Blaze King Ultra, bypass gasket frame

[RobH]

I just purchased an 7 year old Blaze King Ultra, the previous operator didn't understand it was a catalytic stove so he used it for 7 years, never closing the bypass door. I'm in the process of rebuilding the stove and have ordered new fans, rheostat for the fans, cat thermometer, door gasket and bypass gasket. I took the cat out and it is perfect condition, with the exception of 1 row of honey combs in the center is cracked (will I need a new cat?) other than that after vacuuming it looks brand new. Also, and this is probably a big one, the frame that hold the bypass gasket is pretty badly warped, I'll see how the new gasket fits when I get it but, I suspect that even if it seems good now it will wear out quickly. I tried hammering up on it but it didn't budge, I think I'll need to take it to a welder and have him heat it and straighten the gasket frame.

So, my question to all of you is. #1 Do I need a new combustor and #2 Can the bypass frame be straightened?

Thank you in advance

 

[Badger]

Rob,
Is the entire bypass frame bent or just the angle iron that runs across the center of it. I purchased a used princess last year that had a bent chunk of angle iron in the center, but the area where the gasket sat was straight as can be expected for sheet metal. I asked the guys on here and they claimed it wasn't unusual for that bar to warp.

Best of luck either way!

Andy

 

[RobH]

Rob,
Is the entire bypass frame bent or just the angle iron that runs across the center of it. I purchased a used princess last year that had a bent chunk of angle iron in the center, but the area where the gasket sat was straight as can be expected for sheet metal. I asked the guys on here and they claimed it wasn't unusual for that bar to warp.

Best of luck either way!

Andy

Yes it's the frame that the bypass gasket sits in. It,s warped about 3" long of the opening, so for example, if I put a light in the firebox, closed the bypass lid and looked through the top I would see about 3 inches of light shining through the opening of the bypass lid, what gasket was left is this very hard and brittle substance that is mostly gone in the warped section. When I dug out the channel I could tell the gasket was made of a similar materiel as the door gasket. I don't know anything about welding or steel but it seems to me a welder could take a torch to it, get it red hot and bend it back about 1/2" and it would be straight again in that 3" section. Sound like a plan?

Yes, the cross bar is warped also but that doesn't seem like it will be a problem as far as sealing anything off.

 

[BKVP]

The parts you are referring to is called bypass retainers. Comprised of four individual pieces, they are held in place by two stitch welds on each section. Total replacement time is about 20-30 minutes if you have a small angle grinder and a welder.

The other part, the bar stock that runs east to west is called (I can't tell you what we call it) but its role is to keep someone from shoving a piece of wood into the stove and preventing the bypass from closing. It is often slightly twisted when installed and is also replaceable....however doing so is cosmetic.

Call my offices in the a.m. and we will put you in touch with a dealer. They will order the parts for you and there will be no cost. Heck, you might even get to buy a grinder and welder with the savings you probably got in the stove purchase!

Chris

 

[fox9988]

How did the cat assembly get hot enough to warp if the stove was operated in bypass mode?

 

[SolarAndWood]

How did the cat assembly get hot enough to warp if the stove was operated in bypass mode?

4.3 cu ft box wet wood open door straight up 8" pipe...wood eventually dries.

 

[fox9988]

4.3 cu ft box wet wood open door straight up 8" pipe...wood eventually dries.

That would do it, but I would expect to see other damage/warping.

 

[SolarAndWood]

That steel box is pretty tough...big part of the reason I have one.

 

[RobH]

The parts you are referring to is called bypass retainers. Comprised of four individual pieces, they are held in place by two stitch welds on each section. Total replacement time is about 20-30 minutes if you have a small angle grinder and a welder.

The other part, the bar stock that runs east to west is called (I can't tell you what we call it) but its role is to keep someone from shoving a piece of wood into the stove and preventing the bypass from closing. It is often slightly twisted when installed and is also replaceable....however doing so is cosmetic.

Call my offices in the a.m. and we will put you in touch with a dealer. They will order the parts for you and there will be no cost. Heck, you might even get to buy a grinder and welder with the savings you probably got in the stove purchase!

Chris

Chris,

That is a very generous offer, what is your number?

I have a friend that is a welder I'm sure he can do this for me.

However, when I look at it I don't see it as 4 pieces it looks like a square frame, see attached. Maybe it will make more sense when I see the parts

Also, what do you think about the cat having a crack in one row, do I need to replace it?

It looks practically brand new to me, after all it was never used.

 

[RobH]

How did the cat assembly get hot enough to warp if the stove was operated in bypass mode?

The cat didn't get warped, the frame that holds the bypass gasket did. Imagine running the stove with the bypass open at all times then burning scrap wood like 2 x 4's and particle board. The stove got so hot that the inside single wall stove pipe got RED HOT. This guy was a real idiot!

 

[jeff_t]

It isn't quite as easy as Chris makes it sound, but it isn't too hard either. You do need to be flexible.

The biggest obstacle I had was finding a dealer to actually order the parts, even though I already had the part numbers. And I had to pay for them Good idea to get gaskets from BK. I had a hard time finding the right stuff.

I'd try the cat first. Only takes a couple days to get a new one if you need it.

 

[RobH]

It isn't quite as easy as Chris makes it sound, but it isn't too hard either. You do need to be flexible.

The biggest obstacle I had was finding a dealer to actually order the parts, even though I already had the part numbers. And I had to pay for them

I'd try the cat first. Only takes a couple days to get a new one if you need it.

I think the cat looks fine with the exception of the crack in that 1 row, other than that I'll give it a try for one season, I have a new cat gasket coming so I can put it back in.

It's the bypass frame I am concerned about, it's only warped down about 1/2" in one spot, I think I'll try heating it with a torch and pounding it back into shape, putting in the new gasket and see if I get a good seal on the bypass door. If I don't let that get red hot again it should hold. I plan on using the stove the correct way and by using the cat the heat will be directed to the front of the stove through the cat.

I have the exact same stove in my house for 5 years, this used one is for my 1,800 sq ft 2 story shop.

 

[jeff_t]

Yeah, it doesn't look too bad. The one I replaced was much more abused.

 

[BKVP]

I will bet you a steak dinner you did not flip the stove on it's top.....which would allow you to grind away the welds and weld new retainers in 20 minutes...Doing so makes the task much easier but does require all brick to be removed first. Blaze King's number is 509-522-2730 and we can get the parts on order just in case they are needed.

Chris

It isn't quite as easy as Chris makes it sound, but it isn't too hard either. You do need to be flexible.

The biggest obstacle I had was finding a dealer to actually order the parts, even though I already had the part numbers. And I had to pay for them Good idea to get gaskets from BK. I had a hard time finding the right stuff.

I'd try the cat first. Only takes a couple days to get a new one if you need it.

 

[Highbeam]

If I don't let that get red hot again it should hold. I plan on using the stove the correct way and by using the cat the heat will be directed to the front of the stove through the cat.

I used to get the non-cat's air tubes glowing red in my hearthstone but on the BK, I've never had anything but the cat glow. Even if the finished bypass gasket seal is not 100%, you will be much better than the previous operator who left the dang thing open all the time.

Bending that channel back will probably work if your man is good and heats the right places enough. Might be a lady welder too!. After all of that, the weld and the steel will be weaker and more prone to bending in the future, it's a pretty harsh environment. When he is beating on the channel with a hammer, be sure that he doesn't bend the whole dang cat chamber which might fix the gasket issue today but will make future replacement of the channel pieces much more difficult.

Flopping the stove on its top would be tough. Removing all the brick will likely result in some broken brick, that model will likely have two layers of brick on the bottom. Don't bend the sideshields as you go from upright to sideways.

 

[jeff_t]

I will bet you a steak dinner you did not flip the stove on it's top.....which would allow you to grind away the welds and weld new retainers in 20 minutes....

That would be easier. The one that is behind the cat housing still has to be tricky. And I didn't want to mess with the bricks.

I'll buy you a steak the next time I'm in Walla Walla

 

[RobH]

I will bet you a steak dinner you did not flip the stove on it's top.....which would allow you to grind away the welds and weld new retainers in 20 minutes...Doing so makes the task much easier but does require all brick to be removed first. Blaze King's number is 509-522-2730 and we can get the parts on order just in case they are needed.

Chris

Chris, Is there a way to get schematics on the inner workings of the bypass door and the combustor assembly? It will probably be a couple of weeks before I try to put this all back together and I have all these little pieces laying around, I suppose I'll remember how it all came apart, but a drawing or schematic would be wonderful if they are available?

 

[jeff_t]

There is a parts breakdown in the manual, and the brick layout if you decide to tip it over.

If you don't have it, (broken link removed to http://www.blazeking.com/EN/wood-manual.html)

 

[BKVP]

Thank you Jeff......

 

[begreen]

Great thread and thanks for the help Chris and Jeff.

 

[RobH]

There is a parts breakdown in the manual, and the brick layout if you decide to tip it over.

If you don't have it, (broken link removed to http://www.blazeking.com/EN/wood-manual.html)

Thanks Jeff that will help a lot.

 

[RobH]

The parts you are referring to is called bypass retainers. Comprised of four individual pieces, they are held in place by two stitch welds on each section. Total replacement time is about 20-30 minutes if you have a small angle grinder and a welder.

The other part, the bar stock that runs east to west is called (I can't tell you what we call it) but its role is to keep someone from shoving a piece of wood into the stove and preventing the bypass from closing. It is often slightly twisted when installed and is also replaceable....however doing so is cosmetic.

Call my offices in the a.m. and we will put you in touch with a dealer. They will order the parts for you and there will be no cost. Heck, you might even get to buy a grinder and welder with the savings you probably got in the stove purchase!

Chris

Chris, Hubert is asking for part numbers for the bypass retainers?

 

[BKVP]

I don't check posts daily so call me like last time at 509-522-2730.

Chris

Chris, Hubert is asking for part numbers for the bypass retainers?