long time. My brother has the insert version – it is an amazing product. I purchased the wood stove version from Hearthworks in MA recently and their installation crew came last week and installed it along with a new stainless-steel 6 inch liner. @BKVP

I can get it going easy with the door cracked – bypass open, thermostat on high. But after I latch the door shut, the fire immediately starts to go out – no flame at all. Again, this is with the bypass open and on high. When I crack open the door again, there is a “whoosh” of air, and a puff of smoke and flames shoot out the crack as if the fire was suffocated and is igniting rapidly again.

I’ve seen this stove in operation many times. I know the flame is smaller and the logs glow. But this isn’t that – the flame is completely gone right away with the bypass still open. It basically feels like it is getting zero air once I latch the door shut.

Any ideas? I’m talking to installer as well, but I don’t know how many of these they have done (I think they assume the flame is just smaller and I’m not used to it, but that’s not it). The installer says my draft is good - new 6 inch stainless liner was installed as well. All the wood I burn is at 17% or below.

I’ve been saving up for this stove for years. I have an open concept house with the stove right at the center. I have 8 cords of super dry ash ready to go. I don’t want to use a drop of oil this winter if I don't have to. Needless to say, any help would be appreciated.

Thanks so much,

Mike

 

[begreen]

Is the fire being started with the bypass open?

How is the wood moisture being checked? End grain or splitting the wood in half and then testing in the middle of the freshly exposed wood?
Describe the flue setup on the stove from stovetop to chimney cap, including any turns and the total length.

 

[mjtang]

Is the fire being started with the bypass open?

How is the wood moisture being checked? End grain or splitting the wood in half and then testing in the middle of the freshly exposed wood?
Describe the flue setup on the stove from stovetop to chimney cap, including any turns and the total length.

Yes - bypass is open and thermostat is on high. It goes out so fast I don't get to the point of closing the bypass. This is my second stove with a cat. My first was a federal airtight so maybe not much of a comparison.

Wood is definitely not the issue. Split and tested in the middle with a moisture meter. Everything is 17 percent or below. All my wood is ash and has been stacked off the ground with a metal roof for a year. (I take my wood drying very seriously!)

Attaching photos. It starts with a three-foot rise to a 90 degree into the stainless-steel liner T, then straight up. So, two 90 degree turns then roughly 25-30 feet up and out. Liner is in the house until the very end. There is a cap with a spark arrestor (also pictured). Blaze King has been very responsive in helping me try and figure things out. Here is what I already know from them:

• That first 90-degree elbow should be two 45s instead
• The spark arrestor can be finicky, but the installer assured me it was clear.

I’m working on getting the two above items addressed.

My draft appears to be ok. Obviously, this is per the installer. But with the door cracked and how dry the wood is it lights up very fast.

Really appreciate the response and any advice.

 

[Tron]

First thing I'd check is whether the thermostat is actually wide open or if it is stuck.
On the upside, looks like your stove is tight and has no leaks.

 

[begreen]

Kudos for doing a good job with the wood. The draft should be checked with a manometer or magnahelic. If the outside temps are mild, draft can be poor. Is the stainless liner insulated?

Also, the suggestion to make sure the thermostat is working correctly is a good one. Years back there were a few that got out where is it was working backward IIRC.

 

[begreen]

Looking a the temps for Ipswich, it looks like it's still quite warm. That is definitely going to weaken draft. There will be a notable improvement between 55º nighttime temps and 45º.

 

[Montanalocal]

“I can get it going easy with the door cracked – bypass open, thermostat on high. But after I latch the door shut, the fire immediately starts to go out – no flame at all. Again, this is with the bypass open and on high. When I crack open the door again, there is a “whoosh” of air, and a puff of smoke and flames shoot out the crack as if the fire was suffocated and is igniting rapidly again.”

This is normal, with a cold start. I have had the whoosh and air/smoke rush out.

This is because there is not a good hot coal bed established to start the load like there is with a hot load.

What you want to do is to recreate the situation of a hot reload, a good hot bed of coals that you can reload in on top of, which starts the spits quickly and which you can then close the door and set the thermostat.

To get a good hot bed of coals going in a cold start, you do not want to start with a full load. What you want is a smaller load that starts and fires up quicker than a full load will. So what I do is put only one layer of splits down, and then small sticks across that, and then small chips on top of that. Paper on top and light up. The key is to let it get going good with the door cracked open. The thermostat does not let enough air in to get this going good. So keep the door cracked open until this is down to a good bed of coals. Then you can load a normal load of spits in, and still keep the door cracked open until everything is going good. Then you can close the door with the thermostat wide open, until you have a good fire going, and you can set the thermostat back to where you want it.

 

[Tron]

This is normal, with a cold start.

To get a good hot bed of coals going in a cold start, you do not want to start with a full load. What you want is a smaller load that starts and fires up quicker than a full load will. So what I do is put only one layer of splits down, and then small sticks across that, and then small chips on top of that. Paper on top and light up. The key is to let it get going good with the door cracked open. The thermostat does not let enough air in to get this going good.

Sorry, but that is BS.
I oftentimes do cold starts, and all that is needed is a full load of wood and a firestarter. Door closed, bypass and thermostat open. After 10 minutes I have a raging fire and the cat is approaching active status. The thermostat lets in more than enough air, there is no need to keep the door cracked open.
And that's even with outside temperatures around 60F.

 

[bigealta]

25-30 ft. indoor chimney. That should be pulling like a freight train. But it's still summer (almost) so yes draft will be weaker.

I'm gonna question your wood. That wood looks very fresh to me. 17% could be 20 -21% if you sink the meter pins in deeply. But that should burn better than you have described.

You must 100% rule out the wood....... as what you described is, in 95% of the cases, a not seasoned enough wood situation.

If wood is indeed very good, Then i'd be thinking blockage of either intake air or exhaust. That spark arrestor could be hindering the flow, we can't see it in the pic. Also as others said confirming the thermostat is working properly is called for. Then there are the oddball things like packing materials left somewhere in the stove or birds nests, bugs, crimped pipe, etc. in the liner.

 

[GG Woody]

I don't have my Blaze King yet, but is it easy enough to get access to the intake damper (thermostatically controlled) and verify that it is opening up when you are on high?
There are some great videos on YouTube that have cut away models that show how these work.

 

[mjtang]

Update: @Tron was 100 percent correct (and others who pointed it out as well). The thermostat was stuck. Thank you very much. What a relief.

Blaze King was super responsive yesterday. We went through everything similar to the thoughts here. They had me take the back cover off and I realized it was stuck. Moved the thermostat a few times and it seemed to fall into place. I should note - I did exactly what Blaze King instructed. I'd reach out to them before doing anything - I wouldn't just pop it off.

But I will note to any future Blaze King owners who think this may be an issue: I'm realizing now that when the thermostat is operating correctly, when you close it (turning it to as low as it gets), it makes a little "clink" noise as it shuts and the metal hits the metal. This wasn't happening before. So that's something to listen for.

This was my first post on Hearth.com. Needless to say it was helpful. Thanks to everyone that commented.

It was warm here yesterday as others have noted. Didn't care that is was 80 in my house for a while, though, because I was watching that sweet dancing flame (see photo). Got a five hour burn without even trying (just a few medium logs).

Looking forward to the cold.

 

[bigealta]

Excellent that looks Awesome.

If i ever replace my f400, that stove is at the top of my list.

 

[begreen]

Sorry, but that is BS.
I oftentimes do cold starts, and all that is needed is a full load of wood and a firestarter. Door closed, bypass and thermostat open. After 10 minutes I have a raging fire and the cat is approaching active status. The thermostat lets in more than enough air, there is no need to keep the door cracked open.
And that's even with outside temperatures around 60F.

Draft can vary a lot depending on the installation and even the location geography.

 

[stoveliker]

Great you got it solved.

Do let us know how it goes when it gets colder

But you may want a few fires now with the windows open to cure the paint and get rid of the stink.

 

[ratsrepus]

Sorry, but that is BS.
I oftentimes do cold starts, and all that is needed is a full load of wood and a firestarter. Door closed, bypass and thermostat open. After 10 minutes I have a raging fire and the cat is approaching active status. The thermostat lets in more than enough air, there is no need to keep the door cracked open.
And that's even with outside temperatures around 60F.

I second the BS. mine takes off great with the door closed and thermostat open. My guess is that the stat is stuck shut. take it off and check

 

[10tapper]

Update: @Tron was 100 percent correct (and others who pointed it out as well). The thermostat was stuck. Thank you very much. What a relief.

Blaze King was super responsive yesterday. We went through everything similar to the thoughts here. They had me take the back cover off and I realized it was stuck. Moved the thermostat a few times and it seemed to fall into place. I should note - I did exactly what Blaze King instructed. I'd reach out to them before doing anything - I wouldn't just pop it off.

But I will note to any future Blaze King owners who think this may be an issue: I'm realizing now that when the thermostat is operating correctly, when you close it (turning it to as low as it gets), it makes a little "clink" noise as it shuts and the metal hits the metal. This wasn't happening before. So that's something to listen for.

This was my first post on Hearth.com. Needless to say it was helpful. Thanks to everyone that commented.

It was warm here yesterday as others have noted. Didn't care that is was 80 in my house for a while, though, because I was watching that sweet dancing flame (see photo). Got a five hour burn without even trying (just a few medium logs).

Looking forward to the cold.

View attachment 330280

Glad you have it figured out, nice setup you have there.