Blaze King Princess Insert - Inside Mount Adapter

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Wouldn't it also have to be in the fireplace and chimney that the insert was tested in?

Do all of the other labs test to ul standards of do they have their own?
No. The test is done a fireplace referenced in the standard.
Labs all use standards or methods as approved. So, for example, all labs us UL127. For emissions testing, they use B415.1-10, ASTM or EPA Method 28R.

The coolest standard/method the the Canadian P.4 for testing of gas hearth products. They meet every few years to update the standards and methodology. Works nice because it doesn't take an act of Congress as we say south of the border.
 
No. The test is done a fireplace referenced in the standard.
Labs all use standards or methods as approved. So, for example, all labs us UL127. For emissions testing, they use B415.1-10, ASTM or EPA Method 28R.

The coolest standard/method the the Canadian P.4 for testing of gas hearth products. They meet every few years to update the standards and methodology. Works nice because it doesn't take an act of Congress as we say south of the border.
So if you test in one fireplace how can you apply that to others which are built completely differently? Yes I know they use different standards for different aspects of testing. I was just asking if there were other approved standards similar to ul 127 or ul 1777. I had never heard of any and was just curious.

What standard is an insert in a prefab fireplace tested to just out of curiosity?
 
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Reading into BKVP's previous statement:
"...then all conditions established during the test for the factory built fireplace must then apply to all installations. "

It seems like the 'standard' FBF they test in has to be representative of all FBF's. I would make the following conjecture from the insert manufacturer's perspective: They ideally want it to work in any (reasonably sized) FBF before making a statement like "Approved for FBF installs." Making this statement, but then relying on the installer to double-check the FBF manual is not ideal. However, the stove manufacturer certainly can't supersede the FBF's manufacturer's advice and say the insert can go in anyway.

How do you do make sure you're representative of all FBF's? By ensuring your insert is less stressing than UL127. I really don't see any other way of accounting for all possible variations.
 
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Wondering the same. There are some cheap, contractor-grade zc fireplaces that just squeak by that spec.
 
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I contacted a test lab late yesterday. It has been proven by labs that the FBF wall temps are actually lower when an insert is placed into the FBF, than the wall temps when a wood fire is burned in the fireplace. It is actually stack temps that are elevated when a FBF has a solid fuel appliance installed. . The safety standards are UL 1482 and ULC-S628. 1482 does not directly address inserts, but is the most applicable standard, S628 specifically targets inserts.

Gas inserts are also often installed into FBF and there are ANSI standards used to test for that purpose.

As Bholler and I would agree, it all come down to a specific installation, no blanket statements. After all, even if a FBF states that wood or gas inserts may be installed into the fireplace, you should still confirm the FBF was installed correctly and has proper clearances.
 
I contacted a test lab late yesterday. It has been proven by labs that the FBF wall temps are actually lower when an insert is placed into the FBF, than the wall temps when a wood fire is burned in the fireplace. It is actually stack temps that are elevated when a FBF has a solid fuel appliance installed. . The safety standards are UL 1482 and ULC-S628. 1482 does not directly address inserts, but is the most applicable standard, S628 specifically targets inserts.

Gas inserts are also often installed into FBF and there are ANSI standards used to test for that purpose.

As Bholler and I would agree, it all come down to a specific installation, no blanket statements. After all, even if a FBF states that wood or gas inserts may be installed into the fireplace, you should still confirm the FBF was installed correctly and has proper clearances.

Very interesting. I really appreciate all the detailed responses. The above sounds like a good argument for getting an insulated liner, especially in a FBF!

The higher stack temperatures certainly make sense. Combustion is far cleaner and more efficient at high temperatures. It does make me all the more curious about a Blaze King product video I recently saw. The video states that stack temperatures are really cool, and shows the guy sticking his hand straight into a flue that has little cut outs - see video below.

To be honest, I'm more suspicious of the video -- gas typically can't burn you even if it's at fairly high temperatures. Plus that stack has to be sucking in plenty of cool air from the surroundings, due to the draft from the top 20 ft or so of the stack.

This video at 1:50:
)
 
Very interesting. I really appreciate all the detailed responses. The above sounds like a good argument for getting an insulated liner, especially in a FBF!

The higher stack temperatures certainly make sense. Combustion is far cleaner and more efficient at high temperatures. It does make me all the more curious about a Blaze King product video I recently saw. The video states that stack temperatures are really cool, and shows the guy sticking his hand straight into a flue that has little cut outs - see video below.

To be honest, I'm more suspicious of the video -- gas typically can't burn you even if it's at fairly high temperatures. Plus that stack has to be sucking in plenty of cool air from the surroundings, due to the draft from the top 20 ft or so of the stack.

This video at 1:50:
)

There are hundreds of”demo pipes” on our Stoves across North America. I have personally done this hundreds of times. Remember, the bypass is closed during the hand insertion. Stack temps are around 200-250F. You NEVER do this with the bypass open!
 
Wow that is very low temperature.

I hadn't considered how the bypass plays in here. I suppose the stove insert is tested under the most stressing scenario, which for stack temperatures would be with the bypass open, which would clearly get very hot compared to a FBF.
 
Wow that is very low temperature.

I hadn't considered how the bypass plays in here. I suppose the stove insert is tested under the most stressing scenario, which for stack temperatures would be with the bypass open, which would clearly get very hot compared to a FBF.
No the most stressing situation is a chimney fire.
 
There are hundreds of”demo pipes” on our Stoves across North America. I have personally done this hundreds of times. Remember, the bypass is closed during the hand insertion. Stack temps are around 200-250F. You NEVER do this with the bypass open!
At those temps arnt there problems with condensation and creosote buildup? Or are you doing it late in the burn?
 
Wow that is very low temperature.

I hadn't considered how the bypass plays in here. I suppose the stove insert is tested under the most stressing scenario, which for stack temperatures would be with the bypass open, which would clearly get very hot compared to a FBF.
I wish I could post pictures of safety tests! Stress is putting it mildly! We actually have to open the door incrementally until we hit peak temperatures. We toss in brands every 8 minutes. Brands are 1 x 1's stapled to look like waffles. We replicate worst case scenario. We run with cat in place, without it in place and also covered (simulate plugged cat).

I have said (written) this before. These tests are extensive and expensive due to all the possible configurations of "worst case".
 
At those temps arnt there problems with condensation and creosote buildup? Or are you doing it late in the burn?
You can do it anytime during the burn, just so long as the bypass is closed. I have done it on very high burn rates. But most often dealers demonstrate this on medium fires, because they try to keep glass clean as possible. As for chimney fires in demo pipes, never heard of one.
 
you should still confirm the FBF was installed correctly and has proper clearances.
This is almost always impossible without major demolition. Not too many people are ok with you destroying drywall, siding, and stone during an inspection. It would be better to just say it’s not approved in my opinion.
 
This is almost always impossible without major demolition. Not too many people are ok with you destroying drywall, siding, and stone during an inspection. It would be better to just say it’s not approved in my opinion.
Many dealers do suggest to owners they need to upgrade their fireplace. This entails, as you noted, a complete remodel.

We send lots of such inquires here to look at alcove applications. Better to have the full heater in the room anyway for heat transference.
 
You can do it anytime during the burn, just so long as the bypass is closed. I have done it on very high burn rates. But most often dealers demonstrate this on medium fires, because they try to keep glass clean as possible. As for chimney fires in demo pipes, never heard of one.
Well no I doubt there are many chimney fires in demo pipes. But if you are running 200 to 250 internal temp right above the stove there is no way you can be maintaining temps above the condensation point at the top of the chimney. That means creosote buildup. So if people burn their stoves like the demo they will have problems
 
Well no I doubt there are many chimney fires in demo pipes. But if you are running 200 to 250 internal temp right above the stove there is no way you can be maintaining temps above the condensation point at the top of the chimney. That means creosote buildup. So if people burn their stoves like the demo they will have problems
I don't believe there are any higher incidents of chimney fires in stoves based upon technology. As a whole, stoves today are vastly better. Industry experts are getting better at educating and sweeps (you) are the front line to informing people of the need to make changes to their burning habits/fuel when you inspect their chimneys.
 
I don't believe there are any higher incidents of chimney fires in stoves based upon technology. As a whole, stoves today are vastly better. Industry experts are getting better at educating and sweeps (you) are the front line to informing people of the need to make changes to their burning habits/fuel when you inspect their chimneys.
Yeah I never said there were more incidents of chimney fire based upon tech. Just that you can't routinely run a wood stove with exhaust temps at 200 to 250 right above the stove unless it is at the tail end of the fire. If you do this you will have big problems with creosote buildup.
 
Yeah I never said there were more incidents of chimney fire based upon tech. Just that you can't routinely run a wood stove with exhaust temps at 200 to 250 right above the stove unless it is at the tail end of the fire. If you do this you will have big problems with creosote buildup.
Operating temps and stack length go hand in hand to be certain as it would apply to accumulation.
 
Operating temps and stack length go hand in hand to be certain as it would apply to accumulation.
The stack length in this case should be a minimum of 15-16' with a certain amount of that stack exposed to cold outdoor temps. That guarantees creosote condensation, at least in the exposed portion of the stack . Last season folks running 200-250º stack temps on their BKs reported having messy chimneys and recommended to go no lower than 300º.
 
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MC plays a big role....
 
Many dealers do suggest to owners they need to upgrade their fireplace. This entails, as you noted, a complete remodel.

We send lots of such inquires here to look at alcove applications. Better to have the full heater in the room anyway for heat transference.
It’s hard enough to sell a $6K job to someone that’s trying to “save” money. Increase that to $10K + and it’s just not going to happen 99% of the time.
A new stove setup in a different location is always my first recommendation, but it’s not always an option.
 
MC plays a big role....
Even dry wood is going to be around 15-20% water. To keep creosote accumulation down, stack temps need to stay up until this moisture and volatiles are boiled off.
 
I’ve had a bunch of BKs, operated them all at low temps much of the time and never had any creosote worth talking about.. I do clean a few with similar setups that have ridiculous amounts of creosote. It all comes down to the wood that was being used and keeping the cat in the active zone.. keeping the cat active is often overlooked.
 
Both Diabel and bholler were reporting increased creosote accumulation in the thread last December with cat in the active zone. Stack length and exposure are another factor as well as outside temps.
 
Maybe they have the same wood quality issues that so many have trouble admitting to? With quality wood I haven’t ever experienced issues, nor have others I clean for or talk to..

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