Blaze King King...connector pipe damper or no?

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Manatarms

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Sep 11, 2009
70
Northern NJ
Getting ready to purchase the pipe and chimney (DVL to Duravent) for the new BKK. I was wondering if I should use the DVL 8" damper. Combined height of the pipe and chimney will be about 21 feet, straght up through cathedral ceiling (14 feet to the ceiling and about 7 feet of chimney)

advice?

thanks,

Mark
 
I wouldn't. You should have plenty of control since cat stoves can be shut down more than non cats.
 
Bud you gotta lot of fun toys! Not to change the subjest but how do you like the Dolmar?

09 Kubota M59, Hydraulic Thumb, front and rear aux, little orange toolbox.
8’ Ford 917 Flail Mower - not running yet
Huskee 35 ton log splitter
Dolmar PS-5100s 18”
Stihl MS-441 20” and 25”
Makita DCS-6401..upgraded to 79cc
Polaris Sportsman 850XP EPS
Polar Trailer 1500 HD Tandem (LOVE this little trailer)
1 Catahoula Bulldog and a pit bull or two
 
Lanning,

I like the 5100 quite a bit, light and zippy. The 6401/7900 is my favorite multi-purpose. The saw isn't really much heavier but it's got tons of grunt.

-Mark
 
Lanning,

The saw was a retired home depot special Makita DCS6401. I bought the OEM Dolmar pison and cylinder from Bailey's (not the 84cc BB kit). The BB kits was less expensive, but I wanted to go OEM. I've been REALLY happy with the 79cc upgrade. The saw just came alive and it is a major jump in power compared to the 5100. I haven't done any timed cut comparisons or the like between the "7900" and the stihl 441, but I would definatly say the 7900 is noticeably stronger.

All in all the Bailey's 6401 with 20" bar and chain to 84cc upgrade for $600 is a fantastic deal. However, I think I would probably go for the Solo 681 at that point and get 81cc and a 2 year warranty. the only downside is no local dealer support, but if you have a backup saw...

-Mark
 
On the damper subject I have and older BKK without a cat and I'm pretty sure I should definately put the in pipe damper in since all I have to control the air flow is the small thermostat adjustmant on the back. Input?
 
Manatarms said:
Lanning,

The saw was a retired home depot special Makita DCS6401. I bought the OEM Dolmar pison and cylinder from Bailey's (not the 84cc BB kit). The BB kits was less expensive, but I wanted to go OEM. I've been REALLY happy with the 79cc upgrade. The saw just came alive and it is a major jump in power compared to the 5100. I haven't done any timed cut comparisons or the like between the "7900" and the stihl 441, but I would definatly say the 7900 is noticeably stronger.

All in all the Bailey's 6401 with 20" bar and chain to 84cc upgrade for $600 is a fantastic deal. However, I think I would probably go for the Solo 681 at that point and get 81cc and a 2 year warranty. the only downside is no local dealer support, but if you have a backup saw...

-Mark
I found a used 6401 for sale at Home Depot with 18 rents for $180. The guys is doing a compresion test and am waiting for the numbers. What kind of numbers are you looking for?
 
Manatarms said:
Getting ready to purchase the pipe and chimney (DVL to Duravent) for the new BKK. I was wondering if I should use the DVL 8" damper. Combined height of the pipe and chimney will be about 21 feet, straght up through cathedral ceiling (14 feet to the ceiling and about 7 feet of chimney)

advice?

thanks,

Mark
Hi Manatarms,
My Blaze King works differently than other stoves.I'm only seeing steam or vapor coming out of my chimney which suggests the chimney is not that hot.Putting a damper in may cool the chimney even more which may cause it to ice up in real cold temps.This stove doesn't need a damper it has good shut down control if needed.
 
Thanks Rich!

Rich L said:
Manatarms said:
Getting ready to purchase the pipe and chimney (DVL to Duravent) for the new BKK. I was wondering if I should use the DVL 8" damper. Combined height of the pipe and chimney will be about 21 feet, straght up through cathedral ceiling (14 feet to the ceiling and about 7 feet of chimney)

advice?

thanks,

Mark
Hi Manatarms,
My Blaze King works differently than other stoves.I'm only seeing steam or vapor coming out of my chimney which suggests the chimney is not that hot.Putting a damper in may cool the chimney even more which may cause it to ice up in real cold temps.This stove doesn't need a damper it has good shut down control if needed.
 
Lanning,

Thats a good price. I would definately pick it up...hell, buy it for me and I'll pay you if you don't take it! If the saw runs I would guess the compression has to be better than 130. After my rebuild, I got about 150-155. If you're gonna replace the piston anyway, the compression on the 6401 shouldn't matter...assuming it is otherwise in good shape.

-Mark


Lanning said:
Manatarms said:
Lanning,

The saw was a retired home depot special Makita DCS6401. I bought the OEM Dolmar pison and cylinder from Bailey's (not the 84cc BB kit). The BB kits was less expensive, but I wanted to go OEM. I've been REALLY happy with the 79cc upgrade. The saw just came alive and it is a major jump in power compared to the 5100. I haven't done any timed cut comparisons or the like between the "7900" and the stihl 441, but I would definatly say the 7900 is noticeably stronger.

All in all the Bailey's 6401 with 20" bar and chain to 84cc upgrade for $600 is a fantastic deal. However, I think I would probably go for the Solo 681 at that point and get 81cc and a 2 year warranty. the only downside is no local dealer support, but if you have a backup saw...

-Mark
I found a used 6401 for sale at Home Depot with 18 rents for $180. The guys is doing a compresion test and am waiting for the numbers. What kind of numbers are you looking for?
 
Either of them appear to be good deals if you're going to swap the cylinder and piston. Don't forget you'll probably need a new chain...the home depot safety chain has to go.

If you decide to pull the trigger and get the Bailey's kit, make sure you get the ring compression tool they sell.....it's a inexpensive and a makes the job easy. If you're serious about buying them PM me.

-mark

Lanning said:
They have (2) 6401's, the other has 23 rents. Both saws came in at 135 on the compresion test. Both priced at $180.
 
If you have a thermostat like the new stoves have then I would think not. The thermostat should control the draft automatically.
 
The thermostat is just a small control on the backside of the stove and is not automatic or anything. Seems like it would be more of a secondary control to fine tune the fire. I can't ever imagine shutting that little damper and it actually putting out the fire.
 
thavg said:
The thermostat is just a small control on the backside of the stove and is not automatic or anything. Seems like it would be more of a secondary control to fine tune the fire. I can't ever imagine shutting that little damper and it actually putting out the fire.

It should still be thermostatic and it will snuff that fire out if your older door seal is up to par. What is the # of your older model.
 
my old king has a bimetallic coil and it automatically aadjusts that back flap depending on what level of heat you set it at
 
Forget the damper in the pipe. You will only spend extra money on the damper and ruin a section of pipe. When the cat is running, the smoke going up the stack is so cool that you will want the extra draft anyway.
Pull the cover off the middle-back- top of the stove, between the fans and you can see the intake flapper. If this opens and closes when you move the air knob from minimum to maximum setting, then you are good. If the bi-metalic coil that controls the flapper is broken, this flap will stay shut. This system is time proven and very reliable, one of the best features on the B-K, once you get accustomed to it you will never go back to a manual control stove.
Forget the old way of controlling the fire with constant adjustments of the air intake. This works so well that I cannot understand why others stoves do not use it. It is not expensive technology, the old Ashley sheet metal stoves were some of the cheapest stoves on the market, and they had it. Most sheetmetal convection stoves also had it (pre-epa) So I do not buy the excuse that automatic controlled intake is unreliable or too expensive. It works too darn good to be without it.
Sure, its kind of fun making adjustments to a fire, but after a while it gets old, especially if it is your only source of heat and you want to go do something else for awhile without nagging doubts about the stove running amuck.
 
Stockcarver and All:

Thanks for the advice! This forum is great!

-Mark
 
A damper on a self-adjusting system seems like a defeat of purpose but does a "stack robber" on a bkk do anything similar? It makes me think a robber may only add to the btu captured making a king an impressive unit......on paper. It still aint winnin any beauty contests.

I heard better burn at low settings, so I may be better off oversizing it and using an 8" pipe so it can really breathe if needed. Choking a cat-stove has never worked for me. Tis a recepie for a smoked up living room imo.

we like the parlors w/an ash drawer, but that's like basing a car purchase on the radio's performance.
 
im putting a dampner in my old Blaze king so i can shut that down better if theres a emergency, mines old and non cat.
 
stockcarver said:
Forget the damper in the pipe. You will only spend extra money on the damper and ruin a section of pipe. When the cat is running, the smoke going up the stack is so cool that you will want the extra draft anyway.
Pull the cover off the middle-back- top of the stove, between the fans and you can see the intake flapper. If this opens and closes when you move the air knob from minimum to maximum setting, then you are good. If the bi-metalic coil that controls the flapper is broken, this flap will stay shut. This system is time proven and very reliable, one of the best features on the B-K, once you get accustomed to it you will never go back to a manual control stove.
Forget the old way of controlling the fire with constant adjustments of the air intake. This works so well that I cannot understand why others stoves do not use it. It is not expensive technology, the old Ashley sheet metal stoves were some of the cheapest stoves on the market, and they had it. Most sheetmetal convection stoves also had it (pre-epa) So I do not buy the excuse that automatic controlled intake is unreliable or too expensive. It works too darn good to be without it.
Sure, its kind of fun making adjustments to a fire, but after a while it gets old, especially if it is your only source of heat and you want to go do something else for awhile without nagging doubts about the stove running amuck.

You know, the first woodstove I EVER had was one of those old Ashley's. Bought it for next-to-nothing at a "country
store" (this was over 30 years ago). The sheet metal was all rusted out, but the cast-iron top and bottom were fine.
Some sheet-metal shop actually made me a new sheet-metal "barrel", using two layers of heavier-guage steel than
the original, for something like $50 - more money than it is now, but still a steal, esp since they got the dimensions
right and the thing went back together with barely a hitch.

I was never impressed with the thermostatic air intake though. Seems like as soon as I got a hot fire going, the
thing would shut WAY down, and then the fire would kinda go out. Maybe my wood was too wet. I look forward
to the one in my new BK Princess working a lot better.
 
Sure, its kind of fun making adjustments to a fire, but after a while it gets old, especially if it is your only source of heat and you want to go do something else for awhile without nagging doubts about the stove running amuck.

Amen.
 
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